I hate it I hate it, E300 D dying engine temp above 80C, drive or idle - Page 2 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

shoe · #16 11-12-2010, 08:42 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Lux

Hey Richard! I agree with Billybob. Loose grounds tend to wreak havoc on computerized components. It's a good place to start.

I bought a '96 VW jetta many moons ago for next to nothing. Would run okay and then randomly start missing and bucking. I figured it was loose grounds and it was. 'Bout 30 minutes of wrench time and it ran like a champ.

I still haven't done a thing to the '96 you sold me 'cept fuel it, change the oil and drive it.

First thing I was planning on doing is checking all the grounds and then go from there.

Glad to hear the old 96 is still running well. I will check the grounds today not a bad thought for sure...not sure why I did not check them all because that is what I was looking for when I pulled the headlight assembly out. I also plan to put a vacum pump on the intake side of the lift pump the more I drive it the more a lack of fuel supply fits. I will keep you all posted.

benhogan · #17 11-12-2010, 09:16 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Junkman

Firestone has a lifetime balance for about the price of 2 trips onto the machine. Their wrench jockeys are no worse than other low paying places. I just wander back to the shop & make sure they don't do damage.

Discount Tire price matches web prices - even those hat sell tires at cost & make their $$ on shipping. Pay tax, $7 each install & you're done. Lifetime balance included.

Firestone used to have a lifetime alignment deal for $150. I'll have to call them to see if it is still available.

***I just called them. They still have the lifetime alignment for $179.... sweet!--

Bill Ladd · #18 11-12-2010, 10:00 AM

C'mon guys. We're trying to help Shoe diagnose issues with his car. Might you take the off-topic tire discussion elsewhere?

shoe · #19 11-12-2010, 10:31 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Lux

C'mon guys. We're trying to help Shoe diagnose issues with his car. Might you take the off-topic tire discussion elsewhere?

Thanks Lux

Well I did a quick down and dirty check of grounding points that would have been impacted by body work recently finished and found all tight and clean. I plan to tee in a vacum gauge on the intake side of the lift pump just to eliminate that issue I wish I had a spec to compare with. I can definitly tell when the car is about to start acting up it will lose its smooth idle and start to surge. Not like the resonance flap surge though; I cleaned those about a month ago. It is amazing how temperature related this issue is as long as the engine is below 80C it idles and runs perfectly.

barry123400 · #20 11-12-2010, 11:47 AM

Whatever the electronic system enables to function after operating temperature is accomplished is suspect. Some form of electric/electronic closed loop system for the fuel perhaps until the mass air sensor is allowed to function.

Thinking a little about once the egr system is allowed to activate if it is in the closed loop until the engine warms. It may stay open as well then. Doing much checking is going to throw codes.

I do not own one of these cars and am not aware of how codes are cleared. nor how there systems are set up. Although I would be curious how the car does after warmup with the mass air sensor disconnected. Yet if it was already out of tollerance you should have a code already.

I hope the main computor was not damaged when the body repairs were done. Welding on the car would have been required usually to enable that. I doubt the lift pump is going bad as soon as the engine hits 80c.

A quicker check than plumbing something in would be to watch the overflow fuel from the return of the injection pump. If it continues flowing until the engine quits the fuel supply feed system is probably okay.

I would at least locate a source of a used computor before going to the dealership as well. I suspect you would not like their price on one if it was required. I have no specific knowledge that your computor is bad. Yet it has an outside chance. I wish I knew the newer diesels like yours better. I really know nothing about them.

To simplify all the above. In all my limited experience certain functions are kept in a closed loop condition until operating temperature of the engine occurs. Then they are allowed to regulate themselves or become dynamic if you wish. It seems to me that at this transition point the dynamic regulation is flawed. Yet you have no codes showing? Or do you? No codes showing can point to a computor issue as well.

Take what I say with a grain of salt though. I have never examined or worked on one of your type diesel cars. I for example do not know if there is an electrical/electronic system that has enough influence to shut down the engine.

To me there does sound like one is there from your description. One simple test from my limited intellect. Disconnect the block temperature switch lead that lets the computor know the temperature of the engine. If my guess is accurate the car will no longer die out when 80c is accomplished. The computor and systems remain in the closed loop condition.

Olivier · #21 11-12-2010, 12:12 PM

Hi Shoe.
you can get the valves to rebuild the lift pump for cheap, its also easy to do. You need a vice tho or something similar to hold the pump and unscrew it.

Would this be fuel starvation?
I wonder if you had a look at the tank strainer? Just wondering if the fuel getting hot back into the tank aggraviate the situation and make your car stalling?
How are your fuel filters?

A low battery might trigger the engine light? I am not sure? On mine the BAS light comes on when the battery is dying. not the Engine.
Olivier

shoe · #22 11-13-2010, 01:57 PM

Well I can toss the temp relationship out the window it died on me today well below the aforementioned 80C temp. Additionally I thought it would only act up in drive will that was shot to hell yesterday; I had started throwing it in neutral at stop lights to hopefully keep from holding up traffic. Well it died on me in neutral yesterday so back to square one. Well Tuesday is not that far away so off to the Independent shop it will go.

Olivier · #23 11-13-2010, 02:10 PM

Hi Shoe,
Did you check your tank strainer?

duxthe1 · #24 11-13-2010, 09:48 PM

Two words: Crank Sensor.

shoe · #25 11-14-2010, 07:48 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by duxthe1

Two words: Crank Sensor.

Interesting....tell me more than two words about your suggestion. maybe a test procedure?

winmutt · #26 11-14-2010, 08:38 AM

Describe the dying. I am convinced 80c is a magic place in the EDS.

Bill Ladd · #27 11-14-2010, 09:10 AM

Keith -- I just fixed the slow shut off issue with the '96!!

Last fill up I dumped in half a bottle of DieselKleen. All the sudden she's shutting off properly with no CEL.

??!!!!???

Could some issues with these first generation all electronic diesels be related to ultra low sulfur fuel?

shoe · #28 11-14-2010, 09:35 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Lux

Keith -- I just fixed the slow shut off issue with the '96!!

Last fill up I dumped in half a bottle of DieselKleen. All the sudden she's shutting off properly with no CEL.

??!!!!???

Could some issues with these first generation all electronic diesels be related to ultra low sulfur fuel?

Wow great news Bill I would never have thought with a new fuel shutoff valve contamination would have been that quick of an impact.

all of the liturature I have been given since the introduction of ULSD states it should not but anythings possible glad to hear you did not have to spend big bucks to get that solved.

shoe · #29 11-14-2010, 09:37 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by winmutt

Describe the dying. I am convinced 80c is a magic place in the EDS.

Winmutt it is almost like the key is turned off exept for the ETS lights and messages coming on.

shoe · #30 11-14-2010, 09:43 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Olivier

Hi Shoe,
Did you check your tank strainer?

Olivier not yet I have not had the time to get to the tank. Although after Lux's post about dieselkleen solving his slow engine turn off I believe I will pour some in my tank. That should take care of most contamination issues.