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  #1  
Old 04-15-2000, 03:45 AM
mslorraine
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My alternator belt broke. I replaced the belt and I also replaced the glow plugs.

I've only had the car a few months...Now
the car won't start up without me spraying THRUST starter spray for diesels! Then it starts right up. If I let it set for a few hours. It won't start up again. The glow plug light had already stopped coming on.
Is this serious? I had thought I could get this car together maybe doing alittle at a time but now I don't know. I may have taken on too much.
My instrument panel does not light up. The gas gauge doesn't work. It drives great. I love it. It does have a little knocking in the front sometimes when you're waiting at the light. Sometimes when going up the freeway ramp. It won't have as much power. Other times it flys up there. It doesn't smoke that much. So no problem there. It doesn't use oil or get hot.
I enjoy working on cars. If I have the proper instructions. I can pretty much do a lot of things myself. Since I've had this problem I've been considering maybe selling this car and getting another one. A newer model. Or just one in better shape. I know I have to put it in the shop for some of these problems. I hope someone out there can help me with some of these problems. I really don't like being blind when I go to a dealership. I would like to kind of know what's going on with my car.
Thanks in advance, Loretta
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  #2  
Old 04-15-2000, 10:13 PM
LarryBible
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Loretta,

First of all, I am very worried about your using starting fluid. Some diesels use glow plugs as a starting aid and others don't. On some glow plug diesels (Ford Pickups as an example) there are decals in the engine compartment warning against the use of starting fluid. It sounds like your glow plugs are not working and that's why; a) you have to use the starting fluid, and b) you're getting by with it. If the glow plugs are working this may be a dangerous thing to do.

There is a simple way to check the glow plugs. It would best be done with a volt meter, but a test light would do. Follow the glow plug connection at the rear of the engine. There should be a wire from there up to a small box on the firewall behind the engine. Open this little box and first check to see if the fuse bar is intact. If not replace it and recheck your glow plug connections to see that the insulators are on correctly, if one is grounding, then you do not have all of them in series causing more current draw and a burned out fuse. With your volt meter or test light, test for voltage at the fuse block. If no voltage, find and check the glow plug relay, it may be inside behind the instrument cluster. If there is voltage, keep going from glow plug to glow plug testing voltage. This is a series circuit, so the voltage should progressively decrease by 1/4th as you move toward the front of the engine.

You also need to determine the first three digits of your vehicles serial number. It will be 123 or 115. I expect that it will be 123. The 123 series was sold in Europe for about a year before it was sold in the US. By finding out which series car you have, it will help everyone on this forum, to help you better.

If your 240D doesn't use oil and runs well when everything is right, I would encourage you to get to the bottom of your problems, and stay with it. The first 240D I bought many years ago was an old, tired car, but it was so great to drive and I loved it so much, I bought another that had 17,000 miles on it, and I now have over 500,000 miles on it. Their great.

Keep posting your problems and questions on here, and you'll find that you can get through whatever ails the car, and enjoy it for a long time. You will also probably make some cyber friends.

Best of luck,

------------------
Larry Bible
'84 Euro 240D, 516K miles
'88 300E 5 Speed
'81 300D Daughter's Car
Over 800,000 miles in
Mercedes automobiles
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  #3  
Old 04-17-2000, 05:53 PM
mslorraine
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Thanks, guys for making me feel better about Bessie. I can't tell what my chassis number is. How can I tell from this group of numbers.
1B 522 7718
115117 12 23136 7
470H _
542 580 593 621 819
426 467 491 515
Thanking you in advance, Loretta
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  #4  
Old 04-17-2000, 05:57 PM
mslorraine
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Oh, I haven't changed my fuel filters. Is it fairly simple to do? My dad can help me some. Do I need special tools?

Thanks, again
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  #5  
Old 04-17-2000, 06:10 PM
LarryBible
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Loretta,

It appears, from the numbers you gave, that this is a 115 car. I'm afraid that I'm not going to be a lot of help. The only 115 car I ever had was a gas car.

If it were a 123 car, I could give you fuel filter instructions, step by step. But I'm sure you don't need special tools. There should be two filters, a large filter that looks like a spin on oil filter and a small primary filter that is no more than a screen in a plastic case. The important thing that you need to know before you remove the filters is how to reprime the system. I believe you will find a small plunger type primer pump near the injection pump. Turn the plastic knob counterclockwise to unlock it and then pump in and out to prime. Once you have located the primer pump and are sure you know how to operate it, remove and replace the filters. Then pump until you hear a hissing sound at the top of the spin on filter. It won't hurt to keep pumping after you hear the sound. Then lock down the pump knob by turning clockwise after pushing down. It should then start.

Good luck,

------------------
Larry Bible
'84 Euro 240D, 516K miles
'88 300E 5 Speed
'81 300D Daughter's Car
Over 800,000 miles in
Mercedes automobiles
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  #6  
Old 04-18-2000, 12:29 AM
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Join Date: Jun 1999
Location: Los Angeles, Calif, USA
Posts: 521
Be sure the engine has good compression and the valve adjustment is done correctly.

David
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  #7  
Old 04-18-2000, 02:51 PM
Aaron's Avatar
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Join Date: Aug 1999
Location: Cincinnati, Ohio
Posts: 1,935

Another alternative to priming the system would be to just fill the canister filter all the way up to the top with diesel fuel and be careful not to spill any when re-installing it. You should then not need to use the hand pump. Those old hand pumps (the type Larry is talking about) where you have to unlock them before use can develop leaks. The solution is to get a modified one from MB that you do not need to twist to operate. They are much better. In addition, when tightening the main fuel filter (the canister) be sure not to overtighten it or else it will leak from the housing. BTW, there is also a modified housing for the older diesels now which uses 2 o-rings on the bolt rather than the top copper seal. Good luck!


------------------
Rgds,
Aaron Greenberg
MB technician
Precision Motorcars, Cincinnati, Ohio
'67 250SE Cabriolet
'77 450SL
'80 300SD
'85 380SE
'89 420SEL
'93 300E 2.8
'74 Jensen Interceptor Mk.III
'81 DeLorean DMC12
'85 BMW 745i Turbo
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  #8  
Old 04-18-2000, 05:01 PM
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Join Date: Oct 1999
Location: Culver City, CA, USA
Posts: 62
Aaron,
is the housing of which you speak expensive? What is the P/N.?
I just changed the filters on my 123 and had some problem getting the large one to seal. More specificaly getting the aluminium seal on the large nut which holds the filter to stop bubling as I primed the system with the hand pump.
Mark.
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  #9  
Old 04-18-2000, 06:09 PM
LarryBible
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Loretta,

Did you get your glow plugs fixed? I'm worried about you using the starting fluid.

Good luck,


------------------
Larry Bible
'84 Euro 240D, 516K miles
'88 300E 5 Speed
'81 300D Daughter's Car
Over 800,000 miles in
Mercedes automobiles
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  #10  
Old 04-19-2000, 01:02 AM
Aaron's Avatar
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Join Date: Aug 1999
Location: Cincinnati, Ohio
Posts: 1,935

Mark,

Not sure of the P/N of the modified unit. You'd have to check with MB on this one. It's around $30 if I remember correctly. Definitely a recommended fix.


------------------
Rgds,
Aaron Greenberg
MB technician
Precision Motorcars, Cincinnati, Ohio
'67 250SE Cabriolet
'77 450SL
'80 300SD
'85 380SE
'89 420SEL
'93 300E 2.8
'74 Jensen Interceptor Mk.III
'81 DeLorean DMC12
'85 BMW 745i Turbo
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  #11  
Old 04-19-2000, 01:23 PM
mslorraine
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Larry, I believe what you are saying about spraying the starting fluid. I'm not driving as much. Until I can get the car fixed.
I was checking the fuses yesterday they all seem to be ok. I didn't see a fuse for the glow plugs. It's not in the same box??
How do I take off the instrument panel to check the glow plug relay? Is this a delicate process?
I was going to change the fuel filters. But, I don't believe I have enough information about my particular car on how to change them.
Do you and Aaron think that if I had Mercedes to give me a tuneup. It would take care of this problem?
Thanking you in advance, Loretta
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  #12  
Old 04-19-2000, 01:25 PM
mslorraine
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David thanks for bringing up some important points.
Loretta
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  #13  
Old 04-19-2000, 03:04 PM
LarryBible
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Loretta,

The fuse I mentioned is not in the regular fuse box. Also, it doesn't look like a fuse you see in the fuse box. It is a strap of metal about 1/4" wide and and inch or so long with a screw at either end. It will probably be in a small black plastic box barely large enough to hold the fuse.

Unfortunately, much of my information that I gave you in my first response may not apply. I was making the assumption at the time the you have a 123 car with which I am somewhat familiar. Your 115 diesel is different. I'm sure that there are some people who are familiar with the 115 that can help. I would suggest starting a new post with a title that makes it clear that you have a 115 diesel car.

As far as a "tuneup" goes, a tuneup is sort of an obsolete operation with modern cars and with diesels. A "tuneup" on a diesel really only involves changing fuel filters and maybe valve adjustment. What I believe you need is repair of your glow plug system. You might put out a post to request a good independent MB shop in your area.

Since, as I said, I'm not familiar where the glow plug relay is located on your car, removing the instrument cluster would probably be pointless until you find out precisely where the glow plug relay is located. However, the instrument cluster on your car is mounted in a rubber surround and just pushes out from underneath. Reach under the dash, behind the cluster and push it toward the steering wheel.

Good luck,
Larry
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  #14  
Old 04-21-2000, 07:11 PM
mslorraine
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Larry you are just so knowledgeable.
I wanted to try and deal with the fuel fuel filters. But, my dad feels I'm over my head. He's 76 and he hasn't worked on anything but diesel trucks. So he's not familiar with my car. I've had a 1984 300D and a 1988 300SD. I bought them from the dealer and they were both in excellent shape.So this is kind of new to me. I have the Chilton's book but the stuff is different on a Euro model. I called Mercedes in Germany to see if they had the Euro Version books for my car. The guy didn't understand a lot of english but I did get a fax number from him. I faxed him all of my information. He's suppose to get back to me about what books he has. I had contacted Mercedes in New Jersey and they didn't have European books at all. After the info I received from you and the other guys. I decided I will keep my car. I just need info. Larry going from the info you gave me. I found I have an insulator missing. So this could be the startup problem. I would like to take care of that first. Then I will take it to Mercedes and get a professional service. Or to a Mercedes that's recommended. I live in Bellflower, Calif. lorettahill@prodigy.net
I want to be able to just go out to my car and drive to Mississippi if I want. What do you think Larry?
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  #15  
Old 04-21-2000, 08:00 PM
LarryBible
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Loretta,

Probably the best value for a book would be a Haynes manual. If you can find one on a diesel of your model. Remember, it's a 115, not a 123. There will be some things different on the Euro model, some of them will surprise you I would expect. But the Haynes manual would be your best bet.

The best at any price would be the CD available from the partsshop on this site. But I don't think they have one for your car, you should check.

If you're missing an insulator, you've probably found your problem. You probably need to use an ohmmeter to ensure that the circuit is okay once you're done. There are good instructions in the Haynes manual. If you know someone with basic electricity or electronics knowledge, they can check the circuit to ensure that all the plugs are in series with progressive resistance and voltage along the trail. Also, once you fix the insulator problem and have the glow plug circuit right, you MUST find the bar fuse I spoke about, just trace the glow plug wire from the engine, and you should find it. If you were missing an insulator, the circuit was grounded somewhere in the middle decreasing overall resistance to the glow plug chain. This most likely blew the fuse. The fuses are inexpensive and can be had at the dealer. Don't wire around the fuse, you don't want to compound the problems you already have by burning up some wiring and maybe the relay.

The fuel filters are not that difficult to replace, but I would wait until you get the glow plugs fixed. Deal with one thing at a time.

Good luck,

------------------
Larry Bible
'84 Euro 240D, 516K miles
'88 300E 5 Speed
'81 300D Daughter's Car
Over 800,000 miles in
Mercedes automobiles
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