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#1
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w123 vacuum locks
Hello Everyone,
The locks on my w123 only go down when the car is running. If I try to turn the key in the door when the car is turned off, only the lock on the drivers side door goes down. All the others stay unlocked. I noticed a w123 pull into a parking space next to me yesterday, the owner jumped out and turned the key to lock the door, and I could see all the locks going down! Any ideas of why mine aren't working properly? I wonder what needs to be repaired. As I said, it works when the engine is running.
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![]() '85 Euro 300D - 258k 4 spd manual '85 300TD Wagon - 180k - SOLD Always looking |
#2
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You've got a vacuum leak somewhere. You will need to track it down. Use the search function. (Vacuum leak, Vacuum troubleshooting, etc.)
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'70 F100 shortbed '82 Diesel Westy '83 Euro 300TD Curtlo Viper Yeti ARC Surly long haul trucker |
#3
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Step one; Buy a Mity Vac.
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1977 300d 70k--sold 08 1985 300TD 185k+ 1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03 1985 409d 65k--sold 06 1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car 1979 300SD 122k--sold 2/11 1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper 1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4 1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13 |
#4
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Or just move on to step two: replace your door actuators. If they are original, they are either leaking or soon will be.
Last edited by tangofox007; 10-24-2010 at 12:13 PM. |
#5
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nahh. if the doors work with the engine running, then the problem is in the trunk. pop the trunk, climb in, and look up under the window. notice that huge egg crate looking thing? follow the hose connected to it, and find the leaking connector.
that ought to fix it!
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John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread "as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do! My drivers: 1987 190D 2.5Turbo 1987 560SL convertible 1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!! ![]() 1987 300TD 2005 Dodge Sprinter 2500 158"WB 1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere! |
#6
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Quote:
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Charles 1983 300D, bought new, 215k+ miles, donated to Purple Hearts veterans charity but I have parts for sale: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/mercedes-benz-cars-sale/296386-fs-1-owner-83-mb-300d-turbo-rebuild-parts.html |
#7
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I agree with vstech. If they lock when the car is running, and not when it's stopped there is a problem with vac storage. I also agree with kerry in that it's mity vac time.
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79 MB 280 SEL Euro 133k 77 MB 450SL 154k 05 Mustang GT Vert (3) 104k 12 TSX Wagon Tech (66k) (192k) 06 Subaru Outback base (135k) 164k 16 Acura MDX (109k) 111k 18 Silverado 2500 LTZ Midnight (212) 56k 97 Ford Ranger 163k 11 RAV4 154k 01 Escape 173k 04 Honda Pilot 292k 1967 Mustang (Resto Project) 1968 Mustang (Parts Bin) 00 Ford Ranger 124k |
#8
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Quote:
Quote:
Door lock troubleshooting can be accomplished by simply isolating the actuators. No special tools required. |
#9
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W123 Vacuum InterLock Diagram
Good pics and diagram in the above link. I'd recommend starting under the hood and looking at the connections there. First, because it's easy to get to, and second because it's a common area for a line to get disconnected or cracked. If you can't find an obvious culprit, then sequentially isolating the components is the next step. There may be more than one bad connection or actuator so it's not just a matter of saying "removed the trunk lock from the setup and it didn't fix it, therefore trunk lock is not the problem." To isolate a component, you'll need to disconnect and cap both the lock and unlock lines. I've seen screws inserted into the rubber connections. It's an effective technique, but may damage the rubber if you use too large or too sharp a screw. I'm a fan of the Mity-Vac with a pressure gauge because you can apply vacuum to a component (or series of components) and see if it bleeds down. HF sells a cheaper version of the Mity-Vac that is suitable, but less durable. |
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