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  #1  
Old 07-05-2010, 11:18 AM
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300D injection pump timing procedure

is the start of delivery spout tool really required? can I use an old injector line? MB dealer wants a 100$ for the spout tool. If so would anyone let borrow or buy one from them? thanks Mike

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Old 07-05-2010, 11:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mmeeks1 View Post
can I use an old injector line?
Yes.
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  #3  
Old 07-05-2010, 12:57 PM
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Better of making one as the only one I saw on eBay was $21.95 + $5.55 shipping. You can get a complete set of 5 Fuel Injection Hard alines at the Junk Yard for that much in my area.
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Old 07-06-2010, 08:32 AM
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Thanks , I'll try some hard lines
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Old 07-06-2010, 02:54 PM
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1987 w124 300D
 
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I've adjusted timing successfully by butt dyno and detonation detectors (ears) alone. So, no, you don't need a spout tool, or anything like it. It's not hard to find the sweet spot of delivery for your average driving conditions. I turned a DOG into a TIGER by timing alone. It looked like the P.O. had never touched timing, nor timing chain. And timing was dialed way down, retarded. I cranked it up several degrees. Zoom! Then, later a new timing chain got the valves and crank talking the same language. That didn't increase power so much but totally cleaned up smokey starts and low RPM smoke. I did slacken the timing off a degree or 2 when things got too "knocky" with the new chain. Quieted that right down, but power remains. That's how she stays. Now it's set for best power.

Remember, you are choosing one start of delivery point that has to be tolerant of all the variance in driving conditions encountered. Ideally, timing would adjust itself on the fly but these IP setups aren't modern. So you're having to pick the best "average conditions" timing spot.

Here's my advice, set the timing as you see fit. Then drive it for a while how you like to drive, then re-adjust timing slightly less or more. Drive another week like that. Then see which you like better, extra power, more economy, less noise, easier starts.... weigh it all in. And leave it how you like.

A drop forming on a spout at the right moment of crank revolution is like finding 55 MPH mark on the speedometer. Good to know, but maybe you're not driving at 55 MPH.
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Last edited by scottmcphee; 07-06-2010 at 03:08 PM.
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  #6  
Old 07-06-2010, 11:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scottmcphee View Post
I've adjusted timing successfully by butt dyno and detonation detectors (ears) alone. So, no, you don't need a spout tool, or anything like it. It's not hard to find the sweet spot of delivery for your average driving conditions. I turned a DOG into a TIGER by timing alone. It looked like the P.O. had never touched timing, nor timing chain. And timing was dialed way down, retarded. I cranked it up several degrees. Zoom! Then, later a new timing chain got the valves and crank talking the same language. That didn't increase power so much but totally cleaned up smokey starts and low RPM smoke. I did slacken the timing off a degree or 2 when things got too "knocky" with the new chain. Quieted that right down, but power remains. That's how she stays. Now it's set for best power.

Remember, you are choosing one start of delivery point that has to be tolerant of all the variance in driving conditions encountered. Ideally, timing would adjust itself on the fly but these IP setups aren't modern. So you're having to pick the best "average conditions" timing spot.

Here's my advice, set the timing as you see fit. Then drive it for a while how you like to drive, then re-adjust timing slightly less or more. Drive another week like that. Then see which you like better, extra power, more economy, less noise, easier starts.... weigh it all in. And leave it how you like.

A drop forming on a spout at the right moment of crank revolution is like finding 55 MPH mark on the speedometer. Good to know, but maybe you're not driving at 55 MPH.
The Fuel Injection Pump Timer has Advance Weights that are supposed to adjust the timing on the Fly.

Also there is an AB Light and RIV methods of timing that do not need the Drip Spout and while mainly for assembly there is an Fuel Injection Pump Locking/Timing Pin also uses no Drip Tube.
All cost more than a Drip Tube.

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