I have a problem with my 1982 240D which has 225k. I have had the car 5 years and have put 60k on it. It ran great and gave us dependable service. My problem started about a month ago when I tryed to start it, and it basically locked up. After removing the valve cover, I noted that the timing chain had broken. Luckily, the end of the chain had not cleared the valve sprocket (valves should be undamaged). Unluckily the other end dropped down into the engine and began to wrap itself around the crank sprocket. This knocked a sizable hole in the upper oil pan and broke 3 teeth on the crank sprocket (found during disassembly). After removing the sump pan, I realized that the engine would have to be removed in order to remove the old chain, repair the upper oil pan, and renew the timing chain and rails. The root cause of the failure appears to be a broken tension rail.

Well I thought about all of this for a few days and realizing that to have it professionally repaired would cost a more than its worth, I decided to tackle it myself, with only a Haynes Manual to assist me. To make a long story shorter, the repair of the engine went fairly smooth. I renewed the chain, rails, and sprocket and got the valve timing back per the Haynes Manual directions. I also put in a new set of glow plugs and replaced the 5 1/2 year old battery, which had begun to give problems. However, after reinstallation of the engine, it will not start. Thinking that the fuel injection pump timing may have gotten thrown off, I removed the injection pump this weekend, only to find that it was lined up perfectly per the Haynes Manual. I have not tried a compression check, as my gas engine compression tester wouldn't mate up, and it only goes to 300 pounds anyway. I did notice that during the engine work, there was considerable compression as I hand rotated the engine. I wanted to make sure the valve timing would return to the marks after a few rotations (they did).

What should I do next? Is my assessment of no valve damage justified, since the chain had not run past the valve sprocket? Should I obtain a compression tester? I could do an air run down test? What fittings do I need to do this? Or is there something else I have neglected? A nice Christmas present would be to get it running again - it is the best car I have ever owned.

__________________
1976 240D
1987 560SL
2007 E320 Bluetec
1998 C280 (now son’s car)
1982 240D Manual - Sold