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  #1  
Old 02-03-2011, 12:19 PM
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I always thought you were not supposed to work on hot aluminum heads. The threads are supposedly easier to strip hot than when cold. I guess not. How hot was your engine?
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  #2  
Old 02-04-2011, 12:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Oldwolf View Post
I always thought you were not supposed to work on hot aluminum heads. The threads are supposedly easier to strip hot than when cold. I guess not. How hot was your engine?
The engine was hot from a one hour trip that I just returned from. So by the time I got the manifold off and was at the glow plugs it had cooled off only a few degrees I'm guessing. Fortunately there wasn't anything too hot in the areas where you had to work - very few third degree burns.
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  #3  
Old 08-20-2011, 04:43 PM
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Debated starting a new thread, but decided to tag onto the old one here. Had #1 glowplug fail on the wife's car and after being part of the tail end of my dad's nightmare original change, I wasn't looking forward to the possibility of the same, especially on a car we need everyday and having it down a few days while I futzed with it wasn't going to go over well.

#1 is the only one reachable without taking off the intake manifold, and I let the car idle for a few minute after a short trip while I got my tools out. By the time I was ready, the engine was definitely warm and I actually left it running while I broke the #1 GP free. (You can't loosen it much like that, so I just broke it free and then shut the engine off.) You can get at it with a 6-inch or longer extension. I used 1/4", but you could probably make a 3/8" work.

Proceeded to remove it, ream it, and install the new one. I chose not to use anti-seize as the one that came out didn't have any and came out very easily. Hopefully I don't regret that down the road.

Total time was right around half-hour, and fully a third of that was trying to determine if the MIL would go out just by starting the car a couple times. Seems it wasn't, so I cleared the code with my scanner and cleaned things up.
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  #4  
Old 08-20-2011, 05:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jim-sokoloff View Post
#1 is the only one reachable without taking off the intake manifold
#4 can be changed by only removing the crossover pipe.


Quote:
Originally Posted by jim-sokoloff View Post
I chose not to use anti-seize as the one that came out didn't have any and came out very easily. Hopefully I don't regret that down the road.
You will. There is NO excuse for not using anti-seize.
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2012 S350 BlueTEC 4Matic
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  #5  
Old 08-21-2011, 01:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GregMN View Post
#4 can be changed by only removing the crossover pipe.




You will. There is NO excuse for not using anti-seize.
Turbo's don't ahve crossovers; only 95-97's do.

I've never used anti-sieze on mine; neither does the factory or dealer. Mine have been replaced once. CUrrent set has almost 200k on them.
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  #6  
Old 08-22-2011, 02:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TMAllison View Post
Turbo's don't ahve crossovers; only 95-97's do.

I've never used anti-sieze on mine; neither does the factory or dealer. Mine have been replaced once. CUrrent set has almost 200k on them.
After the horrible experience I had breaking off a glow plug, I lather my plugs now with anti-seize just for peace of mind. However, I'm not so sure that the anti-seize is really needed. I think removing the glow plugs with the engine hot is the ticket. However, it's unlikely that I'll stop using the anti-seize.
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Len
'59 220S Cabriolet-SOLD and living happily in Malta
'83 240D 351,500 miles original owner-SOLD
'88 560SL 41,000 miles - totaled and parted out
https://sites.google.com/site/mercedesstuff/home
'99 E300 turbo 227,500 miles
'03 SLK320 40,000 miles - gave to my daughter
'14 Smart electric coupe 28,500 miles
'14 Smart electric cabriolet 28,500 miles
'15 Smart electric coupe 28,000 miles

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