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  #16  
Old 06-08-2010, 08:20 PM
1985 300D Turbo
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Florida
Posts: 628
OK so another dumb question.....should I keep the old one and have it rebuilt??? or just use it for the core? I found a place off sunbeam for electrial rebuilds...
http://www.vikingautoelectric.com/index.php?p=location
wonder if it is the bearings how hard it would be for them to replace??
probably much cheaper than a rebuilt one...

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  #17  
Old 06-08-2010, 08:21 PM
79Mercy's Avatar
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Location: Florida
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I would do whatever is cheaper, call them tomorrow and ask. Let me know, i might need them in the future.

I doubt replacing the bearings would be a fun job for a average guy, no pun intended.
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1985 300TD Turbo Euro-wagon
1979 280CE 225,200 miles
1985 300D Turbo 264,000 miles
1976 240D 190,000 miles
1979 300TD 220,000

GONE but not forgotten
1976 300D 195,300 miles
1983 300D Turbo 175,000 miles

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  #18  
Old 06-08-2010, 08:27 PM
1985 300D Turbo
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Florida
Posts: 628
I am less than average when it comes to mechanics...no harm no foul
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  #19  
Old 06-08-2010, 08:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by newtodiesel View Post
OK so another dumb question.....should I keep the old one and have it rebuilt???
Generally speaking, I would strongly recommend an overhaul from a local shop over a McParts store rebuilt model. A lot of the low-end rebuilds have received nothing more than new brushes and a fresh coat of cheap paint.

Either way, have the replacement alternator tested before you install it.

Considering that your alternator seized up, it might not be economically repairable. And it might not be acceptable as a core. But the local shop should be able to determine that pretty quickly.

Last edited by tangofox007; 06-08-2010 at 09:19 PM.
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  #20  
Old 06-08-2010, 10:26 PM
vstech's Avatar
DD MOD, HVAC,MCP,Mac,GMAC
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Mount Holly, NC
Posts: 27,018
since you already have new regulator in there, it won't hurt to get a price on replacing the bearings. they can test to see if it's destroyed or not. get a price, and have them do it.
you'd be hard pressed to get the pulley swapped yourself anyway. you need an impact wrench to do it.
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  #21  
Old 06-09-2010, 12:08 AM
Stevo's Avatar
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Who knows what caused the alternator to freeze up, old age maybe but one thing too keep in mind is, adjusting your belts on the looser side helps to not put undo strain on bearings.
My alt belt "squeals' a little when going through a big puddle on a rainy day, I probably should tighten it just a tad.
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1985 Euro 240D 5 spd 140K
1979 240D 5 spd, 40K on engine rebuild
1994 Dodge/Cummins, 5 spd, 121K
1964 Allice Chalmers D15 tractor
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"Lifes too short to drive a boring car"
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  #22  
Old 06-09-2010, 12:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by newtodiesel View Post
So am I right to think that the bearings froze on the altenator?
will check out nappa for the altenator
the ones on nappa site do not have pullys...can I re use mine?
Some Auto Part Places will change the Pulley for you if you buy the Alternator from them.

Also Harbor Freight sells a 12 Volt Impact Wrench that is mainly made for changing your Wheel Nuts or Bolts. On sale around $20 normal price around $30

However, it functions just about the same as a pneumatic Impact as far as what it can do.

Over the weekend I met up with one of our members and unscrewed the Prechamber Collars from his cracked Cylinder Head. The Prechamber Retaining Rings on the Aluminum Heads are more than 2x as wide and I could not get them out manually.
I use the 12 Voilt Impact to unscrew them.

I have one in each of my vehicles and it speeds up Tire Rotation when it is used for what it was made to do.
Attached Thumbnails
alternator burned up belts what to check-impact-wrench-1.jpg   alternator burned up belts what to check-impact-wrench-2.jpg   alternator burned up belts what to check-impact-wrench-3.jpg  
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  #23  
Old 06-09-2010, 12:46 AM
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I would go with the local starter rebuild shop. Mine had another alternator already on the shelf to sell me. I was in a pinch and bought one from pepboys... The pulley was a huge pita to remove. Nut would not come loose for nothing. The local rebuild shop would take care of the pulley issue for you.
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90 300TE
83 300SD
85 300TD
92 400E
85 190D

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  #24  
Old 06-09-2010, 01:32 AM
1985 300D Turbo
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Florida
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hhhmmmmm more fun tools!!!
how is that impact wrench powered? .....never mind re read it..
I have a harbor freight close by have not been there in a while
mite just ask the electrical guys do the pully if it can be repaired
the sad thing is that the belts looked like they were in good shape, not any more!
once I am able to get the thing out, prob be back tomorrow asking more questions
thanks all
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  #25  
Old 06-09-2010, 11:56 AM
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Goodluck...

Be prepared to be covered in oil up to your elbows. Just the nature of the beast.
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Past
95 E420
87 300D Turbo 5spd
90 300TE
83 300SD
85 300TD
92 400E
85 190D

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  #26  
Old 06-09-2010, 12:51 PM
1985 300D Turbo
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Florida
Posts: 628
which bolts to remove??
I have found a picture here
http://www.peachparts.com/Wikka/OM617AccessoryBelts
and have read it is easier to remove the bracket
so how many bolts are there?
haynes is not much help
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  #27  
Old 06-09-2010, 01:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by newtodiesel View Post
hhhmmmmm more fun tools!!!
how is that impact wrench powered? .....never mind re read it..
I have a harbor freight close by have not been there in a while
mite just ask the electrical guys do the pully if it can be repaired
the sad thing is that the belts looked like they were in good shape, not any more!
once I am able to get the thing out, prob be back tomorrow asking more questions
thanks all
Can clip it to your Car Battery or plug it into the Cigarette Lighter.

Belts, I had a 2 month old $35 Serpintine Belt get chewed up when a Plastic Belt Idler pulley came apart. Grieving over it did not help; but it still stick out in my memory.
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  #28  
Old 06-09-2010, 01:04 PM
vstech's Avatar
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on the back of the alternator there are 3 17 or 19mm bolts. (actually, one is a nut) loosen them well, and remove what you can.
it will fall out pretty easy.
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  #29  
Old 06-09-2010, 03:39 PM
1985 300D Turbo
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Florida
Posts: 628
how the heck do you get the top rear side bolt out?? It seems as tho it is binding...not much room in there to even get the tool to turn....facing the car which way do I turn the dang bolt...pull up? or push down? i AM TRYING TO GET IT REMOVED BY STANDING IN FRONT OF THE CAR ....hit the caps oops. pulling up it moves a little but seems like it is binding...push down will not turn it...got the bottom one out losened the adjuster bolt...the bolt I am having trouble with looks like it goes thru the bracket too not sure
@#$$#@@#$$$#^^%% ENOUGH CUSSING??!!!!!
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  #30  
Old 06-09-2010, 03:48 PM
ashedd's Avatar
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I am trying to envision which one your talking about. The adjustment thingy is attached to a bolt which has a nut on the back of the alternator. If you want that nut off you need to pull up to get it off... once it's off you can get that adjustment bolt out but it will be hung up on the adjustment "tab"... it can be convinced to come out. You may have to bend the tab a bit.

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Past
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87 300D Turbo 5spd
90 300TE
83 300SD
85 300TD
92 400E
85 190D

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