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  #121  
Old 01-06-2011, 08:58 PM
BodhiBenz1987's Avatar
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gsxr View Post
IIRC, access to the strainer area is a real nuisance with the subframe fully installed. Siphon the tank empty first and there should be only a quart or two of fuel left, so you'll get just a sprinkle instead of a bath. A large socket (46mm, like this one) is needed to unscrew the strainer.
Rats, then I should have ordered a strainer while I was at the dealer today ... sure they would have had to order it but woulda had it by Saturday. Maybe if I call them tomorrow morning, they can get it for me. Would I just need the strainer and hose? I'm sure they have the hose on hand there.

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1978 240D 4-speed, Euro Delivery, light ivory/bamboo--370,000 miles
2005 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited, light khaki/slate--140,000 miles
2018 Chevy Cruze diesel, 6-speed manual, satin steel metallic/kalahari--19,000 miles
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  #122  
Old 01-06-2011, 09:14 PM
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Originally Posted by BodhiBenz1987 View Post
Rats, then I should have ordered a strainer while I was at the dealer today ... sure they would have had to order it but woulda had it by Saturday. Maybe if I call them tomorrow morning, they can get it for me. Would I just need the strainer and hose? I'm sure they have the hose on hand there.
On the diesel, I would be sorely tempted to just remove your existing strainer screen entirely. I've heard of other people having it clog up and then need to pull it for cleaning. With it gone, the crud would collect at the plastic pre-filter near the IP where it's far easier to clean. All you'd need to get is a new O-ring for your existing strainer.

The hoses are not plain/bulk hose, one has a metal fitting, the other is formed:

116-470-14-75 - Fuel supply hose
124-476-03-26 - Fuel return hose
124-470-01-06 - Fuel tank strainer (comes with new O-ring)
110-997-01-45 - O-ring for strainer (if you remove the screen on your existing one)

I changed a couple of the other rubber items as well while I was down there. Inspect the condition of everything before you place the order...


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  #123  
Old 01-07-2011, 12:50 AM
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Thanks gsxr ... I think I'll just replace the screen as I'll be (possibly irrationally) afraid of random chunks of things ending up in the tank and clogging up the steel lines if I just take it out entirely.

Another question back on the subframe ... on the axle nuts, it says to lubricate first ... is regular antiseize from the auto parts store OK? It doesn't specify a lubricant. Generating 200-240 nm of torque is going to be a challenge for me, but I'll have to figure that out.
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1987 300D, arctic white/palomino--314,000 miles
1978 240D 4-speed, Euro Delivery, light ivory/bamboo--370,000 miles
2005 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited, light khaki/slate--140,000 miles
2018 Chevy Cruze diesel, 6-speed manual, satin steel metallic/kalahari--19,000 miles
1982 Peugeot 505 diesel, 4-speed manual, blue/blue, 130,000 miles
1995 S320, black/parchment--34,000 miles (Dad's car)
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  #124  
Old 01-07-2011, 12:08 PM
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Originally Posted by BodhiBenz1987 View Post
Another question back on the subframe ... on the axle nuts, it says to lubricate first ... is regular antiseize from the auto parts store OK? It doesn't specify a lubricant. Generating 200-240 nm of torque is going to be a challenge for me, but I'll have to figure that out.
I normally use clean engine oil when they don't specify otherwise. Antiseize may be ok as well. Just don't use ATF. The ~220Nm torque isn't as bad as it sounds, I wouldn't worry about it. Doing the final +90 turn on head bolts or crank pulley bolts is far worse....!

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  #125  
Old 01-07-2011, 06:03 PM
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Originally Posted by gsxr View Post
I normally use clean engine oil when they don't specify otherwise. Antiseize may be ok as well. Just don't use ATF. The ~220Nm torque isn't as bad as it sounds, I wouldn't worry about it. Doing the final +90 turn on head bolts or crank pulley bolts is far worse....!

I guess to start I may have to get a bigger torque wrench as mine's limit is 200 and I'd rather hit something in the middle of the range. Maybe this is a stupid question, but is there something you can use with an impact wrench that limits the torque like a torque wrench. Something like that would make life 10X easier when it comes to the 12 inner axles nuts from a standpoint of not turning the axles... though I guess they'll be pretty easy when I get everything attached and put the parking brake on + a jack under a lug nut.
One new question ... I noticed one of the rear differential mounts is ever so slightly twisted clockwise (just the inside portion of it, that is), and it concerns me. When I loosen the bolt, it pops back to straight, but every time I torque it down, it twists. In the FSM I see there's a bracket-like tool used when putting the bolts in ... should I try to find one or is there a clever way to keep the inner part of the bushing from turning? It's only about 3 degrees off so it's not a panic but I'm guessing if left like that it will wear prematurely, and I'd rather avoid that.
Progress-wise I rolled the frame back under the car and it's ready to go up (tomorrow, because I'm working until 12:30 tonight). So getting close. I think I'm going to skip the tank strainer for now and just suffer through it later (since I know it can be done with subframe et al in place). I'd rather do it as a separate project in the spring/summer, and focus on getting this one done and done right.
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1987 300D, arctic white/palomino--314,000 miles
1978 240D 4-speed, Euro Delivery, light ivory/bamboo--370,000 miles
2005 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited, light khaki/slate--140,000 miles
2018 Chevy Cruze diesel, 6-speed manual, satin steel metallic/kalahari--19,000 miles
1982 Peugeot 505 diesel, 4-speed manual, blue/blue, 130,000 miles
1995 S320, black/parchment--34,000 miles (Dad's car)
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  #126  
Old 01-09-2011, 03:57 AM
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Linkage not torqued down yet but ...


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1987 300D, arctic white/palomino--314,000 miles
1978 240D 4-speed, Euro Delivery, light ivory/bamboo--370,000 miles
2005 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited, light khaki/slate--140,000 miles
2018 Chevy Cruze diesel, 6-speed manual, satin steel metallic/kalahari--19,000 miles
1982 Peugeot 505 diesel, 4-speed manual, blue/blue, 130,000 miles
1995 S320, black/parchment--34,000 miles (Dad's car)
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  #127  
Old 01-09-2011, 01:23 PM
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You did install the heat-shields for the later brakes after all of that trouble?
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  #128  
Old 01-09-2011, 01:33 PM
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You did install the heat-shields for the later brakes after all of that trouble?
Actually, as shown, the rear dust shield is rotated in the wrong position. It will need to be turned prior to final assembly. I'm guessing it's too late to consider swapping to the larger dust shield, but you are correct that would have been nice to do for a future brake upgrade. Note that the later / larger dust shield would have to be notched to allow the small 258mm caliper to fit. The 278x9 rears from the M104 cars (or '87 wagon) would be a nice upgrade without upsetting the bias much.

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  #129  
Old 01-09-2011, 02:54 PM
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Actually, as shown, the rear dust shield is rotated in the wrong position. It will need to be turned prior to final assembly. I'm guessing it's too late to consider swapping to the larger dust shield, but you are correct that would have been nice to do for a future brake upgrade. Note that the later / larger dust shield would have to be notched to allow the small 258mm caliper to fit. The 278x9 rears from the M104 cars (or '87 wagon) would be a nice upgrade without upsetting the bias much.

Yeah ... I just left the old ones on. I didn't even know about an upgrade. I had my mechanic press the bearings in and out and it didn't occur to me the shields should be changed. I just replaced the calipers and hoses this summer, plain old stock.
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1987 300D, arctic white/palomino--314,000 miles
1978 240D 4-speed, Euro Delivery, light ivory/bamboo--370,000 miles
2005 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited, light khaki/slate--140,000 miles
2018 Chevy Cruze diesel, 6-speed manual, satin steel metallic/kalahari--19,000 miles
1982 Peugeot 505 diesel, 4-speed manual, blue/blue, 130,000 miles
1995 S320, black/parchment--34,000 miles (Dad's car)
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  #130  
Old 01-10-2011, 12:29 AM
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I just finished one side, it took me about two hours ... I'm so slow ... but, I'm thorough. The only nut I couldn't find a way to get a torque wrench on was the one on the frame side of the torque arm. I basically just turned it as hard as I could with a long open-ended wrench but hopefully can find a way to put the 70nm on it because I like to be sure ... I have a crow's foot set but it wouldn't reach in there. The FSM shows something that looks like a long crow's foot.
I hit my limit on cold, so I'll have to do the other side tomorrow, hopefully will go a little faster now that I know my way around.
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1987 300D, arctic white/palomino--314,000 miles
1978 240D 4-speed, Euro Delivery, light ivory/bamboo--370,000 miles
2005 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited, light khaki/slate--140,000 miles
2018 Chevy Cruze diesel, 6-speed manual, satin steel metallic/kalahari--19,000 miles
1982 Peugeot 505 diesel, 4-speed manual, blue/blue, 130,000 miles
1995 S320, black/parchment--34,000 miles (Dad's car)
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  #131  
Old 01-10-2011, 12:32 AM
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There's no heat in that wonderful garage of yours? Surely there's electrical and you could use a space heater?
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  #132  
Old 01-10-2011, 12:42 AM
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Originally Posted by TylerH860 View Post
There's no heat in that wonderful garage of yours? Surely there's electrical and you could use a space heater?
Nope, no heat. But yes, there's a GFI outlet every 8 feet, so I'll probably pick out a space heater of some sort in the near future. Just to point in my area as I work, I'd never leave it running unattended. I was fine when it was 40 degrees out, the garage is well-insulted and other than cold tools, was livable. Not so much at 15 degrees!
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1987 300D, arctic white/palomino--314,000 miles
1978 240D 4-speed, Euro Delivery, light ivory/bamboo--370,000 miles
2005 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited, light khaki/slate--140,000 miles
2018 Chevy Cruze diesel, 6-speed manual, satin steel metallic/kalahari--19,000 miles
1982 Peugeot 505 diesel, 4-speed manual, blue/blue, 130,000 miles
1995 S320, black/parchment--34,000 miles (Dad's car)
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  #133  
Old 01-10-2011, 12:31 PM
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My garage isn't heated, but a 15,000BTU/h multi-fuel "torpedo" heater will give me gloveless working conditions in less than 10minutes on pennies of diesel fuel.

After a good air compressor, the best Christmas present for the garage IMO.
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  #134  
Old 01-10-2011, 12:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by babymog View Post
My garage isn't heated, but a 15,000BTU/h multi-fuel "torpedo" heater will give me gloveless working conditions in less than 10minutes on pennies of diesel fuel.

After a good air compressor, the best Christmas present for the garage IMO.
ding ding ding! good quick heat... kinda smelly, but after all, you're working on a diesel.

I prefer radiant in floor heat... MUCH nicer working conditions.

not difficult to build one from an electric water heater and some antifreeze!
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  #135  
Old 01-13-2011, 09:09 PM
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Almost done guys. I'm so slow. But I got both sides torqued up at 15-inch ride height, both springs in (had to separate inner spring link as gsxr suggested, will torque once the car's down), both parking brakes on. I just need to pick up a few nuts and bolts (I lost the little that goes in the sensor on the diff, and need to replace the flex disc nuts, rotor screws and swaybar end bolts on principle) and another quart of Mobil 1 gear oil. Hoping to finish this weekend and get an alignment (then new tires) next week.

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1987 300D, arctic white/palomino--314,000 miles
1978 240D 4-speed, Euro Delivery, light ivory/bamboo--370,000 miles
2005 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited, light khaki/slate--140,000 miles
2018 Chevy Cruze diesel, 6-speed manual, satin steel metallic/kalahari--19,000 miles
1982 Peugeot 505 diesel, 4-speed manual, blue/blue, 130,000 miles
1995 S320, black/parchment--34,000 miles (Dad's car)
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