That's next on my list, too. My rockers are just embarrassing on an otherwise nice-looking car like mine.

Thanks everyone, for the advice. Unfortunately I'm stuck helping Dad all day then work ... but I'll update when I get time to find anything out.

__________________
1987 300D, arctic white/palomino--314,000 miles
1978 240D 4-speed, Euro Delivery, light ivory/bamboo--370,000 miles
2005 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited, light khaki/slate--140,000 miles
2018 Chevy Cruze diesel, 6-speed manual, satin steel metallic/kalahari--19,000 miles
1982 Peugeot 505 diesel, 4-speed manual, blue/blue, 130,000 miles
1995 S320, black/parchment--34,000 miles (Dad's car)

Well, I got the wheels off. I finally just took it to a nearby tire shop and had them break loose the bolts and tighten them to a more reasonable spec. I got one loose myself but no way was I going to do that 20 times. I think the tire shop guys thought I was an idiot damsel in distress, but oh well, I can't dazzle everyone. The guy who answered the phone said tire shops don't usually torque to factory spec because it "isn't ideal." Huh? The mechanic who did it for me was more sympathetic.
So, now I can get back to the original topic of this thread. Whenever I have free time. Maybe at 4 a.m.?

__________________
1987 300D, arctic white/palomino--314,000 miles
1978 240D 4-speed, Euro Delivery, light ivory/bamboo--370,000 miles
2005 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited, light khaki/slate--140,000 miles
2018 Chevy Cruze diesel, 6-speed manual, satin steel metallic/kalahari--19,000 miles
1982 Peugeot 505 diesel, 4-speed manual, blue/blue, 130,000 miles
1995 S320, black/parchment--34,000 miles (Dad's car)

Where'd you originally get the wheels put on? Last time I got new tires I went to Discount Tire, and taking the wheel off after that took nothing more than a foot on the tire iron. Sounds like you found a doofus.

PS interested to see how your suspension issues turn out (a pun?), mine is having similar problems. More information always good.

... it's coming from the shock. I disconnected the steering damper to rule that out, still made noise turning the wheel. So I disconnected the driver's side tie rod and turned steering knuckle by hand ... it made the noise very clearly. So I used my auto stethoscope, put it on the ball joint, no sound, they stuck it up in the shock bushing, and there was the sound, nice and amplified. With the driver's tie rod disconnected, turning the steering wheel, there is no noise. So this is apparently isolated to the driver's side shock. Good call, Sixto!

So ... now what? To reiterate history, I had these shocks installed at the tire shop. I don't have a spring compressor, don't have much time and was afraid to do a "dangerous" job at half-strength, so I paid for the labor. Do I take it back to that shop and let them screw it up more? My indy can't see it for a week, his shop is packed. Or should I try to fix this myself? My guess would be the bushing needs to be replaced, or maybe they torqued it down wrong at the top. Regardless of how I fix it, I've kind of mad that I paid $900 and got back a car with a squeaking shock, a messed-up trunk liner and lug nuts torqued on so tight I had to take it to another tire shop to get my wheels off (BTW, they were easy to get off after tire shop No. 2 torqued them on). On the other hand, my dad is friends with one of the guys that works there and always gets good deals from him ... I don't want to start a flap that ends in bad blood. Thoughts?
I guess I should focus on fixing the car first. Do you guys think it's OK to drive with the squeaking shock, at least to get it to one mechanic or the other?

__________________
1987 300D, arctic white/palomino--314,000 miles
1978 240D 4-speed, Euro Delivery, light ivory/bamboo--370,000 miles
2005 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited, light khaki/slate--140,000 miles
2018 Chevy Cruze diesel, 6-speed manual, satin steel metallic/kalahari--19,000 miles
1982 Peugeot 505 diesel, 4-speed manual, blue/blue, 130,000 miles
1995 S320, black/parchment--34,000 miles (Dad's car)

1st car Volvo "Amazon" ,Idiots @ tire store used air gun on wheels...
'Destroyed Two Rotors. (Circa 1978).

'Have permitted No One to use Air gun on ANY Vehicle,Period. 'Since.

If they aren't willing to do it by hand...
(With a Torque Wrench)
[Remove AND Replace]
Drive Away.

Heck,If I cannot SEE them work on the Auto ,it's no Deal.
I'll stand behind the "Insurance Safety Regulation Liability" rope/chain all day...
BUT if I cannot WATCH, What and How they're doing,Forget it!

I'd not worry about a squeaking shock/strut for a week or so.
(If that's all it is.)

__________________
'84 300SD sold
124.128

Lesson learned. Actually at the second shop the guy used an air gun, but he used a much lower setting and I had no trouble getting them off. Still, it's just not that hard to go around the car with a torque wrench by hand.

I guess for now I'll just put everything back together and wait until my indy will see it. I don't think it would be that hard to fix it myself now that I look at the FSM, but honestly I have no idea why it's squeaking so I'm not sure what to change? I guess I could start with the bushings at the top.

I'm thinking about changing the drag link while it's up ... the boots aren't torn but it seems a little sloppy when I grab it by hand.

__________________
1987 300D, arctic white/palomino--314,000 miles
1978 240D 4-speed, Euro Delivery, light ivory/bamboo--370,000 miles
2005 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited, light khaki/slate--140,000 miles
2018 Chevy Cruze diesel, 6-speed manual, satin steel metallic/kalahari--19,000 miles
1982 Peugeot 505 diesel, 4-speed manual, blue/blue, 130,000 miles
1995 S320, black/parchment--34,000 miles (Dad's car)

I was surprised how loose the ends of the MB label drag link were new from Phil compared to similar parts from China. Uro brand, for example.

Sixto
87 300D

I did notice the MB link on my 123 is also a bit loose (and it's a year old) so I figure they're designed that way. Although the one on my 124 is loose in a more inconsistant way ... i.e., it kind of sticks at some points of the range of motion, but it loose in others. If that makes sense.
Local dealer parts counter was closed today so I went up to one a few miles away ... they didn't even have the lock nuts so I could put the tie rod end back on ... the guy was like "We never see cars that old so we don't carry that stuff." That dealer is much snobbier than mine.

__________________
1987 300D, arctic white/palomino--314,000 miles
1978 240D 4-speed, Euro Delivery, light ivory/bamboo--370,000 miles
2005 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited, light khaki/slate--140,000 miles
2018 Chevy Cruze diesel, 6-speed manual, satin steel metallic/kalahari--19,000 miles
1982 Peugeot 505 diesel, 4-speed manual, blue/blue, 130,000 miles
1995 S320, black/parchment--34,000 miles (Dad's car)