It started as a brake job

[tlynch]

I am way overdue to replace pads on my '95 E300D.

Before jacking it up, I wanted to inspect the jacking points, which led me to taking the cladding off the rocker panels. I discovered dirt and gravel, trapped by the plastic, but the jack points look good. Up front, I discovered that there is some damp leaves and what not trapped behind the metal, not making it out of the drain holes. It looks like getting at it would be easier if I took the plastic cladding off the front fender.

Having seen me work before, I urged caution and research before I break 15 year-old plastic. Now I am trying to find out how that fender cladding is attached. I don't see any screws for it in the wheel well, so I assume it clips or slides on. Any one have any details?

I'll take photos and post later so the next guy will have something to go on before diving in.

Thanks!
Tom Lynch

[tlynch]

Hey, maybe this is why I sometimes see ants crawling on the driver's door:


And on the passenger door:


Where'd these rocks come from?


Maybe I can get to work on the brakes after lunch.

Tom

[jonbobshinigin]

Haha, how on earth do rocks that size get up in there!?!?

[pawoSD]

Driving down a gravel road, they get flung up behind the splash shield most likely. I've found rocks in our W126's too.

[compress ignite]

Throw Debris "Off" in a forward direction.
[Hint: Look at the Little Lip formed by the Cladding at the bottom of the Rear
Wheel Well on a W124 chassis.I found enough rocks and sand (Left by P.O.)
to fill a coffee cup, on each side]

[tlynch]

Originally Posted by jonbobshinigin

Haha, how on earth do rocks that size get up in there!?!?

Those rocks were at the rear of the plastic over the driver side rocker panel. Too big for the rock chips on an asphalt road around here. My guess is a previous owner was on a dirt road at least once.

By the way, discovered that there is an 8mm bolt under the front fender plastic panels at the front of that plastic panel. I was able to wedge a wrench up there to get the rocker covers off. Not sure how I'm going to get them back in. Maybe someone will wander by with the secret knowledge needed to get that piece of plastic off the fender.

Regards,
Tom

[tlynch]

Yup. It was time:

[tlynch]

By the way, I've been using the Bentley Mercedes-Benz E-Class (W124) Owners Bible as my shop guide. The illustrations have been very good. If you don't have one, here are some shots on the front.


Yup. Front brakes:


Pop the little pastic cover open, and unplug the sensor:


Undo the lower sliding pin bolt on the back, and rotate the caliper up. 13mm socket, and a thinnish 15mm open end wrench to keep the pin from spinning:


Wire the caliper to the strut so you can work:



Tom

[tlynch]

Didn't take any pictures of reassembly, since I was rushing in to watch the Longhorns. It was pretty simple, though.

When the caliper is rotated up, the pad carrier stays in place. Slide the new pads in where the old ones come out. I brushed a lot of dust off before I put new pads in. Also put a dab of grease on the edges of the pad backing.

The little rubber booties on the sliding pins were in good shape, so I didn't replace them. I already had the parts kit on hand, though. The universal kit is about $5 at AutoZone.

To retract the piston, I used a C-clamp and one of the old pads. My daughter watched the level in the brake fluid reservoir when I did this for the passenger side, since I couldn't see it from there. I did not need to remove any fluid when I did both sides on the front, but it is pretty full, and I expect to take some out when I do the back brakes later. Part of my strategy is to go to a brake shop and let them flush and fill the system, so I'm not stressing over the fluid too much at this point.

We'll see if I get to the rear brakes after the game.

Tom

[tbomachines]

Nice pictures!! You'll be happy you cleared that debris out of the drain holes, after a few years that will easily equal rust.

[vstech]

you should now drain all the fluid from the reservoir, and fill with fresh fluid, then bleed the calipers from the rear to the front, keeping the fluid full.

[tlynch]

The rear pads were in pretty good shape, I think, so I just cleaned stuff off, greased the backs and put them back in.



Yup. Thats a brake.



Note how the two spring pieces criss-cross, and the long one goes under the pins.



No picture for this, but you have to drive those two pins out. I used a nail set as a punch.

With pins out, the springs fall off, and it is easy to slide the pads out.


No picture of this either, but a pair of channel lock pliers works great for squeezing each pad and the outside of the caliper to retract the piston. Gotta do that for both pads. The fixed caliper has a piston on each side.

By the way, I brushed a TON of brake dust off and out of the caliper.

Tom

[tlynch]

Sorry, no pictures of reassembly. Gotta clean up for the neighborhood poker game.

I will mention that what worked for me was to put the pads in place, and slide the top pin in. Then I hooked the long spring under the pin and wedged the little cross piece into place. Then you can depress the lower side of the long spring while you slide the lower pin in. I tapped all pins gently home with a hammer.

Wheels went back on. Lowered the car off the jack stands, and remembered to tighten the lug bolts after everything was on the ground. Pumped the brakes to get past squishy, and took a test drive. I went through multiple cycles of speeding up and slowing down, working up from very slow to 45 mph.

No weird sounds of pads dragging while going. No weird sounds or feel when stopping. I declare victory!

Regards,
Tom

[tlynch]

Tomorrow, I'll put the plastic cladding back on. Any dampness up under there should be nice and dry before reassembly. Now, if I could just find out the definitive way to get the plastic piece off the fender so I can get those two bolts on the front of the rocker panel covers.

Regards,
Tom

[vstech]

DON"T FORGET
you should replace all the brake fluid every 2 years, so NOW is as good a time as any!
get the job done right. replace all the fluid.
keep your newly repacked calipers from locking up!
flush all the fluid and fill with your favorite brand of DOT4 brake fluid!