Advice Needed! Good Oily Waxy Dip for Newly Cleaned Bolts/hardware? - Page 2 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

locry · #16 02-09-2011, 11:44 PM

chain lube

warmblood58 · #17 02-10-2011, 12:07 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vstech

the bolt pair that holds the bumper on is very irregular. hardly a simple assembly or "cheap hardware" I agree something needs to protect them.
I'd think the zinc plate kit would be the best... spray on oily wax would be the second best. dipping would not work well I'd think due to the fact that attaching the dipped bolts would push off the dipped protection somewhat.

was kinda hoping for something goey that would just stick -probabaly will just spray the hell out of everything and not worry -thanks vstech for being the source of reason that you are -

hanno · #18 02-10-2011, 12:15 PM

Try seaching on LPS 3 its available in both spray and liquid.

warmblood58 · #19 02-10-2011, 12:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by busman1965

I like a mixture of linseed oil and melted wax (Gulf wax for home canning), and a bit of turpintine. I melt the wax in a big pot, on a camp stove, then mix in the linseed oil and turpintine, while it is still melted. You can make it as stiff and waxy as you want, by reducing the ratio of liquids to the wax. It will thicken somewhat, when it cools.

I have used this method to treat metal food cans for wet storage on long sea voyages, and it works very well. Cans do not rust, even when stored in the bilge of a boat!!! Bees wax is even better, but it is kind of expensive, so I usually use Gulf wax. I keep a jar of it in my shop all the time, to slush parts with, before shelving them.

Also good to slush down inside doors and underbodys.

Another good thing is thinned down Stockholm Tar (sold at horse tack shops, for hoof treatment). Thin it with mineral sprits, and use it as a brush on, or a dip. It is very messy, but protects like crazy. Great on underbody parts, as it is a brownish black color, so it looks like undercoating!

Now thats the kind of info I was looking for, thanks! Big help!

busman1965 · #20 02-10-2011, 02:34 PM

You are quite welcome. I run a 40 year old boat with 40 year old engines which means we have to have alot of spare parts on board. Keeping them rust free is really important or they are worthless when you need them!!

Another product that is really good is a marine product called "Slick Seam". It is a heavy wax/grease for caulking leaks, but its also a great rust preventer and anti-seize compound. I use it on underwater parts of outboard motors, and they come apart easily, years later!!! Its about $10 for a butter tub size container (at West Marine). You can smear it on with a rag, to metal surfaces, like cosmoline, and it sheads water like a duck! Great for chassis bolts and such.

Good luck!

toecutter · #21 02-10-2011, 07:57 PM

http://www.cosmolinedirect.com/?gclid=CLOThr_y_qYCFYSK4AodoBKbeA

warmblood58 · #22 02-13-2011, 04:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by busman1965

I like a mixture of linseed oil and melted wax (Gulf wax for home canning), and a bit of turpintine. I melt the wax in a big pot, on a camp stove, then mix in the linseed oil and turpintine, while it is still melted. You can make it as stiff and waxy as you want, by reducing the ratio of liquids to the wax. It will thicken somewhat, when it cools.

I have used this method to treat metal food cans for wet storage on long sea voyages, and it works very well. Cans do not rust, even when stored in the bilge of a boat!!! Bees wax is even better, but it is kind of expensive, so I usually use Gulf wax. I keep a jar of it in my shop all the time, to slush parts with, before shelving them.

Also good to slush down inside doors and underbodys.

Another good thing is thinned down Stockholm Tar (sold at horse tack shops, for hoof treatment). Thin it with mineral sprits, and use it as a brush on, or a dip. It is very messy, but protects like crazy. Great on underbody parts, as it is a brownish black color, so it looks like undercoating!

Thanks again, just made up some of this and put it into new quart cans that I picked up at the hardware. It sets up when cool naturally but I just put the can in a double boiler to remelt and then dip clean parts and voila, nice coating for future use. My expensive bumper parts will now not corrode and will be easier to remove in the future should I need to do so -thanks pal! Sometimes old school is the way to go, actually most of the time old school works, nothing new under the sun as they say, thanks!