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  #16  
Old 01-22-2011, 09:19 PM
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I used FEBI subframe mounts.

I used OEM Mercedes-Benz motor mounts from the dealer.

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  #17  
Old 12-12-2012, 09:32 AM
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Sorry to bring this back from the dead...

I am planning to get some assistance from some family at Christmas to change the bad motors mounts on my '71 220D, and was trying to order parts. However, I'm second guessing myself and wanted to see if anyone here could help. I took it in and had a private mechanic look it over and they told me my motor mounts had collapsed, and that I needed a transmission mount as well.

The only motor mount listed here on pelican parts I can find is "square type, front left"

I looked elsewhere and was able to find "Engine/Motor Mount; Right; Front; Heavy Duty" by Meyle.

Would I want to order both of these? I was also planning to buy the FEBI transmission mount as you did. Mercedes wanted $577 from me for the motor mounts.
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  #18  
Old 12-12-2012, 06:10 PM
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Urethane DIY replacements are pretty much a permanent fix if you do the urethane correctly.

Cost for a pound of raw material seems to be about $30
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  #19  
Old 12-13-2012, 09:17 AM
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I found this thread discussing:

Custom urethane engine mounts???

I have only had my diesel a few months, and prior to this car, the only maintenance I had done to my own car was changing the breaks on an 03 Infiniti G35 and 06 MB C230. I'm pretty new to DIY. So far in the 220D, I have changed the fuel filters twice, and the oil once... messy job!

I don't know if I am ready to customize parts -- I am hoping for more of a bolt-on approach, though I don't want to have change mounts very often, if ever again, on this car.

This is the mount I see when I search Pelican:
1971 Mercedes-Benz 220D Sedan - Engine Miscellaneous - Page 1

What else do you think I would need to do it close to OEM?
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  #20  
Old 12-17-2012, 09:26 AM
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If I want to stick to an OEM-type mount, though, are those the correct parts? It just concerned me that one side was listed as heavy duty and no mention of "square type" and the other is the square type with no mention of heavy duty. Is that ok? Should I still order these 2, and they both work together?
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  #21  
Old 12-17-2012, 10:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TnBob View Post
Urethane DIY replacements are pretty much a permanent fix if you do the urethane correctly.

Cost for a pound of raw material seems to be about $30
That's exactly what I did on mine



Just need to use the right urethane or there is way too much vibration.

More information here - 380SL Diesel Conversion Project
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  #22  
Old 12-17-2012, 10:42 AM
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Answer

Quote:
Originally Posted by kwoody View Post
If I want to stick to an OEM-type mount, though, are those the correct parts? It just concerned me that one side was listed as heavy duty and no mention of "square type" and the other is the square type with no mention of heavy duty. Is that ok? Should I still order these 2, and they both work together?
That is the correct part for Left and Right.
The MB mount will last several years longer, but the price leaves me gasping.

I replaced the mounts on my daughters car, without removing the sub-frame.
Welcome to the fleet 1976 W115.114 "300D" dark Green


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  #23  
Old 12-17-2012, 10:47 AM
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These are the pictures from post #1

I have attached all of the pictures from post #1, so they don't vanish in future years.


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Attached Thumbnails
W115 motor mount replacement & subframe removal w/pics-dscn1934.jpg   W115 motor mount replacement & subframe removal w/pics-dscn1936.jpg   W115 motor mount replacement & subframe removal w/pics-dscn1938.jpg   W115 motor mount replacement & subframe removal w/pics-dscn1939.jpg   W115 motor mount replacement & subframe removal w/pics-dscn1940.jpg  

W115 motor mount replacement & subframe removal w/pics-dscn1941.jpg   W115 motor mount replacement & subframe removal w/pics-dscn1943.jpg   W115 motor mount replacement & subframe removal w/pics-dscn1944.jpg   W115 motor mount replacement & subframe removal w/pics-dscn1945.jpg   W115 motor mount replacement & subframe removal w/pics-dscn1947.jpg  

W115 motor mount replacement & subframe removal w/pics-dscn1948.jpg  
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  #24  
Old 12-17-2012, 11:16 AM
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I am hoping to do mine without removing the sub frame as well. I will order those 2 parts. I could order the Urethane, too, and see what the guys think that are helping me with this project. I don't know anything about the structure of motor mounts. That photo helps me understand the urethane thing better, though. My mechanic said my mounts had collapsed -- so does that mean where your urethane is, mine will be empty? Or that I can clean it up and put the urethane in?
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  #25  
Old 12-17-2012, 11:27 AM
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Answer

Quote:
Originally Posted by kwoody View Post
I am hoping to do mine without removing the sub frame as well. I will order those 2 parts. I could order the Urethane, too, and see what the guys think that are helping me with this project. I don't know anything about the structure of motor mounts. That photo helps me understand the urethane thing better, though. My mechanic said my mounts had collapsed -- so does that mean where your urethane is, mine will be empty? Or that I can clean it up and put the urethane in?
You can remove all of the old rubber, make a mold/jig to suspend the mount puck in the correct location, and cast new ones.
Homemade Polyurethane Engine Mounts - bushings


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Prototype R&D/testing:
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Noise Vibration and Harshness (NVH).
Dynamometer.
Heat exchanger durability.
HV-A/C Climate Control.
Vehicle build.
Fleet Durability
Technical Quality Auditor.
Automotive Technical Writer

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1984 190D
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  #26  
Old 12-26-2012, 04:52 PM
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My father and I replaced the motor mounts and transmission mount yesterday, as well as gear shift bushings and steering damper, and the vibrations and noise at idle are NOT better.

Would the subframe mounts be my problem? We did not drop the subframe to install mounts -- managed to get it done without doing so. It seems to be a lot better when in park, than in drive with foot on brake at a light.

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