I am trying to diagnose a side to side sway also. I can feel it in the front drivers side. Or at least I think that is where it is coming from???
Any suggestions?

Yes, post what car you're talking about.

Sixto
87 300D

85 300D turbo 234,000
its in my signature
The drivers front tire is wearing on the inside of the tire. The rest of the tires are wearing evenly
and it seems as tho there is some weird side to side motion like the lug nugs are not tight or something. I did check them. They are tight
I just replaced leaking power steering hose, and leaking primer pump, and drivers side motor mount.

Read up on rear subframe bushings. New bushings go a long way to keeping the front and rear axles on the same page.

My guess on the wear is either too much toe out or too much camber, either of which can contribute to wandering.

How much play is there in the steering wheel with the engine idling and wheels straight ahead? IIRC there shouldn't be more than an inch or even half an inch. Worn steering shaft couplings or looseness in the steering box can cause wandering, but you'd feel it through the need to correct your heading.

I take it you observe the swaying even when there aren't grooves in the surface.

Sixto
87 300D

I will have to double check. I dont recall a lot of play in the steering wheel. How can you tell if the subframe mounts are worn out?
No grooves in the road when this happens just seems random when it happens

I'm only familiar with the 126. There's a bracket in the shape of a salt shaker that sits under the rear suframe bushings by the jack points. There should be about 1cm clearance all around between the rubber and the bracket. If there's less clearance or uneven clearance, you likely need new subframe bushings.

You should probably replace the diff mount while you're at it. Definitely replace it if the inner piece with two bolts into the diff is sitting on the outer frame.

Sixto
87 300D

Your question/topic was moved for better answers.



Steering


Suspension


Steering
Steering:

Suspension
Suspension:




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thanks

OK, it seems there is play in the steering.
The wheel moves about 2" or so before the front wheels respond. I need to check the allan bolt on the steering box to tighten? Righty tighty lefty lucy????
I have checked the coupling...the rubber looking disc thing on the steering shaft, it does not appear to be worn or dry rot or cracking anywhere
Have any of you guys found a short cut to adjust out the play? The allen HAS to be replaced?

Read up on the steering box. If you're going to use the nut/screw combo on the box, I'd recommend you do the adjustment with the wheel turned, then check play with the wheel centered. What happens is the gears wear slightly in the dead center position eventually creating play in the steering. If you "dial out" the play at the center you may create binding or tight steering when it's off center in an unworn spot.

The "nut" is a lock nut, you'll loosen that then "unscrew" the shaft with the allen key a small amount. The other end of that shaft is held by a clip onto the steering arm so you're using that screw to "pull" the gears into a tighter spot then lock it back down by tightening the bolt.

You don't "replace" the allen screw.

First thing to wear out on a 126 is the tie rod ends. It sounds like you might have that plus a steering box that needs adjusting.

__________________
[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.

My vehicle is a 123
It sounds like there is another way to adjust other than the nut/screw?
Can you elaborate??
What do worn out tie rods look like? I dont want to guess and start throwing parts at this thing if it is not broken
Since I had so many leaks and do not know for how long everything was leaking I am wondering if the parts directly under the leaks are what the problems are...the leaks were: the power steering hose, it flowed down to the steering box and then directly below that onto some type of joint. I am guessing that is what ruined the motor mount, along with the diesel leak at the hand pump????

Check upper contol arm bushings, balljoints, and guide rod bushing, and also makke sure the tie rod ends, pitman arm, idler arm, and center drag link are up to snuff...no play.

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RRGrassi


70's Southern Pacific #5608 Fairmont A-4 MOW car

13 VW JSW 2.0 TDI 193K, Tuned with DPF and EGR Delete.

99 W210 E300 TD Turbo, chipped. Still needs EGR Delete, 228K

90 Dodge D250 5.9 Cummins/5 speed. 400K

OK thanks...

Look for torn rubber boots or brittle/crumbling rubber bushings.

Excessive wear on the inboard edge of the tire is symptom of bad camber that may potentially be due to a bad lower control arm (LCA) bushing. When your tires are straight ahead do the left & right appear symmetrical?

The LCA bushing is a medium-difficult repair due to the need for a special spring compressor and getting the parts out of the car. There are other things that cause odd wear, so your LCA may be okay. Got any repair history?