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  #16  
Old 02-09-2011, 05:31 PM
showme's Avatar
Mama's 300D
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Missouri
Posts: 482
Finally got to the bottom of the ignition switch problem. Got my new housing and switch in, then used a sawzall to cut through the old switch, carefully measuring so as not to mess up the plug from the dash. What I found was that the part inside the housing that turns to release the switch from the housing was broken off and would not allow it to disconnect, which is why I couldn't pull the plug out of the housing. Replaced the housing and the switch. It's working, but when I put the black collar back on over the key tumbler, when i got it screwed down, the key would not turn or come out. Took it out, tried again, same thing. So the third time, I left it off. At least I can drive it now. With snow coming down and the temperature at 15*, I said screw it, that's good enough. And getting that speedo hooked back up was a real bear. Glad it's done.
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Need help with ignition housing problem-1981 300D!!-ign-switch-parts-2.jpg  
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1951 Chevy 3100

2003 Indian Chief Roadmaster

1983 GMC 1 ton Dually

1982 Chevy 1 ton Dually, service body (sold)

'90 GMC Suburban 6.2 "SS Veg-Burban"
(single tank WVO\diesel conversion) SOLD

'81 300D ~ Mama's car...my job (now my car)(but still my job) SOLD

'83 300sd ~ rescue car SOLD

2005 Ford Taurus (Mama's new car)(NOT my job!)
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  #17  
Old 02-09-2011, 07:36 PM
Yak Yak is offline
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If by "black collar" you mean the locking collar on the outside, you have to back that off to let the lock engage. Mine had to go almost one full turn.

The FSM (46-640) says "Pull releasing wire out of locking cylinder. Turn cap to the left (max. 1 turn) until detent of locking cylinder enters groove of cap"

For the speedo cable - did you loosen or remove the plastic clip in the engine bay? It gives a few more inches of slack. Not so helpful now, but...
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  #18  
Old 02-09-2011, 08:01 PM
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Location: Cicero, Hamilton County, Indiana about 30 miles north of downtown Indianapolis
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Well SHOWME, I had the same problem on my 82 last Spring. Had the whole thinngy apart and couldn't get the plug off the back. And I had previously replaced a switch in my 85 and had it all apart also. But that 82 wouldn't come apart and I finally cut it all apart, pretty much like you just did. I also cut off the probe that goes into and locks the steering column. I think these cars are to old to be of much interest to car thieves, and I think by removing that tab, I take a lot of stress off the key part of the switch.
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1983 Mercedes W123 240D 4 Speed 285,000 on the road with a 617 turbo, beautiful butter yellow, license plate # 83 240D INDIANA

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  #19  
Old 02-10-2011, 07:46 PM
showme's Avatar
Mama's 300D
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Missouri
Posts: 482
Thanks, Yak, for the info on the collar. I WILL put it back on now that I know the story on that. Really odd that I've had it off a few times before when changing out the tumbler last year and didnt' have a problem, but I didn't have the new housing on it either, so it was old part to old part. Per the speedo cable, I've replaced it twice since I've owned the car, and know from previous experience that you always connect the dash first for ease. I realized that I could get under the car and cut a couple of zip ties to give me slack, but as I said, it was snowing, freezing and there was 3 inches of snow and ice on the hood, so I just used the "fuss and cuss" system, and eventually made it go. But thanks just the same for the tip.

And, Jim, I agree totally about cutting that damned (and I DO mean damned) lock bolt off, because this is no longer a $33k car in the 80's. But as I said above, weather was a big factor in my choices this time (I did this work at the curb in front of our house), and just to be able to drive it again was my main goal. Thanks for all the support, fellas! This forum is a life saver. Just wish I had gone and bought a new camera so I could have posted pics or made a DIY thread. (Used my cell phone for the pics I posted of the bad parts). AND NOW, TO THE VACUUM PUMP PROJECT!
__________________
"Knowing is not enough, we must apply.
Willing is not enough, we must do." Goethe

***********************************


1951 Chevy 3100

2003 Indian Chief Roadmaster

1983 GMC 1 ton Dually

1982 Chevy 1 ton Dually, service body (sold)

'90 GMC Suburban 6.2 "SS Veg-Burban"
(single tank WVO\diesel conversion) SOLD

'81 300D ~ Mama's car...my job (now my car)(but still my job) SOLD

'83 300sd ~ rescue car SOLD

2005 Ford Taurus (Mama's new car)(NOT my job!)
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  #20  
Old 02-11-2011, 08:17 PM
Yak Yak is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by showme View Post
And, Jim, I agree totally about cutting that damned (and I DO mean damned) lock bolt off, because this is no longer a $33k car in the 80's.
I'd almost agree except for a basic reason - you may need the locking pin to loosen/tighten the steering wheel bolt.

The PO on my 300CD hacked the whole ignition set up. His method of disabling the steering wheel lock was to jam a sheet-rock screw into the locking pin shaft and then grind it flat. It did a super job of holding the pin back. But then he couldn't tighten the steering wheel bolt correctly so he loctited that in place.

I couldn't break it free (no leverage to stop the wheel from spinning) and I didn't want to overtorque the collapsible steering tube. I ended up removing the steering column, disassembling the wheel/horn assembly, putting a micro-torch on the bolt and removing it.

I could then proceed with a straightforward reassembly of the dash.

Without the loctite, maybe turned fully against the stops on the Pitman arm/steering shaft may be adequate to loosen/tighten the bolt but you're still torquing it against a corrugated tube that's designed to collapse that connects to a rubber bushing, instead of the metal locking pin near the bolt.

Just an observation on a potential "unintended consequence" of cutting/disabling that pin.
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