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#31
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Anybody put a timing chain on without the crimper? If so how?
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#32
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Back it up a little - anyone buy an intact chain? I've only seen open chains.
Sixto 87 300D |
#33
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I don't recall why, but have always been under the impression they were available.
like through MB. but never seen one.... except in an engine. |
#34
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I tried only one dealer when I built the 3.0 for the 93 SD. They only had an open chain. I took the parts counter agent's word for it.
I had to put the chain on with the crank and cam at TDC and the IP with the lock in place. When the chain was tensioned and crank and cam timing confirmed, I timed the IP. Not fun even with the engine on a stand. Does the 617 FSM have a section on installing an intact chain? Is there a TDC indicator on the IP timer? Come to think of it, I've never looked for a master link in a known factory installed chain. Sixto 87 300D |
#35
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I am drawing a blank on the mark... if there is one, it is a triangle on the detachable cam plate.
The manual does not give direction on using a closed chain. It does note, however: The split timing chain with connecting link is used for repairs. If only an endless timing chain is available, the chain can be opened prior to installation (refer to item 3). During an engine overhaul, always install an endless timing chain. I make a point to read the chain. I think you can get alot of info about how the engine was treated. On a 617 I like to think I can tell a factory chain.. the peening marks are all the same and that blue link is nowhere to be found. How come you couldn't "roll" the new chain in? Thats sounds rather frustrating trying to line all that stuff up and guess the amount of links between gears. |
#36
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I couldn't roll in a new chain because I paired a 3.5 head and IP with a 3.0 short block. I didn't consider reusing an old closed chain.
Sixto 87 300D |
#37
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All I was talking about was cremping a chain without a chain cremper, anybody do it?
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#38
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Not on a diesel engine. With a ball peen hammer and backing block. Long time ago. Wasn't the prettiest, but worked.
Here's some info (not my work):http://190rev.net/forums/archive/index.php?t-26201.html
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92 300D 2.5L OM602 OBK #59 |
#39
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The crimper, when available, is so much better. Not to say it can't be done without, but it's such a critical piece, you don't want it to fail.
Things to be careful of: When crimping, you don't want side-loads from your hammer/anvil on the timing gear, bad. When crimped, you want to ensure that the crimp is secure and has no cracks in the crimp that could fail and have the peened portion simply fall off (happens). Further, you want the newly crimped (peened) link to flex normally, not feel tight. It can be done, but I'm planning to buy or rent the crimper when I do this, I've done a lot of bicycle chains and having the correct tool made SUCH a difference (also used for removal).
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Gone to the dark side - Jeff |
#40
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Any head is. They are far more known for weak headgaskets.
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http://superturbodiesel.com/images/sig.04.10.jpg 1995 E420 Schwarz 1995 E300 Weiss #1987 300D Sturmmachine #1991 300D Nearly Perfect #1994 E320 Cabriolet #1995 E320 Touring #1985 300D Sedan OBK #42 |
#41
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Quote:
Sixto 87 300D |
#42
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Thinking about buying one, Ill need it for this 300D and my 190D.
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#43
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Check whether the 601 has a single width or double width chain so you get an appropriate crimper. Some crimpers are single width, some are double width, some can be configured.
Sixto 87 300D |
#44
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Quote:
601 and 602 have the double row chain. |
#45
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I have the chain crimper on the way, how do you attatch the new chain to the old chain when you are feeding the new chain in the motor?
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