My Custom 1980 W116 300SD Project - Page 20 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

pj67coll · #**286** 12-11-2012, 04:34 PM

Nice to see what you are accomplishing with that car. The 116 is a wonderful road trip vehicle. Wish I had one again. You must have driven right past me on I10 at some stage. I live in Avondale.

- Peter.

Squiggle Dog · #**287** 12-11-2012, 07:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pj67coll

Nice to see what you are accomplishing with that car. The 116 is a wonderful road trip vehicle. Wish I had one again. You must have driven right past me on I10 at some stage. I live in Avondale.

- Peter.

Wow, you are really close. I wouldn't be surprised if you see my car around. I've been to and through Avondale several times.

pj67coll · #**288** 12-12-2012, 12:03 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Squiggle Dog

Wow, you are really close. I wouldn't be surprised if you see my car around. I've been to and through Avondale several times.

I'll keep my eyes open.

- Peter

300D85 · #**289** 12-12-2012, 05:08 AM

watch out for the oil cooler lines

read a thread on your model where the engine mounts were shot and from the movement a belt ended up slicing/cutting the line

Squiggle Dog · #**290** 12-12-2012, 12:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 300D85

watch out for the oil cooler lines

read a thread on your model where the engine mounts were shot and from the movement a belt ended up slicing/cutting the line

I've been watching them and haven't seen where it looks like they could get cut. The driver side mount appears halfway collapsed, whereas the passenger side mount is totally flat and the mounting arm is resting on metal.

Apparently Lemfoerder or Phoenix are not options for the passenger side mount, so rather than mess with trying Febi, Meyle, Corteco, etc. I'm just going to buy genuine MB mounts and not worry about it.

I was hoping to replace the engine shocks and bushing kits at the same time, but since it's not in my budget (the bushing kits cost several times what the shocks cost), I have a spare set from a car I parted out and am going to use the best set out of the two. I think I should have enough good bushings. If I don't have two good shocks, then I'll probably spend the $25 each to buy the OEM Stabilus ones PeachParts sells.

300D85 · #**291** 12-12-2012, 04:26 PM

ok, just wanted to let you know, i do remember about the thread that the the engine was replaced

mighta been the power steering belt...

i'd have a look at it when the engine is idling, give 'er some shots of throttle and see what belt may come close to the oil lines

i'll try to find the thread in the meantime.. it was awhile ago

edit - all i could find quick 300SD oil cooler lines

Squiggle Dog · #**292** 12-22-2012, 04:12 PM

A Mercedes Sprinter van stopped in front of my house and delivered a set of new genuine engine mounts. They were $109.00 each after my MBCA discount, a far cry from the $4.93 each for aftermarket. However, Mercedes states a different part number for the right side because it needs a different shore hardness, while many aftermarket suppliers state one part number fits both sides.

I'm sure you get what you pay for. Put on cheap aftermarket mounts and you get more vibration and shortened life. I already have a genuine transmission mount on there anyway. I've heard too many horror stories of aftermarket engine mounts collapsing in short time to want to play that game. When I rebuilt my entire brake system with genuine parts, the weak link in the chain was the one set of aftermarket parts (Meyle parking brake shoes) I used that required much grinding and filing to fit.

I have heard that Lemfoerder makes a great set of engine mounts, but unfortunately, they do not offer the right side mount for my car and I'd rather have the correct shore hardness on the right side than use a left side mount on the right.

The passenger side mount was collapsed and causing the engine to tilt to the right and make the body vibrate.

The engine mounting arm was resting on the metal part of the mount.

Before raising the engine, I disconnected the throttle linkage.

The factory service manual also states to remove the intake tube, but I already have it disconnected due to not being able to use the intake funnel with Euro headlights.

To loosen the mounting arms to the mounts, there is a 10mm bolt on each side that needs to be removed from underneath the mount. I discovered that the right side bolt was missing, meaning the right side mounting arm was not even connected to the mount! I discovered the hard way that the W123 and W126 chassis use an 8mm bolt, so I had to use one off of my Universal turbodiesel project.

Squiggle Dog · #**293** 12-22-2012, 04:13 PM

Before raising the engine, the engine shock absorbers have to be disconnected at the bottom.

You have to hold onto the shaft with a 7mm wrench to keep it from turning as you loosen the 10mm nuts.

It's really nice if you have an engine lift. Otherwise, you can use a jack and block of wood and lift at the oil pan. You really have to watch the fan blades to make sure they clear the shroud. Also, you can only raise the engine so high before there is too much tension on the "cigar" fuel hose.

Once the engine is raised up you can pull out the heat shields, and then you can remove the 6mm hex key screws holding the mounts to the body. I could not get the hex key into one of the screws. I tried picking out whatever was caked into the head, but I could not get any bite into it. I decided I would tap the mount with a hammer and get the whole mount to pivot counterclockwise. Doing this loosened up the screw enough that I could start turning it with the hex key. There was some kind of cement stuck in there.

Comparing the new mounts to the old ones. The old passenger side mount is totally flattened compared to the new one. One half of it sheared completely so it had no support when there was weight on it.

Squiggle Dog · #**294** 12-22-2012, 04:14 PM

The genuine mounts appear identical to pictures I have seen of the Lemfoerder ones, with the exception of the Lemfoerders having the star logo ground off. If one could find a right side (123 241 27 13 as opposed to 123 241 30 13 for left) Lemfoerder brand, that would most likely be a cheaper and acceptable alternative since they probably make them for Mercedes (or at least buy them from Phoenix AG and rebox them).

The heat shields had been deformed and the right side one had curled into a U-shape, so they required reworking. There were some stress cracks that I filled with JB Weld to keep oil from seeping through onto the mounts.

The engine now sits level and a bit higher. Now I have the clearance I need to install my skid plate.

Overall, it wasn't a difficult job other than having to deal with getting one of the hex key screws to turn and locating a replacement engine mount bolt. The engine mount to mounting arm bolts got tightened to 70nm and the screws from engine mount to crossmember got tightened to as close as I could estimate to get at 30nm. While I was at it, I replaced one blown engine shock with a spare that I had. The ones I now have still seem to work, so I'll hold off on buying new ones for a while.

The engine now idles smoothly and the body vibration and rattle are gone.

Squiggle Dog · #**295** 12-22-2012, 04:15 PM

I've been having problems with opening and closing my doors. Usually Mercedes have flawless door operation, but after 314,000 miles of use the parts wear out. The driver front door required several slams before it would shut and occasionally it would pop open while driving. The driver rear door would not open with the outside door handle even after replacing the door mechanism before and adjusting the door handle bite. The passenger front and rear doors were very loud when shutting. I decided enough was enough.

Back when I was living in Washington, there was a time when there were about 5 W116s at the PickNPull. One of the W116s was a 1979 450SEL with under 100,000 miles. I removed all of the door mechanisms and strikers.

I already had the door panels off when I got home from my trip to get the parts from my old house, so I opened up the box with the door parts and started to replace them. The outside door handles come off with two 5mm hex key screws under a plug, then you slide the handles forward and pull them out. The screws holding the door mechanisms get really stuck, so I take a bit that fits into them perfectly and hammer them in a few times with a sledge to get them to loosen up. Then, I put an 8mm socket over the bit and while pushing down I get them to break free. Usually this is the only way to loosen them without ruining the heads.

After soaking the door mechanisms in diesel, I hosed them off and let them dry. Once dry, I used an oil can to lubricate the pivoting parts. Automatic transmission fluid works well. I also sprayed some wax on them and then put grease on the sliding parts. Any missing or damaged springs were replaced.

The original part is on the left and the replacement part is on the right. The old parts were corroded and had missing or worn out springs.

Squiggle Dog · #**296** 12-22-2012, 04:16 PM

One key observation is that good door mechanisms have plastic buffers on the contact points where they hit the door strikers. These decrease noise and wear. They were worn off on my old mechanisms. I would get good ones from wrecking yards while they are still out there as it doesn't appear old mechanisms can be rebuilt without expensive equipment and tooling. If I had the money I would buy up the NOS ones on eBay to have as spares.

The original striker is on the left and the replacement striker is on the right. Notice the deep grooves in the aluminum body from the steel parts digging in since the plastic buffers had worn off. This can cause door rattle. Always reuse the old shims exactly as they came off unless you can see that the cone on the mechanism doesn't line up with the striker hole horizontally.

When removing the striker hex key screws, I hammer the 5mm bit into them with a sledge hammer a few times and use downward pressure while turning. However, 3 of them still ended up rounding off in the passenger side rear, forcing me to use drastic measures. Not one of the drill bits I have were any good (they wouldn't even drill through aluminum!) so I ended up having to carefully use a rotary tool and cutting disc to slice up the old striker and screw heads.

When fitting the new strikers in place, try to put them in as near the original position as possible (with original shims), then tighten the screws with just enough pressure that the striker doesn't move. Then, shut the door. While holding the door, pull back on the door handle, then pull the door open. Tighten up the striker then shut the door. The door should be lined up perfectly. If necessary, adjust the striker in or out so the door is flush with the body when shut, or up or down so that the door mechanism doesn't hit the striker in the wrong place. The cone of the mechanism should aim directly into the hole in the striker. I like to lubricate the area where the parts contact each other to minimize noise and wear.

The doors now open and shut quietly and with little force--almost like new. While I was at it, I replaced or rebuilt and lubricated the door check mechanisms in three of the doors since I had already put a new one in the driver side door. It seems all of them either had broken housings or bent wheel pins. I already lubricated the door hinges, so the doors work like new and I am very happy. I installed my new door check seals on them, too--which apparently are now no longer available.

I decided I would reconnect the vacuum to the door locks to see what would happen. My ignition key works with all of the locks except for the doors. One of the keys on the keyring fits the driver side door, but not the passenger side, however the lock didn't make the plunger in the door move due to the shaft on the door handle being broken. I was able to push out the pin in the passenger side door handle with a nail and swap out the shaft onto the driver side door handle (had to reverse the position of the shaft). This made the driver side door lock with the key.

When I locked the driver door, it made the other doors lock as well. I lubricated the trunk latch and fuel door pin, and this made those locks work too. Now I can finally lock my driver door with a key, and it makes the other three doors, trunk, and fuel door lock at the same time. I am so happy to be able to lock my car.

300D85 · #**297** 12-22-2012, 05:03 PM

does the manual give any info about proper lube for the latches?

not sure what would be best here but no doubt there is specialized stuff out there,

having to deal with freezing temps could be a prob for some

Squiggle Dog · #**298** 12-22-2012, 07:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 300D85

does the manual give any info about proper lube for the latches?

not sure what would be best here but no doubt there is specialized stuff out there,

having to deal with freezing temps could be a prob for some

The manual mentions some special lubricants, but I used two types: Mobil1 synthetic red chassis grease and automatic transmission fluid where I wasn't able to force grease.

Squiggle Dog · #**299** 01-06-2013, 10:58 PM

My 300SD has been running and driving great, for which I am very thankful (on B99 biodiesel since I've been down here--it's cheaper than diesel and the engine runs smoother). I decided it was time to clean it.

The paint is damaged, so I didn't do much more to it other than scrape off a bunch of loose clearcoat, hose it off, and tried to wipe off as much of the water spots as I could before it dried (we have very hard water here). After that, I wiped 303 Aerospace Protectant on the rubber surfaces to protect them from the sun (SPF 40 rating, blocks 100% of ultraviolet rays when used regularly), and it made them look like new. Sadly, the gaskets on the NOS turn signal and taillights are already cracking. I applied Howard's Feed & Wax to the wood slats on the rack.

I also attached the ends of the bumper overriders. The car was in a collision at some point, which bent the front crossmember, the right fender was repaired, and the overrider brackets were tweaked. I've had some difficulty getting the centerlines of the bumper and grille to match. The ends of the overriders wouldn't reach the fender until I attempted to straighten the brackets. At least they bolt up now, even though they are not perfect.

I applied for my 500,000km mileage badge since I just rolled over 315,000 miles. I look forward to installing it next to my 250,000km badge. I've got a Saudi Arabia badge that will be going on too, since that is where I grew up.

The interior was in dire need of cleaning. The seats were grimey and the carpets were dirty and oil-stained. I found that I had a spare upper front seat skin, so I replaced the one on the driver side that had a large hole in it. I installed the set of brown seat net panels to add to the two-tone effect.

I scrubbed the seats with a stiff-bristled brush and Simple Green. It took out the grease and grime and even removed most of the sunburn. I applied 303 Aerospace Protectant to the seats and other vinyl surfaces. I plan to have the windows tinted to help further protect the interior from the Phoenix sun.

I vacuumed the carpets then sprayed the dark spots with Simple Green and soaked the rest in water. Then I used a stiff-bristled brush to scrub out the stains and sucked up the water with a carpet extractor. When the carpets dried they were clean and the color was darker than before. Removing dust and expended particles of carpet made a big difference.

I applied Howard's Feed & Wax to the wood. The wood on the instrument cluster has already started to warp and crack, as has the dashboard wood. The wood on the center console appeared to be drying out, so hopefully this product will help save it all.

Squiggle Dog · #**300** 01-06-2013, 10:59 PM

The back seat is wrinkly, but it's a lot better than the too-narrow blue W123 seat that the car came with, the blue velour seat I replaced it with, and the poorly-recovered tan one I installed after. Now I am not embarrassed to have people sit on filthy seats.

I put the seat nets to use by placing some reading material in them; a book on the Mercedes W116 S-Class, The Star Magazine, a brochure from The Mercedes-Benz Classic Center, and an owner's manual.

I have a headlight wiper set that I am considering installing. It was a subsequent dealer installation on a USA-spec car, so it has a separate wire harness that still has its own firewall grommets that were never used, which would make wiring it simple. I have a set of new wiper arms for it, and the relay cube and squirters that fit on the overriders with the tubing and clips, but would need to figure out where to drill the holes for the shafts in the under-headlight panels. I would like to keep my battery cooler duct, so I am thinking of possibly cutting the duct so the headlight wiper motor fits in it.

I finally got my Arizona CDL with passenger, tanker, and hazmat endorsements, so I am qualified for a good job. I have an interview tomorrow with a company that rents portable restrooms as a driver. I also have applications in for other companies doing jobs such as delivering oil, CO2 tanks, etc. Hopefully I'll have a good income soon so I can pay off my medical bills and put some more money into my W116.