A subframe question (just the beginning ...) - Page 9 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

BodhiBenz1987 · #**121** 01-06-2011, 08:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gsxr

IIRC, access to the strainer area is a real nuisance with the subframe fully installed. Siphon the tank empty first and there should be only a quart or two of fuel left, so you'll get just a sprinkle instead of a bath. A large socket (46mm, like

this one) is needed to unscrew the strainer.

Rats, then I should have ordered a strainer while I was at the dealer today ... sure they would have had to order it but woulda had it by Saturday. Maybe if I call them tomorrow morning, they can get it for me. Would I just need the strainer and hose? I'm sure they have the hose on hand there.

gsxr · #**122** 01-06-2011, 09:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BodhiBenz1987

Rats, then I should have ordered a strainer while I was at the dealer today ... sure they would have had to order it but woulda had it by Saturday. Maybe if I call them tomorrow morning, they can get it for me. Would I just need the strainer and hose? I'm sure they have the hose on hand there.

On the diesel, I would be sorely tempted to just remove your existing strainer screen entirely. I've heard of other people having it clog up and then need to pull it for cleaning. With it gone, the crud would collect at the plastic pre-filter near the IP where it's far easier to clean. All you'd need to get is a new O-ring for your existing strainer.

The hoses are not plain/bulk hose, one has a metal fitting, the other is formed:

116-470-14-75 - Fuel supply hose
124-476-03-26 - Fuel return hose
124-470-01-06 - Fuel tank strainer (comes with new O-ring)
110-997-01-45 - O-ring for strainer (if you remove the screen on your existing one)

I changed a couple of the other rubber items as well while I was down there. Inspect the condition of everything before you place the order...

BodhiBenz1987 · #**123** 01-07-2011, 12:50 AM

Thanks gsxr ... I think I'll just replace the screen as I'll be (possibly irrationally) afraid of random chunks of things ending up in the tank and clogging up the steel lines if I just take it out entirely.

Another question back on the subframe ... on the axle nuts, it says to lubricate first ... is regular antiseize from the auto parts store OK? It doesn't specify a lubricant. Generating 200-240 nm of torque is going to be a challenge for me, but I'll have to figure that out.

gsxr · #**124** 01-07-2011, 12:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BodhiBenz1987

Another question back on the subframe ... on the axle nuts, it says to lubricate first ... is regular antiseize from the auto parts store OK? It doesn't specify a lubricant. Generating 200-240 nm of torque is going to be a challenge for me, but I'll have to figure that out.

I normally use clean engine oil when they don't specify otherwise. Antiseize may be ok as well. Just don't use ATF. The ~220Nm torque isn't as bad as it sounds, I wouldn't worry about it. Doing the final +90° turn on head bolts or crank pulley bolts is far worse....!

BodhiBenz1987 · #**125** 01-07-2011, 06:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gsxr

I normally use clean engine oil when they don't specify otherwise. Antiseize may be ok as well. Just don't use ATF. The ~220Nm torque isn't as bad as it sounds, I wouldn't worry about it. Doing the final +90° turn on head bolts or crank pulley bolts is far worse....!

I guess to start I may have to get a bigger torque wrench as mine's limit is 200 and I'd rather hit something in the middle of the range.

Maybe this is a stupid question, but is there something you can use with an impact wrench that limits the torque like a torque wrench. Something like that would make life 10X easier when it comes to the 12 inner axles nuts from a standpoint of not turning the axles... though I guess they'll be pretty easy when I get everything attached and put the parking brake on + a jack under a lug nut.

One new question ... I noticed one of the rear differential mounts is ever so slightly twisted clockwise (just the inside portion of it, that is), and it concerns me. When I loosen the bolt, it pops back to straight, but every time I torque it down, it twists. In the FSM I see there's a bracket-like tool used when putting the bolts in ... should I try to find one or is there a clever way to keep the inner part of the bushing from turning? It's only about 3 degrees off so it's not a panic but I'm guessing if left like that it will wear prematurely, and I'd rather avoid that.

Progress-wise I rolled the frame back under the car and it's ready to go up (tomorrow, because I'm working until 12:30 tonight). So getting close.

I think I'm going to skip the tank strainer for now and just suffer through it later (since I know it can be done with subframe et al in place). I'd rather do it as a separate project in the spring/summer, and focus on getting this one done and done right.

BodhiBenz1987 · #**126** 01-09-2011, 03:57 AM

Linkage not torqued down yet but ...

babymog · #**127** 01-09-2011, 01:23 PM

You did install the heat-shields for the later brakes after all of that trouble?

gsxr · #**128** 01-09-2011, 01:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by babymog

You did install the heat-shields for the later brakes after all of that trouble?

Actually, as shown, the rear dust shield is rotated in the wrong position. It will need to be turned prior to final assembly. I'm guessing it's too late to consider swapping to the larger dust shield, but you are correct that would have been nice to do for a future brake upgrade. Note that the later / larger dust shield would have to be notched to allow the small 258mm caliper to fit. The 278x9 rears from the M104 cars (or '87 wagon) would be a nice upgrade without upsetting the bias much.

BodhiBenz1987 · #**129** 01-09-2011, 02:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gsxr

Actually, as shown, the rear dust shield is rotated in the wrong position. It will need to be turned prior to final assembly. I'm guessing it's too late to consider swapping to the larger dust shield, but you are correct that would have been nice to do for a future brake upgrade. Note that the later / larger dust shield would have to be notched to allow the small 258mm caliper to fit. The 278x9 rears from the M104 cars (or '87 wagon) would be a nice upgrade without upsetting the bias much.

Yeah ... I just left the old ones on. I didn't even know about an upgrade.

I had my mechanic press the bearings in and out and it didn't occur to me the shields should be changed. I just replaced the calipers and hoses this summer, plain old stock.

BodhiBenz1987 · #**130** 01-10-2011, 12:29 AM

I just finished one side, it took me about two hours ... I'm so slow ... but, I'm thorough.

The only nut I couldn't find a way to get a torque wrench on was the one on the frame side of the torque arm. I basically just turned it as hard as I could with a long open-ended wrench but hopefully can find a way to put the 70nm on it because I like to be sure ... I have a crow's foot set but it wouldn't reach in there. The FSM shows something that looks like a long crow's foot.
I hit my limit on cold, so I'll have to do the other side tomorrow, hopefully will go a little faster now that I know my way around.

TylerH860 · #**131** 01-10-2011, 12:32 AM

There's no heat in that wonderful garage of yours? Surely there's electrical and you could use a space heater?

BodhiBenz1987 · #**132** 01-10-2011, 12:42 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TylerH860

There's no heat in that wonderful garage of yours? Surely there's electrical and you could use a space heater?

Nope, no heat. But yes, there's a GFI outlet every 8 feet, so I'll probably pick out a space heater of some sort in the near future. Just to point in my area as I work, I'd never leave it running unattended. I was fine when it was 40 degrees out, the garage is well-insulted and other than cold tools, was livable. Not so much at 15 degrees!

babymog · #**133** 01-10-2011, 12:31 PM

My garage isn't heated, but a 15,000BTU/h multi-fuel "torpedo" heater will give me gloveless working conditions in less than 10minutes on pennies of diesel fuel.

After a good air compressor, the best Christmas present for the garage IMO.

vstech · #**134** 01-10-2011, 12:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by babymog

My garage isn't heated, but a 15,000BTU/h multi-fuel "torpedo" heater will give me gloveless working conditions in less than 10minutes on pennies of diesel fuel.

After a good air compressor, the best Christmas present for the garage IMO.

ding ding ding! good quick heat... kinda smelly, but after all, you're working on a diesel.

I prefer radiant in floor heat... MUCH nicer working conditions.

not difficult to build one from an electric water heater and some antifreeze!

BodhiBenz1987 · #**135** 01-13-2011, 09:09 PM

Almost done guys. I'm so slow.

But I got both sides torqued up at 15-inch ride height, both springs in (had to separate inner spring link as gsxr suggested, will torque once the car's down), both parking brakes on. I just need to pick up a few nuts and bolts (I lost the little that goes in the sensor on the diff, and need to replace the flex disc nuts, rotor screws and swaybar end bolts on principle) and another quart of Mobil 1 gear oil. Hoping to finish this weekend and get an alignment (then new tires) next week.

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