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  #16  
Old 08-30-2010, 12:09 AM
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Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Cape Cod Massachusetts
Posts: 1,427
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Originally Posted by funola View Post
You are separating a ball joint taper correct? I usually rig up an anvil of sorts to support the lower control arm, with the nut on the stud ( to protect and not mushroom the stud), hit it with a 5 lb hammer and it always separate. I don't like to use pickle forks becasue it chews up the boot.
The problem is that the LCA's tapered receiver end when still connected to the spindle is actually inside the "cup" of the spindle where it's all but impossible to get an anvil inside and then to simultaneously strike the side 180 degrees opposite!

Fortunately the factory tool makes this part of the operation literally a one minute task!

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  #17  
Old 08-30-2010, 12:22 AM
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Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Columbia, MO
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Originally Posted by Billybob View Post
The problem is that the LCA's tapered receiver end when still connected to the spindle is actually inside the "cup" of the spindle where it's all but impossible to get an anvil inside and then to simultaneously strike the side 180 degrees opposite!

Fortunately the factory tool makes this part of the operation literally a one minute task!
Agreed. I didn't find anything easy about getting a hammer in there. I didn't have the factory tool, so that was out. However, I didn't have to worry about the ball joint boot since I replaced the ball joint.
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  #18  
Old 08-30-2010, 12:32 AM
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Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Cape Cod Massachusetts
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Originally Posted by tankowner View Post
Agreed. I didn't find anything easy about getting a hammer in there. I didn't have the factory tool, so that was out. However, I didn't have to worry about the ball joint boot since I replaced the ball joint.
Yeah absolutely! I think most of the time that's the circumstance where someone is doing this to replace the ball joint so destroying it the process isn't a concern.

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