92 300d still not running questions about alda

[1977busman]

ok this car is going to push me over the edge both mentally and finacially. Started out fixing leaky delivery valve seals, to fix high 0-60 time and hard shifts. Well now shes got plenty of power and no leaks, but wont idle at all. Ran fine before other than low power. It basically shudders and knocks untill it dies(20secs.) Heres what weve done:

• Replaced orings
• replaced fuel filter
• Replaced orings again
• Had injectors rebuilt(got suckered outta $500)
• replaced return lines
• Replaced orings again
• Bypassed tank
• bypassed entire fuel filter assembly and ran directly into pump with nothing between it and the electric fuel pump we had pumping out of our diesel can

I talked to whunter awhile ago and he said something about the alda being bad. How do I go about testing it? Is there a way to do it without removing the intake for the 2nd time? i dont wanna strip everything down again to find that the alda is fine. If I can confirm that the alda is bad, I have no problem striping it down to get to it. Any guidance would be appreciated, as we are really close to throwing in the towel on this car, and taking one big loss.
Thanks,
zach

[jt20]

if you push the pedal down, how does it respond?

Is there a difference b/w warm and cold idle?

Did this happen suddenly, or after a 'repair'?

search terms:

ELR
EDS
OVP Relay

If you still suspect the ALDA, carefully back the adjustment screw out(CCW) all the way until it stops. And check the idle again.

[1977busman]

if you push the pedal down, how does it respond?

Is there a difference b/w warm and cold idle?

Did this happen suddenly, or after a 'repair'?

search terms:

ELR
EDS
OVP Relay

If you still suspect the ALDA, carefully back the adjustment screw out(CCW) all the way until it stops. And check the idle again.

There is very little to no hesitation when pedal is pushed down, just revs up.
No difference in cold or warm idle.
Ive been working on it for 6 months, and work is slow because I'm in school. We replaced the O-rings the first time and everything went downhill fast. It ran before work started but 0-60 times were above 40 secs, and dv valves were leaking badly.

[jt20]

when you did the DVs , did you oil the rings and 'set' them by removing any twists or stresses?

this could be a large factor.

[1977busman]

The first time the old were cracked and rotted, the second time two of the old were ripped, the third time they looked good, and we did everyting right after the first time

[jt20]

the other thing is the idle control on the back of the pump.

remove the wire / clip next time the car is warm and idling and take note of the idle speed. I think its supposed to be around 650 rpm (someone correct me)

do some reading on those search terms and see if they help identify your problem.

[jt20]

Originally Posted by 1977busman

The first time the old were cracked and rotted, the second time two of the old were ripped, the third time they looked good, and we did everyting right after the first time

you didn't really answer the question, but are they leaking still?

How did you torque them?

did you replace the copper washers each time?

[1977busman]

you didn't really answer the question, but are they leaking still?

How did you torque them?

did you replace the copper washers each time?

Yes we used a lubricant on the orings, and didnt alow them to roll or twist as we put them on. We did replace the crushwashers. We did the 30nm slacken, 30nm slacken, 35nm.

the other thing is the idle control on the back of the pump.

remove the wire / clip next time the car is warm and idling and take note of the idle speed. I think its supposed to be around 650 rpm (someone correct me)

do some reading on those search terms and see if they help identify your problem.

My tach doesnt work, and abs light is on all the time. So this I assume means the ovp is bad. Does this affect things, other than I obviously dont know my rpm's. Also will try disconecting the wire in the morning.

[1977busman]

Also dv valves are not leaking

[jt20]

Originally Posted by 1977busman

My tach doesnt work, and abs light is on all the time. So this I assume means the ovp is bad. Does this affect things, other than I obviously dont know my rpm's. Also will try disconecting the wire in the morning.

I think thats where you should start. Unless you have some strange air ingress issues somewhere.

I can't really help much further than giving you those search terms.

But, the OVP is definitely a factor here as is the non-operational tach.

You should be able to find the info pretty quickly and then update the thread with some finalizing questions to get you on the right path.

Good luck.

[1977busman]

I will post updates tommorow, ive been researching the ovp knowing eventually it needed to be fixed, but ive put it off because i didnt think it was a priority.

[jt20]

do you have an engine manual?


http://w124-zone.com/downloads/MB%20CD/W124/Index/602_603/07MechElec.htm

[1977busman]

no I dont but this looks very helpfull so far. Thanks!

[04 Diesel]

Change the ovp, that might be your problem.

[1977busman]

fuse in the ovp was bad. It now idles pretty well. After driving for a while the idle got better, but oil pressure was low, and it looks like is has some real thin oil in it, so I need to get that changed right away. The only problem remaining is that it shifts weird, like goes into top gear before it hits 20mph and wont downshift unless i either shift it myself or push the pedal to the floor pushing the switch. However it no longer matters how it drives for awhile because while I was driving, I may have been speeding a little to much to see what she could do, and got pulled over. End result is that Im only 16, and i have a 95% chance that my license will be suspended for 6 months