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  #1  
Old 08-09-2010, 11:31 PM
zeke's Avatar
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What causes transmission flare when shifting into park?

As title says, but no flaring or other problem shifting into any other gear...Is this just a simple Bowden cable adjustment? (hope, hope)

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  #2  
Old 08-09-2010, 11:50 PM
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What you mean? Flaring is when the transmission slips and the engine RPM goes up between shifts, 1-2, 2-3, 3-4..
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  #3  
Old 08-10-2010, 04:26 AM
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When you go into park, the trans goes into neutral. As there is less load on the motor then, you should expect the rpm's to increase a little, they may drop back a bit soon after. When I had bad vibes because of a bad engine mount I often slipped it into neutral at the lights to reduce the vibes.
I hope that is what you were concerned about.
Flairing on change is like a slipping clutch in a manual.
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1967 230-6 auto parts car. rust bucket.
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1984 300D 500k miles
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  #4  
Old 08-10-2010, 07:10 AM
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high idle setting? how high does the motor rev in park?
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"as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do!

My drivers:
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
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1987 300TD
1987 300TD
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  #5  
Old 08-10-2010, 08:42 AM
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My 85 does this after I screwed with the idle adjustment screw on the IP. Once the car is hot and I go into park, I can hear the valve clatter increase as well as a rise in oil pressure. Tach doesn't register it but I don't trust that for accurately measuring engine RPMs.

I lowered the idle a bit since Bill's GTG. I had it set too high and pressing the "stop" switch wouldn't kill the engine.

For a high mileage engine like mine, I'm thinking of keeping it at that high of an idle. I know it masks symptoms, so if you want to send me a brand new timing chain and valve seals please do

I want to also replace my rack dampener eventually. I have a nice vibration at idle even with new mounts.
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Last edited by okyoureabeast; 08-10-2010 at 08:46 AM. Reason: x
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  #6  
Old 08-11-2010, 08:42 AM
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My tach isn't working, so I am only estimating based on the sound....

I would guess it revs up to somewhere like 2000 RPM, then comes back down - takes about a second.

I have not touched anything that is related to idle in a very long time. I did replace the blower motor in an effort to improve my alternator function....I also replaced most of my fuses.
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Current Mercedes
1979 maple yellow 240D 4-speed


Gone and fondly remembered:
1980 orient red 240D 4-speed

Gone and NOT fondly remembered:
1982 Chna Blue 300TD

Other car in the stable:
2013 VW Jetta Sportwagen TDI / 6-speed MT
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  #7  
Old 08-11-2010, 08:49 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zeke View Post
I did replace the blower motor in an effort to improve my alternator function....
And what affect did that have on your alternator?
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  #8  
Old 08-11-2010, 08:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tangofox007 View Post
And what affect did that have on your alternator?
I'm betting it reduced the load on it, if the old blower motor was running with seized or worn bearings.
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John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread
"as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do!

My drivers:
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!!

1987 300TD
1987 300TD
1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere!
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  #9  
Old 08-11-2010, 09:26 AM
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It did seem to reduce the load, but I am still not generating over 13V with multiple electrical accessories running;. If I turn on the lights + AC/blower I start to lose charge at idle. I just ordered new alt belts from Phil and I will replace when I get back home (on the road in it right now). I already replaced the voltage regulator, so this is my last gasp before pulling the whole dang unit.

But, that is the only thing (new junkyard blower and fuses) that has changed since it started doing the revving into park....

EDIT: BTW, after putting in the new/old blower, I am blowing 3-5* colder at the vents, so that is nice.
__________________

Current Mercedes
1979 maple yellow 240D 4-speed


Gone and fondly remembered:
1980 orient red 240D 4-speed

Gone and NOT fondly remembered:
1982 Chna Blue 300TD

Other car in the stable:
2013 VW Jetta Sportwagen TDI / 6-speed MT
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  #10  
Old 08-25-2010, 04:28 PM
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Ok, I want to update this thread.

I replaced the alternator belts, and so far the battery has not died.

BUT, the high revving when it is shifted into park has not stopped.

It doesn't do it every time, but when it does, idle steadily increases until the engine is killed or if I shift into a gear, when it returns to the normal idle. When I have done that, shifting back into park did not result in a runaway idle.

If anything the idle was a bit low when I originally posted, probably due to the load issue and also the bad belts on the alt. Adjusting the idle to a place where the engine smoothed out did not stop the problem either.

Any ideas?
__________________

Current Mercedes
1979 maple yellow 240D 4-speed


Gone and fondly remembered:
1980 orient red 240D 4-speed

Gone and NOT fondly remembered:
1982 Chna Blue 300TD

Other car in the stable:
2013 VW Jetta Sportwagen TDI / 6-speed MT
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  #11  
Old 08-25-2010, 04:51 PM
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Could it be a dirty (sticking) throttle butterfly that needs cleaning?
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  #12  
Old 08-25-2010, 04:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kestas View Post
Could it be a dirty (sticking) throttle butterfly that needs cleaning?
This is the "Diesel Discussion" forum!!!
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  #13  
Old 08-25-2010, 06:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kestas View Post
Could it be a dirty (sticking) throttle butterfly that needs cleaning?
Well, no BUT

Isn't it true that the only way this could be happening is if the throttle "slides" open? Like if the part of the linkage that goes vertical to the IP drops?

Seems like the throttle linkage is the most probable place. Hoe else could the engine increase revs at idle in park except by opening the throttle?

Not sure why that would happen though
__________________

Current Mercedes
1979 maple yellow 240D 4-speed


Gone and fondly remembered:
1980 orient red 240D 4-speed

Gone and NOT fondly remembered:
1982 Chna Blue 300TD

Other car in the stable:
2013 VW Jetta Sportwagen TDI / 6-speed MT
Reply With Quote
  #14  
Old 08-25-2010, 06:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by okyoureabeast View Post
My 85 does this after I screwed with the idle adjustment screw on the IP. Once the car is hot and I go into park, I can hear the valve clatter increase as well as a rise in oil pressure. Tach doesn't register it but I don't trust that for accurately measuring engine RPMs.

I lowered the idle a bit since Bill's GTG. I had it set too high and pressing the "stop" switch wouldn't kill the engine.

For a high mileage engine like mine, I'm thinking of keeping it at that high of an idle. I know it masks symptoms, so if you want to send me a brand new timing chain and valve seals please do

I want to also replace my rack dampener eventually. I have a nice vibration at idle even with new mounts.
Try adjusting your valves and get them balanced in all the cylinders. Made a big difference in my idle smoothness.
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  #15  
Old 08-25-2010, 06:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zeke View Post
Ok, I want to update this thread.

I replaced the alternator belts, and so far the battery has not died.

BUT, the high revving when it is shifted into park has not stopped.

It doesn't do it every time, but when it does, idle steadily increases until the engine is killed or if I shift into a gear, when it returns to the normal idle. When I have done that, shifting back into park did not result in a runaway idle.

If anything the idle was a bit low when I originally posted, probably due to the load issue and also the bad belts on the alt. Adjusting the idle to a place where the engine smoothed out did not stop the problem either.

Any ideas?
Get your tach working first so you know what rpm it's idling at!

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