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#1
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Quick Question- ATF Dipstick levels
for the 190d2.5td, is there no hot or cold level marks on the dipstick? i just see two tick marks at the bottom of the stick. the manual has no pictures.
the ATF level on my hot ATF is a full inch above the upper mark. Could the PO possible overfilled it hence the ATF leaking? What is the best way to get rid of some of the fluid? Should I drain the pan, take it off and install a new gasket or should I just suck out some ATF via the dipstick tube with my Mityvac? Your opinion is appreciated.
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Ben 1987 190d 2.5Turbo |
#2
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The two tick marks are the "add" and "full" marks as far as I know.
Did you check it with the engine running? (You're supposed to.) If not, then the level was probably artificially high. How to get it out (whether to drop the pan or not) depends on how many miles ago the filter was changed. If it's time for a filter then that's the obvious choice. If not, dropping the pan isn't hard WORK at all but it's a lot of MESS when the fluid gets all down your arms and the garage floor. You simply can't drain enough out beforehand to prevent a mess when the pan comes down. Might be able to remove the little plug in the pan bottom very very slowly with a pan underneath and literally stop the moment you get the first drip and let it drip out the threads until your level is lowered, but be prepared for all the fluid to dump if this very finicky operation goes wrong. |
#3
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Quote:
X2 I have always gone for a 20+ mile drive, park the car on a very flat & level surface, park brake on & car in drive with motor idling. An indicator of over full is trans fluid coming out the trans breather & making a mess on the underside of the car. They tend to change up early as well.
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Grumpy Old Diesel Owners Club group I no longer question authority, I annoy authority. More effect, less effort.... ![]() 1967 230-6 auto parts car. rust bucket. 1980 300D now parts car 800k miles 1984 300D 500k miles ![]() 1987 250td 160k miles English import ![]() 2001 jeep turbo diesel 130k miles ![]() 1998 jeep tdi ~ followed me home. Needs a turbo. 1968 Ford F750 truck. 6-354 diesel conversion. Other toys ~J.D.,Cat & GM ~ mainly earth moving |
#4
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Quote:
I hope nothing is damaged. crap. By the way, is Dexron 3 the way to go on this car? If the two tickmarks representing add and full =1 quart, I might be 3 quarts over. crapola.
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Ben 1987 190d 2.5Turbo |
#5
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Just suck it out once you determine by proper procedure that you are overfull...
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1980 240d , chain elongation, cam marks reference: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/10414-help-i-need-check-stretch.html http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/305365-9-degrees-chain-stretch.html evap fin cleaning: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/156207-photo-step-step-post-showing-w123-evaporator-removal-1983-240d-1982-300td.html?highlight=evaporator A/C thread http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/297462-c-recommendations-mb-vehicles.html |
#6
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If your fluid it clean and your filter recent..
no problem with just sucking it out... I was making that assumption in my first post.. but if you have been driving it over filled by a lot... then you need to change out the fluid also... it oxidizes much faster in that situation and loses its most valuable properties...
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1980 240d , chain elongation, cam marks reference: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?threadid=10414 http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/305365-9-degrees-chain-stretch.html evap fin cleaning: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/156207-photo-step-step-post-showing-w123-evaporator-removal-1983-240d-1982-300td.html?highlight=evaporator A/C thread http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/297462-c-recommendations-mb-vehicles.html |
#7
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Quote:
I will get the filter and gasket tomorrow. Dextron 3 is the ATF for this car? Any brands to avoid?
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Ben 1987 190d 2.5Turbo |
#8
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my manual is not available right now..sorry..
I have a stick shift.. so I have not checked the trans fluid type lately... someone ought to know this and post..
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1980 240d , chain elongation, cam marks reference: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?threadid=10414 http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/305365-9-degrees-chain-stretch.html evap fin cleaning: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/156207-photo-step-step-post-showing-w123-evaporator-removal-1983-240d-1982-300td.html?highlight=evaporator A/C thread http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/297462-c-recommendations-mb-vehicles.html |
#9
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Dexron 3 is correct. I use standard (not synthetic) dex-3 of whatever brand seems cheap.
Oil, I don't cheap out on. I use Rotella. Coolant, I don't cheap out on. I've finally gotten everything onto Zerex. Trans fluid? I tend to believe that fluid is fluid is fluid. (Likewise, oil is probably oil is probably oil except ingrained brand loyalties are hard to overcome) I'm putting Parts Master in mine at the moment, it's what the locally owned parts store carries. Last time I checked, SOME PM stuff was generic Valvoline. Don't know if it all is. Either way, my two cents is that any brand will be fine. Some people are more meticulous. |
#10
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Last time i check full was at the top of the tube right?
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1996 s10 zr2 with a 6.5 turbo diesel 1996 c2500 suburban with a 6.5 turbo diesel 1981 300sd with a turbo 617 Monte carlo figure 8 car |
#11
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Or open the longer of the trany oil cooler hoses and drain into a container.
If need to add about a quart id recommend the Lucas trans oil aditive,not stop slip.it has a lot of nice conditioners etc and improves the condition of the oil you already have in the car. |
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