Torsion Bar Bushings R&R

[Manual Life]

Did the torsion bar bushings on my 84 300D today. The results are very nice as the front end feels more solid and the steering is firmer.

As a review I say that it is not a difficult task but requires the mechanic to remain patient. The task takes about 2 hours give or take 15 to 30 minutes, and is a one man job though would be a little faster and easier with two.

You with need a 1/4 and 3/8 swivel, some extensions for both in both sizes, 13mm sockets for both sizes, a pry bar or something to leverage the torsion bar, 10mm sockets, a 12 inch 1/2 inch drive extension or flat-ended round bar, a screw driver, and a hammer.(The screw driver is to manipulate the bushings once back in their proper location. You can use it to rotate the bushing by sticking it in the holes of the bushing. Just be gentle with them so as not to mar anything)

I found that removing or loosening the brake booster is not necessary but is definitely the more difficult side.

I found that using PB Blaster helped significantly on allowing bushing to come out of the tight space under the booster. Make sure to clean any lube from the torsion bar and chassis after doing this because you don't want any oil on the new bushing(s). Then push and wiggle the bushing until you have to use a pry bar then continue until it is out. This requires the patience I spoke about. The bushing bracket bolts are 13mm.

I also found that it is not necessary to remove the top bolt for the bushing bracket under the booster. Just get it loose by threading it as far to the end of the stud without it coming off. The bottom one has to go.

As to getting the bushing back in on the booster side I suggest loosening the bracket or removing it on the battery tray side. Get the installation on the booster side started then use a 1/2 inch extension or flat ended bar to hit it back in with a hammer if you cannot push it in with your finger while moving the torsion bar. Be careful here and make sure not to pinch the bushing or "clip" it so as to damage it. Additionally I found that jacking up the car on that side helps you do things the 3rd hand you do not have cannot. The installation requires the remainder of the patience of which I spoke.

The battery tray side is easy. Just use your brain and a pry bar. Remove the battery, remove the battery tray. The 4 bolts are 10mm. Then remove the 2 13mm bolts holding the bushing bracket. Before removing the bracket note the way it is secured because it goes on only one way. You'll understand when you look at it. Use a pry bar to relieve tension on the bushing and remove the bushing. Replace is the reverse of install.

Lastly enjoy the final results. It's definitely an inexpensive job and worth doing. Bushings are found only at the dealership, thats the only place I found them, and run about $7.

And the more I restore these old Benz the more impressed I am with them. They are great cars that run smooth and pleasant.

[vstech]

any pics of this job to add to a Wiki?

[sjh]

Would your comments also apply to the w124?

[aaa]

Originally Posted by Dr_SJH

Would your comments also apply to the w124?

No, it's on the bottom on the w124. Way simpler.

[sjh]

Originally Posted by aaa

No, it's on the bottom on the w124. Way simpler.

Thanks.

[pawoSD]

Originally Posted by vstech

any pics of this job to add to a Wiki?

Thought I'd submit some from when we did the bushings AND bar.

[Manual Life]

For those that do not know, those pics are for a w124. I didn't take pics. I suppose I could. Perhaps I'll pull things apart this weekend and get some.

[charmalu]

That is a good write up on the bushing replacement. they can also be found after market. think World pak has them. I do know the wagon (TD) are dealer only bushings, about $30 ea because the bar is thicker.

The OP has a W123 and the pictures posted is of a W126. same set up but more stuff to remove to get to them.

Charlie

[Diesel911]

When changing the Bushings you may find you need at the very least to do some surface Rust removal, rust treatment and repainting.

If I had not removed the Brake Booster I would not have had enough room to deal with the Rust.

I thank Caesium for posting the Mercedes part number for 300D Sway Bar Bushings : 123 323 05 85 because the place I bought from did not show this part until I searched with the Part number and they turned out to be less than $4 each.

[Manual Life]

Noted. I had no rust under the booster. A little under the battery tray but I saved that for another day.

[pawoSD]

Originally Posted by Manual Life

For those that do not know, those pics are for a w124. I didn't take pics. I suppose I could. Perhaps I'll pull things apart this weekend and get some.

Um, no, they are from a 300SD W126, which has the same setup as a W123.

W124's have the torsion bar down in front below the radiator support, not even close to how it is on a W126/W123.

[Manual Life]

Originally Posted by pawoSD

Um, no, they are from a 300SD W126, which has the same setup as a W123.

W124's have the torsion bar down in front below the radiator support, not even close to how it is on a W126/W123.

That's not the same set up as a W123. If you mean same general location then I'll agree. But not the same.

[Stretch]

Here are some pictures of my car - some showing that general area!









They are all out of this thread:-

W123 Engine bay paint advice req'd

[winmutt]

Originally Posted by aaa

No, it's on the bottom on the w124. Way simpler.

With the W124, it takes longer to jack the car up and get it on stands than it does to do the front. The same with the brake pads....