No link but I'll try to talk you through it. Disconnect the battery ground. Unplug the wire at the alternator. One 17 mm bolt attaches the tension bracket to the motor (remove first, right under the thermostat housing) You'll need a flex head ratchet to make it easy. One 17 mm bolt attaches the alternator to the motor on the bottom (you'll have to go under the car and remove second). The alternator will now hit you in the head! I have described the most direct way of doing it as I know others will chime in. This way the tension bracket will come out with the alternator under the car. You can do it without removing the bracket from the car as well. I think you need to see for yourself how the bracket attaches to the alternator though. Simple yet hard to describe. Remove the 17mm bolt on the back of the tension assembly BEFORE you turn the 13mm tension bolt. I hope this helps.

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'70 F100 shortbed
'82 Diesel Westy
'83 Euro 300TD
Curtlo Viper
Yeti ARC
Surly long haul trucker

Not without bending some metal.

I think you mean "Loosen the nut on the back of the bolt." The bolt runs front to rear and cannot be removed until the tensioner is fully run out, which cannot happen until the tension bracket is removed from the mounting bracket.

Correct, I meant nut, not bolt. Thanks.
The bracket can stay on the car without damage to remove the alternator. I've done it many times to save the trouble of backing out the bolt on the block. The tension bolt can also be removed from the bracket while still on the car. Just spin it clockwise and it comes out underneath the fan belt. Mounting the alt back onto it can be a pita for someone who hasn't done it before. Lining up the bushing etc.. Hence the suggestion of leaving it on the alternator so the owner could see how it looks.

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'70 F100 shortbed
'82 Diesel Westy
'83 Euro 300TD
Curtlo Viper
Yeti ARC
Surly long haul trucker

On the vehicles that I have dealt with, the alternator will not move far enough remove the adjusting rod from the adjusting nut with the bracket installed. (Movement of the alternator is physically blocked before it can get to the end of the track.) There are likely a few cars out there in which someone had cut a few mm off the rod to avoid the problem of having to remove the bracket. Or maybe not all adjusting rods were of the same length to start with.

Bottom line: If you cannot run the adjusting rod out of the nut, remove the bracket. If you don't want to have to remove the bracket next time, cut 5/16" off the threaded rod.

I forgot. One more thing. You should loosen the tension on the belts first or it will be a pita no matter which way you do it! Have Fun

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'70 F100 shortbed
'82 Diesel Westy
'83 Euro 300TD
Curtlo Viper
Yeti ARC
Surly long haul trucker