my engine started shaking 99 e300 - Page 2 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

TMAllison · #16 06-17-2010, 09:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by scottmcphee

crack the nut (ccw, lefty loosey) holding the injector line to the injector, back it off a turn or two, while the car is running... does car get worse or stay the same when doing this? same -> you found the bad injector cylinder
Re-tighten it, move on, one at a time.
If you found a bad one, remove the injector 27mm socket, and remove a good injector too. swap them. Re-run car, repeat the cracking on those two cylinders, one at a time. Which cyl is bad this time? Did it move with injector, or not?
The injector is slightly harder to remove than it is to re-install at the specified torque.
Get a couple injector crush washers when you do this, when you're done with the experiment, pull the old ones out of the holes and put new ones down before you put the injectors back in the way you want them.

The correct socket is ~3.5" long, thin walled, 22mm, having two vertical cuts in it to clear the return line barbs that fits down into the wells of the hemispherical head.....in short, its not as easy to do as it is on a 602, 603 or a 617.....much easier (and IMHO, appropriate) to check the motor mounts on a 606 first. They are a known issue.

darkostoj · #17 06-18-2010, 08:29 PM

i just finished the body work and started driving, its still doing the shaking. The engine seems to run smooth as glass. I'm thinking about maybe trying the mounts next. If I grab the engine and shake it, it wiggles around pretty good.

TMAllison · #18 06-18-2010, 08:33 PM

Do the isolating lift test if you dont' want to measure.

If you've had an accident they may have been torn during impact too. Might also want to check the trans mount at the same time.

darkostoj · #19 06-18-2010, 08:35 PM

it was a real real light hit, just cosmetic.

So When i jack it up slightly what should i be looking for to see if the mounts are good/bad?

TMAllison · #20 06-19-2010, 11:02 AM

The hunk of rubber between your floor jack and engine acts as the primary damper. If taking the weight up off the engine reduces the vib, your monuts can be assumed to be bad.

Remember not to lift more than 1/4". You can visually inspect the top of the drivers side mount for cracks and splits in the rubber at the sme time. Requires a flashlight and a mirror. Pass side is tougher to see.

Jeremy5848 · #21 06-19-2010, 11:39 AM

There should be threads in this forum with pictures of good and bad motor mounts so you can see what you are looking for. The search function will find them.

JimmyL · #22 06-19-2010, 01:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by darkostoj

it was a real real light hit, just cosmetic.

So When i jack it up slightly what should i be looking for to see if the mounts are good/bad?

Here are pics of my engine mounts, a good one and a used up one, for reference.....

darkostoj · #23 06-28-2010, 10:37 AM

well i just changed the motor mounts and the old ones i pulled out looked like new actually.

I just cracked the tops of all the fuel injectors to see if they were the problem but every injector made a significant difference in how the engine sounds

The engine shaking has gotten progressively worse and I really need to fix this.

whats the next thing I can check?

TMAllison · #24 06-28-2010, 11:26 AM

How was the trans mount?

Did you fix the tensioner?

What is your idle rpm when the shaking begins?

darkostoj · #25 06-28-2010, 11:32 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TMAllison

How was the trans mount?

Did you fix the tensioner?

What is your idle rpm when the shaking begins?

I did not replace the trans mount.

I havent changed the tensioner yet, i wanted to get the engine shaking problem figured out first

the idle speed has always been the same. It shakes just about all the time at idle now, and its gotten worse.

TMAllison · #26 06-29-2010, 12:55 AM

Did you check the trans mount for wear? Its 10-11 y/o now too.

Concerning idle, what would "always the same be"?

A bad tensioner "system" can create a lot of vibration. If its not the mounts, usually that only leaves the damper shock, the spring, or a bad bearing in an accessory device as the culprit.

Drop tension on the spring, check all pulleys that move by hand (i.e.: WP/fan, roller pulley, Alt, PS and AC clutch) for good bearings. Then fire it up with no tension. Note differences.

glenlloyd · #27 08-06-2010, 02:35 PM

Any update on this situation?

steve a

darkostoj · #28 08-06-2010, 02:48 PM

its still doing it, and i've just about given up. The check engine light came on a day ago so i'm going to run a scanner on it and see what it tells me.