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#1
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mixing synthetic and non-synthetic brake fluid?
is it ok to flush a brake system that is currently filled with non-synthetic brake fluid with synthetic brake fluid?
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#2
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So long as you do a thorough flush leaving only synthetic in the brake system (including the ABS pump) when you are finished.
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![]() "Buster" in the '95 Our all-Diesel family 1996 E300D (W210) . .338,000 miles Wife's car 2005 E320 CDI . . 113,000 miles My car Santa Rosa population 176,762 (2022) Total. . . . . . . . . . . . 627,762 "Oh lord won't you buy me a Mercedes Benz." -- Janis Joplin, October 1, 1970 |
#3
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I think that all brake fluid is synthetic (non-petroleum), whether it is labeled as such or not. Can anyone confirm this?
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Stop paying for animal enslavement, cruelty, and slaughter. Save your health and the planet. Go vegan! I did 18 years ago. https://challenge22.com/ DON'T MESS WITH MY MERCEDES! ![]() 1967 W110 Universal Wagon, Euro, Turbo Diesel, Tail Fins, 4 Speed Manual Column Shift, A/C 1980 W116 300SD Turbo Diesel, DB479 Walnut Brown, Sunroof, Highly Optioned, 350,000+ Miles |
#4
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All conventional brake fluid is based on glycol ether's produced from petrochemicals.
There have been some silicone based fluids produced. I cant comment on their compatibility with conventional fluid. Best you contact the "synthetic" fluid manufacturer and ask. Any DOT 3 or 4 fluid is meant to be compatible with other DOT 3 or 4 fluids. Make sure if you are using a fluid that is not OEM type that it is compatible with the components of the system.
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Grumpy Old Diesel Owners Club group I no longer question authority, I annoy authority. More effect, less effort.... ![]() 1967 230-6 auto parts car. rust bucket. 1980 300D now parts car 800k miles 1984 300D 500k miles ![]() 1987 250td 160k miles English import ![]() 2001 jeep turbo diesel 130k miles ![]() 1998 jeep tdi ~ followed me home. Needs a turbo. 1968 Ford F750 truck. 6-354 diesel conversion. Other toys ~J.D.,Cat & GM ~ mainly earth moving |
#5
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I do not recommend using any silicone brake fluid in a benz. The synthetic stuff is fine as long as it has the right number of dots.
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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual. ![]() ..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis. |
#6
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how do you know it's non synthetic fluid in your car now? if the car's been stopping ok and you use dot 4 or 5.1 NOT DOT 5 fluid the only way to use dot 5 is to totally flush the lines completely devoid of any dot3 or 4 fluid. acetone flush followed by nitrogen flush is needed. as long as it's dot 4 or 5.1 it's ok.
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John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread "as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do! My drivers: 1987 190D 2.5Turbo 1987 560SL convertible 1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!! ![]() 1987 300TD 2005 Dodge Sprinter 2500 158"WB 1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere! |
#7
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Dot 3 and Dot 4 do not mix with Dot 5
As far as I remember 3 & 4 are polyethelene glycol based and are hygroscopic (they absorb water) Dot 5 is silicone based and does not absorb water. There are issues in that any water trapped in your brake system will collect in nooks and crannys and cause spot corrosion. The two types will not mix together. If you have a brand new brake system top to bottom you can put in Dot 5 with no issues but it is difficult to completely purge the old stuff out to change over. The difference between Dot 3 and 4 is primarily the higher boiling point. Dot 5 has a higher boiling point still , in addition to a different composition. Do you need a higher boiling point in your old Mercedes, how hard are you braking? Someone else can jump in here if I have mis-remembered. Cheers Dan
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It's always something simple 91 300D 603.960 (from japan) 194K 92 Toyota Diesel Landcruiser HDJ81-t 116K 02 Golf TDI new head courtesy of PO 87 300D 97 BMW 525 TDS Wagon 5spd bunch of Onan and other diesel generators |
#8
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Dot 5 fluid will not absorb water (good). It will, however, absorb air (not so good). With either one you sill still have to flush it out periodically. Just not as much with Dot 5. If your car is a restored trailer queen that sees limited miles Dot 5 would be a good choice. Otherwise stick with the Dot 4. Flushing out the old stuff to use Dot 5 is simply not worth the trouble. IMHO of course.
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'70 F100 shortbed '82 Diesel Westy '83 Euro 300TD Curtlo Viper Yeti ARC Surly long haul trucker |
#9
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**NOTE**
Silicone based fluid is NOT COMPATIBLE with conventional type fluid. Pro: it does not absorb water or damage paint. Con: it is harsher on rubber parts and braking systems must be totally free of any other type of fluid before putting it in.
I have used it on a street/track auto cross car and it has such a high boiling point that there was no brake fade. It's best suited for competition use. Also, a dealership mechanic told me, two weeks ago, that DOT 3 & 4 are technically compatible but should not be mixed. "Use one to completely flush the system of the other." He couldn't remember the exact chemical reasons why.
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1987 300D (230,000 mi on a #14 head-watching the temp gauge and keeping the ghost in the machine) Raleigh NC - Home of deep fried sushi! |
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