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  #16  
Old 10-05-2010, 01:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian Carlton View Post
Thanks.

That begs the question of what retains the joint if a snap ring is not utilized..........it cannot be a simply light press...........??
The snap ring is only used on the side that goes to the wheel (the side that cannot be removed) the side that is removable (side that goes to the differential) DOES "NOT" Have a snap ring or else there would be no where to get the CV boot in

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  #17  
Old 10-05-2010, 02:20 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pixelsblack009 View Post
The snap ring is only used on the side that goes to the wheel (the side that cannot be removed) the side that is removable (side that goes to the differential) DOES "NOT" Have a snap ring or else there would be no where to get the CV boot in
The usual procedure to reboot the axles consists using a special tool to cut the "can" at the axle's end, then the entire spider still on the axle is removed. If there where a clip it would then be removed and the spider hub is pressed off the axle shaft. Everything is cleaned and inspected, as long as the parts are not overly worn the parts are reassembled with a new "can" inner section put on the axle first, then the spider hub is reassembled into the axle's end. Then a new outer can with the two rubber seal rings is put in place over the axle's end, the complete axle is placed in a crimping tool and the two parts of the axle can are pressed/crimped together, the axle spider is lubed and the boot fitted into place and clamped there.

The later axles do not use the lock ring as the spider hub is pressed onto the axle at a minimum force of 5000 Nm according to the FSM section 35.1-660
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  #18  
Old 10-05-2010, 02:25 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian Carlton View Post
Thanks.

That begs the question of what retains the joint if a snap ring is not utilized..........it cannot be a simply light press...........??
Well with the axle installed there is only so much the axle's joints and splined parts can telescope lengthwise so it doesn't have enough room to completely come apart. With the axle out of the car it would come apart if enough force was applied to move or pull apart the rubber boot which is the only thing beyond the friction holding the spider hub onto the axle shaft.
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  #19  
Old 10-05-2010, 07:39 AM
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I have a busted axle from my failed lower trailing arm. I will be disecting it as soon as I get my hands on it.


By the way, my chimanese axle has squirted grease onto my undercarriage. so three months and a small but frustrating rerepair.
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  #20  
Old 10-05-2010, 08:05 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Billybob View Post
The later axles do not use the lock ring as the spider hub is pressed onto the axle at a minimum force of 5000 Nm according to the FSM section 35.1-660
Nm (Joule) is a unit of work, not force. 1 Newton is a shade under 1/4 lb (.224 lb). 5000N =~ 1200lb, light as presses go. If it went on straight a 2-3 lb hammer would probably do it.
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  #21  
Old 10-05-2010, 08:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Billybob View Post
Well with the axle installed there is only so much the axle's joints and splined parts can telescope lengthwise so it doesn't have enough room to completely come apart. With the axle out of the car it would come apart if enough force was applied to move or pull apart the rubber boot which is the only thing beyond the friction holding the spider hub onto the axle shaft.
Is it splined or does it have a keyway to transmit the torque? Seems impossible for such a setup to remain together under loads............??
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  #22  
Old 10-05-2010, 12:04 PM
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Well, I'll be darned... This would have saved me a lot of $$ if it was posted before. But thanks so much for posting nevertheless. I installed flexx boots on mine, which I think are not as durable as Mercedes boots. I'll keep the Mercedes ones I got before the flexx boots and follow this procedure next time. Who would've known it was that easy...? Again, thanks for posting!
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  #23  
Old 10-05-2010, 03:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian Carlton View Post
Is it splined or does it have a keyway to transmit the torque? Seems impossible for such a setup to remain together under loads............??
yes it is splined and is pressed in with "force" and thats what keeps it in place

the load is transmitted in a circular/turning motion = splinted shaft transmits the power

if the force was applied in an out ward direction like it was pulling on the shaft then yes it would come apart

but the force is not really an outward or inward force its more of a turning force
although it does slightly move in and out its the whole shaft and spider that moves in while sliding on the balls and out not the shaft trying to separate from the spider

Last edited by pixelsblack009; 10-05-2010 at 03:43 PM.
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  #24  
Old 10-06-2010, 02:39 AM
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Thank You

Great Job!
('Will INSPIRE the more timid to MB boot their axles!)

What an IMPRESSIVE display of Precipitation by Mother Nature.
[Did I notice a small power failure during the Monsoon?]
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  #25  
Old 10-06-2010, 03:58 AM
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Originally Posted by compress ignite View Post
Great Job!
('Will INSPIRE the more timid to MB boot their axles!)

What an IMPRESSIVE display of Precipitation by Mother Nature.
[Did I notice a small power failure during the Monsoon?]
I cant remember there was lots of thunder and lightning that day, it was the rainy season
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  #26  
Old 10-06-2010, 12:51 PM
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Remember when reassembling that the spiders on either end MUST be displaced torsionally 60° to each other. This means that you should mark the spider position on the shaft before you remove it as you won't see the other end unless you strip it too. Failure to do this will result in vibration and jerky rotation when shafts are dog-legged.

Also replace the plastic plugs in shaft ends! The shafts float and can knock on either end when turning - they will still knock but you won't hear it! - Don't ask me how I know.

Lastly swap the drive-shafts to opposite sides - you can double their life in this way.
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  #27  
Old 10-06-2010, 12:54 PM
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Here's the procedure on a VW ( Lobro) CV joint. Look way down towards the bottom...

http://www.4130-products.com/step/cvboot/index.htm

Is the MB joint held on the same way, with a recessed circlip on the axle, or is it just a press fit into the splines?
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  #28  
Old 10-06-2010, 01:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cirrusman View Post
Well, I'll be darned... This would have saved me a lot of $$ if it was posted before. But thanks so much for posting nevertheless. I installed flexx boots on mine, which I think are not as durable as Mercedes boots. I'll keep the Mercedes ones I got before the flexx boots and follow this procedure next time. Who would've known it was that easy...? Again, thanks for posting!
Maybe one of our members who has used the Flexx Boots for many years may comment.

I know other members have commented that the Mercedes type Boots are thicker.
However, the fact that the Flexx and the Dorman Boots that are able to stretch to the extent that they do they must be made some exceptionally elastic material.
Since they are so elastic I am thinking they are less likely to crack with age.
My Cardone rebuilt Axles have the stock type Mercedes Boots and they claim they are made of Neoprene. However, right out of the box they felt rather dry an inelastic.

I am guessing that either the stock or the Flexx Boots are going to outlast a rebooted Used Axle.
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  #29  
Old 10-06-2010, 01:11 PM
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Originally Posted by Diesel911 View Post
Maybe one of our members who has used the Flexx Boots for many years may comment.

I know other members have commented that the Mercedes type Boots are thicker.
However, the fact that the Flexx and the Dorman Boots that are able to stretch to the extent that they do they must be made some exceptionally elastic material.
Since they are so elastic I am thinking they are less likely to crack with age.
My Cardone rebuilt Axles have the stock type Mercedes Boots and they claim they are made of Neoprene. However, right out of the box they felt rather dry an inelastic.

I am guessing that either the stock or the Flexx Boots are going to outlast a rebooted Used Axle.

While I am not sure that they could be stretched as much when I was looking through the various boots that Flexx or Dorman one of the companies also sells Silicone Boots.
The Silicone Boots are for use where the Axle Boot is near a heat source; like the Engine and are supposed to withstand the heat better.

If they are anything like Silicone Sealant I do not picture them cracking like any of the Rubber Boots might. However, they cost more and no one on our Forum has tried them.
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  #30  
Old 10-08-2010, 03:48 PM
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Well, I know this is not popular, but I've replaced both of my axle shafts with MOOG units from Parts America - I did "modify" both of the inner joints by removing the bolts that retain the inner joint to the shaft and applying red locktite.

Haven't had a lick of problems with them and they carry a lifetime warranty.

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