My Custom 1980 W116 300SD Project - Page 13 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

Squiggle Dog · #**181** 09-19-2011, 09:43 PM

I just got back from the dealer where I had all 4 wheels aligned. I brought the steering box centering screw with me so that they could center the box while adjusting the front wheels to point straight ahead.

All 4 wheels are now within specs and the steering feels great. It's one less thing to worry about. The cost was $165.58 after my 10% MBCA discount. I was charged $8 for shop supplies and another $8 for hazardous waste removal, which I think is a bit of a scam, but oh well. After topping off the fuel tank I am now broke, which is not a good thing.

I still can't get over how much better my car looks after adding the wheels/tires and polishing it.

It looks much better than it did at the time I purchased it.

Oh, and I made wall art out of my last car:

andersbenz · #**182** 09-19-2011, 10:22 PM

Stunning Car

Squiggle Dog · #**183** 11-25-2011, 09:53 PM

I started working on those TRON wheels so I could use the studded snow tires this winter. I took them to the best locksmith in town and it took them a week to make a key. The key would only unlock one of the center caps because the other three were too corroded inside the lock cylinders. I soaked the cylinders in penetrating oil, then tried baking soda and vinegar. Both of the keys I had broke off inside the locks, so I gave up.

I sold those things to someone who is going to drill out the locks. I couldn't deal with them anymore. They cost a good amount of money to purchase and have the keys made, then they were just taking up valuable space in my storage shed. I also think that the tires were made in 1983 and probably no longer safe for freeway use.

I started hearing a thumping noise under the hood. What I discovered was a broken air cleaner mount that was causing the air cleaner to rattle against the inner fender. This is not uncommon because owners neglect the rubber air cleaner mounts, and engines that have an idle that is too low or rough puts a lot of vibration into the bracket.

A previous owner had drilled a hole in the bracket where the crack occurred. The crankcase breather pipe next to the bracket had a paper towel inserted in it when I purchased it, since there was a melted cone filter attached to the turbo in place of the factory air cleaner.

The bracket had already been welded once before in another location.

I didn't buy a new bracket since I'm unemployed, but I had three spares. Unfortunately, all three had broken in the same place, but two of them had been repaired.

When people have these welded, they forget that the area underneath needs to be flush or else it will cause the bracket to tilt. I filed the area smooth.

That fixed the problem. Hopefully it lasts. Some day I want to buy Meyle's heavy duty bracket. I also noticed that the turbo wastegate hose was getting worn through, and the air intake rings were aged and not sealing well. If the wastegate hose leaks, it can overboost the engine, and bad air intake rings can cause the engine to suck in grit. So, I ordered those parts right away.

I also noticed that my power steering pump is leaking at the front seal, so I ordered a new seal kit. I'm trying to spend as little money on my car as possible, but I have to keep it reliable and can't risk damaging it, either.

Squiggle Dog · #**184** 11-25-2011, 09:54 PM

Papalangi gave me this nice car cover when I visited. With all of the rain we've been having, my interior has been soaked. So, I'm going to try the cover to see if it helps keep the interior dry until I can replace the weatherstripping. It didn't rain today, so I opened the doors and trunk, sopped up the water, and let it air out before covering it. For being for a Ford Mustang notch, it fits my car very nicely, and I'm happy with it. I'm on the lookout for a nice blue left front door panel and maybe some other interior parts for his 450SEL to repay him for his generosity.

Squiggle Dog · #**185** 12-07-2011, 07:21 PM

My power steering pump was leaking at the front seal, so I decided to fix it before it got much worse. I ordered a new German DPH seal kit and took it apart. The pump was greasy and dirty, but wiping biodiesel on it made the grime dissolve almost instantly.

I used a large C-clamp to push in the rear cover of the pump so that I could remove the snap ring and pull out the shaft. The shaft had light grooving where the seal lips rode. I made sure the inside was nice and clean, replaced the shaft and rear cover seals, then punched out the roll pin so I could clean the valve and install a new O-ring.

After the pump was back together I gave it a good sanding followed by a thorough cleaning. I sprayed the housing with Krylon Rust Tough Zinc Rich Primer and Gloss Black Paint. It turned out well for the weather being 40 degrees Fahrenheit or less.

The belt was fairly new and the pulley just needed polishing. I wasn't able to tighten the belt properly before because the threaded plastic tensioner was broken, so I ordered a new one from The Mercedes-Benz Classic Center for a whopping $1.27. The original Sperry-Vickers lid was smooth, but I installed one from a ZF pump because it looks like the Mercedes logo.

I was able to keep overspray off of the label, shaft seal, and rear roll pin by carefully painting over them with bearing grease. After the paint dried, it peeled right off of these areas like masking tape, then I wiped the surfaces clean.

The filter was recently replaced, so I filled up the pump with Royal Purple Power Steering Fluid, turned the wheels a few time to purge the air bubbles while checking the fluid level, then went on a test drive. I was worried about the grooving on the shaft, but no leaks so far!

The total cost of refurbishing the pump before shipping (was free) or tax was $20.70 ($1.88 for the shaft seal, $2.35 for the O-ring kit, $7.99 for the primer, $5.49 for the paint, and $2.99 for the power steering fluid).

The low pressure hose was cracked, so I ordered a new one and cut it to the proper 430mm length. I also found some nice hose clamps with the star logo on them.

Squiggle Dog · #**186** 12-07-2011, 07:25 PM

I also purchased a new wastegate hose to replace the one that was heat bubbled and almost worn through. It was conveniently already cut to the proper 292mm length. I found some nice star logo hose clamps to replace the slicey USA-style ones. Some day I am going to get a boost gauge, then open up that wastegate and crank it up a bit to get more turbo boost.

My U-tube air intake seals were aged and deformed, so I replaced them with new ones. I also put a cap over the cold air intake port because the Euro headlights seal it off, making it useless. You can tell the 300SD was made entirely for the USA market because the original headlights floated, leaving a space for air to come in behind them.

So now my intake tube just floats in front of the hood opening and still takes in cool air.

You can see that cool air comes in from under the hood and now the intake tube works in the same way as the W123 chassis.

I also purchased a roof rack that will soon be installed. Here is a test fit before I attach the hardware and stain the planks.

suginami · #**187** 12-07-2011, 08:56 PM

Looks great!

W116's are among my favorite chassis.

I love reading about all of your upgrades and repairs.

Keep up the good work!

Squiggle Dog · #**188** 01-01-2012, 11:31 PM

I've spent the last two weeks working on the roof rack. The wood slats provided were raw pine.

I couldn't have them in the weather as they were, so I sanded them smooth with 220 grit sandpaper.

I sanded all of the edges and cleaned up the bolt holes.

One of the pieces was splintered.

I used wood glue and clamps to repair the splinter.

Squiggle Dog · #**189** 01-01-2012, 11:33 PM

After an hour and some sanding the repair was not noticeable.

I wiped on Minwax Pre-Stain Wood Conditioner before applying about 4 coats of Minwax Dark Walnut Wood Finish Stain, wiping off the excess.

This made the wood darker and almost like zebrano.

I filled in the knot depressions with Color Putty Wood Filler. Push in, wipe off.

Squiggle Dog · #**190** 01-01-2012, 11:35 PM

After staining I brushed on Minwax Helmsman High Gloss Spar Urethane. It has an amber hue which gave the wood a warmer appearance.

I applied 3 full coats, wet sanding with 220 grit and paint thinner between each coat. The first coat was rough, but after the third it was much more level.

Each side had to be brushed separately and allowed to dry for at least 4 hours. This was very time-consuming since I had 6 pieces to do. In fact, it took a solid week.

I then mixed some of the urethane 50/50 with paint thinner and applied it with a cloth. It dried faster and much smoother, without brush marks. I wet sanded with 600 grit and paint thinner and did three more thinned coats. The finish was glossy but there were small bits of dust and lint in it.

Squiggle Dog · #**191** 01-01-2012, 11:40 PM

I wasn't happy with the imperfections in the finish, but I have read many sources that say that spar urethane cannot be buffed out to a gloss because it is meant to be flexible and is too soft. I thought I would try anyway, so after waiting a week for it to cure, I got rid of a few runs with 800 grit sandpaper, then wet sanded the pieces with 1500 grit sandpaper, followed by 2000 grit sandpaper. This took me all day. It removed the gloss but the surface was very flat.

The next day I used Meguiar's rubbing compound, then polishing compound. This also took all day, but gave a nearly flawless finish that is glasslike and glossy.

The wood for the roof rack now almost matches the interior wood. It's only a little lighter, not nearly as much as the picture shows.

I had to add a few pieces of hardware; namely spacers and locking nuts so that I could actually tighten it. I added electrical tape to the mounting surface and scuffed it with 220 grit sandpaper so that it wouldn't slide.

I really like this roof rack and it accommodates the sunroof well.

Squiggle Dog · #**192** 01-01-2012, 11:41 PM

Squiggle Dog · #**193** 01-01-2012, 11:44 PM

The side clamps provided were too large, but I found a rubber strip that was the same width, so I cut it down and used it as a spacer. The slat clamps needed a bit of tweaking to get them to fit as well. These are some type of Asian manufacture, and true to form, they cut corners with the hardware.

Stretch · #**194** 01-02-2012, 03:06 AM

Wow that's one gucci roof rack.

suginami · #**195** 01-02-2012, 01:00 PM

It's beautiful.

What do you plan on using it for?