My car is beginning to clunk under the passenger side, seemingly under their feet, according to my daughter.

All the searching I have done points to the guide rod bushings.

I have searched for the replacement procedure, but only find them forthe w126.

How do you replace them on the w123? I do not have the needed Klann type spring compressor.

Thanks!

__________________
RRGrassi


70's Southern Pacific #5608 Fairmont A-4 MOW car

13 VW JSW 2.0 TDI 193K, Tuned with DPF and EGR Delete.

91 W124 300D Turbo replaced, Pressure W/G actuator installed. 210K

90 Dodge D250 5.9 Cummins/5 speed. 400K

the bushings do not require any compressor to change, just patience and a few tools.

__________________
John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread
"as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do!

My drivers:
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!!

1987 300TD
1987 300TD
1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere!

mine were definitely bad, but it could also be your front sway bar bushings. i still have some "thump" and it is because of the sway bar bushings. i would do the sway bar first, unless you really know it's the mounts. i found both mounts on ebay, new for $90. i'd check there first.


1st - Wheel(s) off (I did one at a time)

2nd- Break free the rod mount guide that goes into the guide rod but first mark the threads before you remove turn anything (i used white out). You want to do this so that you can count the number of exposed threads between the mount and the guide rod. That way when you install you can get an approximate setting for adjustment. You will HAVE to have an alignment when you are done, so do any tie rod ends if you need them.

3rd- loosen the three bolts behind the mount. (mount will not move or pop free because the spring is loaded)

4th- loosen the bolt going through the control arm from the guide rod. removing the lower bushing will help the job be easier depending on what method you use.

5th- advancing the control arm to get proper clearance to get the mount out. while the car is already held by a jack stand, preferably under the passenger/driver side frame, use a floor jack to raise the lower control arm thus making space for the mount to come out. so, jack up the control arm then unscrew the mount. repeat process and do it in intervals. in this method if something slips you still have a jack stand or two for support, and the guide rod will just fall into place, but it will be well out of adjustment.

alternated method (which i will use next time) jack up car, loosens all bolts and mount, use a strap-down or a ratchet-strap and attach one end to the control arm and the other end to a tree or post and simply ratchet the arm forward until you have enough space to remove the mount.

6th-install mount all the way threaded in, it gives more clearance when you have to move the mount into its housing.

7th- mount into housing, lock-tight the bolts, adjust to thread count of original "marked" mount threads

8th- do remaining bolts and wheel

it is is not a very difficult job, just a little troublesome and you have the risk of having the front coil coming out (while minimal to almost zero) is always a fear.

Manual Life,
Great description ! Exactly what I did a couple of years ago.

__________________
Grumpy Old Diesel Owners Club group

I no longer question authority, I annoy authority. More effect, less effort....

1967 230-6 auto parts car. rust bucket.
1980 300D now parts car 800k miles
1984 300D 500k miles
1987 250td 160k miles English import
2001 jeep turbo diesel 130k miles
1998 jeep tdi ~ followed me home. Needs a turbo.
1968 Ford F750 truck. 6-354 diesel conversion.
Other toys ~J.D.,Cat & GM ~ mainly earth moving

Nice write up, thanks. I have the left guide rod mount knocking on the floor. so this job will be coming up soon. might as well do both sides at the same time, and anything else if I have to realign it afterwards.

I also have the TD sway bar for an upgrade. may as well do it all at once.

Charlie

__________________
there were three HP ratings on the OM616...

1) Not much power
2) Even less power
3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto

Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast.

80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff

We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works

Just be sure to go to a good alignment place. Some don't do the caster properly or at all and only care about camber and toe. Make sure they do caster because that is what you are primarily dealing with.

_________there sure were a lot of type-o's in that last post which are now rectified. i was sober when i did that. my fault, i'll try to drink more often_________________

Yeah!!!

Thanks guys!

__________________
RRGrassi


70's Southern Pacific #5608 Fairmont A-4 MOW car

13 VW JSW 2.0 TDI 193K, Tuned with DPF and EGR Delete.

91 W124 300D Turbo replaced, Pressure W/G actuator installed. 210K

90 Dodge D250 5.9 Cummins/5 speed. 400K

I just rebuilt the whole front end on my 300TD. I don't see how you'd be able to replace the bushings without removing the coil spring, spring cup and shock.

They sit right on top of the bushing and I couldn't get any tools to fit in there to remove it. With everything removed it's very easy.

__________________
Chad
2006 Nissan Pathfinder LE
1998 Acura 3.0 CL
OBK#44
"Pleasure in the job puts perfection in the work." - Aristotle (384-322 B.C.)

SOLD
1985 300TD - Red Dragon
1986 300SDL - Coda
1991 - 300TE
1995 - E320
1985 300CD - Gladys

it's vice versa... the bushing is the part that moves, the mount is the part that sits under the spring.

I assumed since Fastlane called the firewall piece the mount that the other was called the bushing.

http://catalog.peachparts.com/ShopByVehicle.epc?q=1985-Mercedes--Benz-300td-Suspension&yearid=1985%40%401985&makeid=63%40%40MERCEDES+BENZ%40%40X&modelid=6234%3AED%7C10000135%3AMBC%7C1518%40%40300TD&catid=241464%40%40Suspension&subcatid=241491@@Guide+Rod+Mount&mode=PD

http://catalog.peachparts.com/ShopByVehicle.epc?q=1985-Mercedes--Benz-300td-Suspension&yearid=1985%40%401985&makeid=63%40%40MERCEDES+BENZ%40%40X&modelid=6234%3AED%7C10000135%3AMBC%7C1518%40%40300TD&catid=241464%40%40Suspension&subcatid=241520@@Guide+Rod+Repair+Kit&mode=PD


EDIT: The FSM calls the firewall piece the supporting joint.

__________________
Chad
2006 Nissan Pathfinder LE
1998 Acura 3.0 CL
OBK#44
"Pleasure in the job puts perfection in the work." - Aristotle (384-322 B.C.)

SOLD
1985 300TD - Red Dragon
1986 300SDL - Coda
1991 - 300TE
1995 - E320
1985 300CD - Gladys

Has anyone who pulled there lower Control Arm Forward to do the change the PO wants to do had their Old Lower Control Arm Bushings Damaged?

On these cars adjustin the Chamber has an effect on the Caster, adjusting the Caster has an effect on the Chamber and to a lesser extent the tow in.

__________________
84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

If you are talking about the rear mounts. This is how I did mine..... Pics are towards the bottom of the thread.

Guide Rod mount fun

AJ

__________________
AJ

1985 300D (SOLD)

Hi

I want to know how to do this without compressing the springs/coils (please give pics)

and what do you think of putting back this bolt up-side-down (nut upward)? This way, the next time I can replace the whole thing easier.