While I had plans to modify the intake to take Fram WA8039 washable Air Filter I had not planned to do this soon. The job started with me only wanting to replace the Turbo Charger Drain Seals and at the same time flatten out my Oil Pan that the Previous Owner dented by Jacking up the Engine there.

While I was dealing with the Turbo Drain I realized that the Breather Drain was also leaking Oil.

However, when I tried to remove it I found that a Bracket prevented the Drain Tube from being removed being removed and that the upper Nut and Bolt that held the Bracken on were Frozen and had a rounded off Nut on it.

This necessitated the removal of the Turbo. To allow me to use my first time ever use of an External Ezee Outs on the Rounded bolt; it worked fine.

Having the Blow By Drain Tube off reminded me that if I did my Air Filter Mod I that there was a good chance I would have to change the Blow By Drain System.

The area between the Turbo Drain Tube and the Blow By Drain Tube is extremely cramped so I felt that since I had all that stuff off and had bought the Air Filter about 2 weeks previously I decided to do the Air Filter Mod.

With the exception of having to drive around to several Hardware stores for the ABS plumbing parts the Air Filter Intake was relatively easy.; and, I found that the ID of the Air Filter Gripped tightly around the 4”to 2”ABS Reducer Bushing and that connected to a 2” 90 degree Elbow with a short piece of 2” straight pipe on it.
A 2” Hub-less Rubber Sleeve with Hose Clamps had to be shortened a little but worked fine to attach the Intake to the Turbo.

It turned out that deciding which way to go to make another Breather and how I was going to get it to fit was the hard part.
I knew that I wanted a larger Breather and started off trying to use a 4” by 12” section of ABS with end caps on it. But, I decided that it did not fit well and mounting and setting up the Drain would be more difficult; partly due to the Turbo being under that area.
So I decided to stick with the Stock Breather Drain to save me any plumbing issues.

(I also thought about turning the complete Air Filter Housing into a Breather but decided not to as I would have to do some cutting on it.)
So I came up with the idea of using the Cookie Can as a housing for the Breather. This allowed me to use the Stock Breather Drain.
I also needed to pipe the Blow By into the Air filter Intake and did that with a Plastic Nipple held in with JB Weld.

What was accomplished:
I had previously been using a K&N Air Filter (that fit the stock Federal Air Filter Housing) because the Oil from the Blow By was soaking the stock Air Filter Element and shortening the life of it. With the K&N that uses Oil anyway I felt it would continue working and remain usable.

Everyone claims the K&N does not filter well and you need to clean and recharge it with Oil which is an additional expense.

So a possible replacement came along with the Fram Washable Air Filters (I also bought one that is a direct fit for my Van and modified the Volvo for the WA8039 washable Air Filter). It has the good filtration of the Paper Element Filters but can be washed in Dish Soap and does not need to be recharged with Oil as the K&N one does.

In an Old thread on the subject I disproved the “ Hot Air Intake” idea. Heat only builds up under the Hood at Idle. While my Car was moving; even in City Traffic the under the Hood temp is about 5 degrees higher than the outside temp.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

The Breather

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Interesting, thanks for the pix!

Dave

... isn't that filter paper?

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John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread
"as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do!

My drivers:
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 560SL convertible
1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!!

1987 300TD
2005 Dodge Sprinter 2500 158"WB
1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere!

Kind of brightens up the engine bay.

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My occupational hazard bein'
my occupation's just not around...
1980 300SD
1980 300SD

I can't see why that wouldn't work. Better get some Por-15 on that cookie container

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1981 300TD "The Green Lantern"
1980 300TD
1983 300D Euro "China Cat"

So how did it go? I went ahead and did the same thing myself after I went through 3 mounts and I don't want to have to buy another bracket, just for that one to break as well. I still haven't hooked up my home-made oil separator yet, but... well it is definitely louder (not a good thing), but it actually feels kinda weaker... I am still getting 10psi boost, so is that good indicator that air restriction is not the issue? (I mean, if it can get up to 10psi, then obviously it wouldn't be getting more air with the stock filter since that was what I was getting before), but it just still feels that way.

Are you happy with the mods?

I have not experienced any noticable performance difference good or bad.

However, I have no idea what my boost pressure is.

If you want more boost see if you can adjust your Waste Gate. If you cannot adjust it get one of those adjustabel Boost Control valves on ebay for around $13-$15 and hook it between the Wastegat Pressure Hose and adjust it to the Boost Pressure you want.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

I live in S. Ca. No Snow and no Icy Roads to put Salt on.
So, I am not expecting it to rust out for a long time.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

And here I thought I had a good idea, lol

I have been using the Conical filter that my Ranger uses, on the MBs I have. The filter it self is like yours, just physically a little different.

I also use a portion of the Ford filter housing and clamp band to mount and make it easy to change the filter.

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I have not checked this thread for some time.

The Fram Washable Filters are not made of Paper and the part number for them starts with WA.

Fram of course makes a regular Paper Element and they most often start with CA in part number.

Amsoil also makes their own washable version of the Filter I used.

The only thing I would change on the Mod I did is at some Point I am going to get rid of the Cookie Can I used an replace it with something larger.
I still get some Oil inside of the Air Inlet from blowby but at least it is not messing up the Air Filter any more.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Hi Diesel911,

Nice MOD there, but there are alot who will disagree about the the "hot air" will not improve performances...
I got a cone filter as well and its near the opening at the front of the car, then as soon as I move, cold air goes into it I don't see any lack of performances and its a lot cheaper as washable
Last year in winter I had a shield directing cold air from outside and preventing the heat of the turbo getting into it, I found out that at -5 it was bad for the engine, especially as I run on mix WVO, I can only imagine near freezing air going into the prechamber while the oil is misty. EEK!
Then even if the air is a wee warmer with a cone filter, I think its all good
Olivier
PS: what was those adjustable boost control valves you were talking about? Are they OK with vaccum actuator? Cheers.

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E300TD year 2000. RUSTY SOLD
cost a fortune to maintain on the road
but run well on WVO
Second Merc died due to corrosion ( NOT rust) How can mercedes get away with that for so long?
Third lasted a month then went away...
Fourth now... Corroded too...

I have disproved the Hot Air issue to my satisfaction (at least in S. CA where I live).

To summarize a test I did with a Digital Thermometer Probe under the Hood attached outside of the Metal Part of the Stock Air Filter Housing Inlet.

What I found is that as long as the Car is moving at even City Traffic speeds the under the Hood temp only rises about 5 degrees F higher than the outside temp.

However, when stopped at a long Traffic Signal the under the Hood temp shot up to 197 degrees F. But, who cares what temp the incoming Air is at idle speed.
As soon as you start moving the temp drops quickly.

If there is some sort of Belly Pan (none on my W123) I would expect the results to be different.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

I am posting this to correct the above stuff. Apparently my memory of the test was not so good. I found what I previously posted so here that is:

"I have a digital Thermometer with a probe long enough the I put it under the hood at the end of my air filter horn (Federal air filter housing) which would be about where one of those Cone type filters would be under the hood and I ran the car on the Freeway to get it hot and drove around town and sat at some long Traffic Signals. I also put the probe all the way up front where the cold air would go into the air filter and drove around again.

I was surprised to find out that while you are moving even in slow traffic the outside and under the hood temperature is not significantly different. However, when you idle the under the hood temperature went up from the 76 degree outside temp to 98-110 degrees under the hood.

My conclusion is that you do no harm by having the end of the air intake system under the hood as it only made a differance when you sat at idle. When you start moving there is enough air flow that you get the colder outside air anyway.

If you want to try the experiment youself (cheaper than a new intake system) I bought the thermometer at Target and it has a 36 inch long steel braided covered wire. You are supposed to stick the probe in what you are cooking in the oven to measure the inside temp of it and run the cable out of the oven door and the Digital display has magnets on the back to stick to you oven/car hood. I believe it cost around $16.
Get someone with good eyes to ride along with you to do the reading of the thermostat."

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

I am not sure what function Vacuum Actuator has. I do not believe my Car has one.
I bought a Boost Controller similar to the one at the site below:
UNIVERSAL ADJUSTABLE RACING TURBO 30 PSI MANUAL BOOST BYPASS CONTROLLER KIT RED | eBay

I believe it is only useful on applications where the Waste Gate along with the Intake Manifold pressure is the only thing that controls the Boost Pressure.
Meaning there is nothing Computer or Electronically controlled.

I believe it is simply a Spring loaded Valve. You can adjust the pressure as to when the Valve opens and allows that pressure to open the Waste Gate.
This is useful if you cannot adjust your Waste Gate and your Waste Gate is opening too low of a pressure.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel