Wondering about Wagons ( early 80s 300TD) - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

earnyerturn · #1 02-12-2011, 01:19 PM

Folks of the Benz knowledge,

I am most certainly still a newbie to this realm, but was hoping to acquire some advice on potential TD wagon purchase.

I posted here last summer while looking at what I thought was a 'sweet' rig, and got GREAT responses. The passion and truthful opinions from experience were greatly appreciated. In the end it seemed that the 82 td wagon w/ too many issues for my economic/living situation stayed in Duluth.

In the ensuing months I looked at this car and that one... Found sweet deals (or so I thought) and others where I felt the seller was out of their mind. However as my seasonal employment has brought me to the south west I may have found a potential match...

1984 300 TD wagon
216 K
5 Cylinder inline
3.0L engine
Body in STELLAR shape
No rust on frame or body
Tranny shift = smooth
Glow plugs = Awesome
Alternator = Solid
Oil = holds its own
Smokey starts = none
Rear end = SAGS
Tailgate = have to use pole to hold it up
Brakes = needs new pads soon
Tires = probably need them soon
Spare tire = shot
Interior = Nice not immaculate, but not FUBAR'd

So on the initial I am thinking pretty highly of this potential project (fixing on doing the bio blend thing) - but need to keep a straight poker face b/c there are still some things to get sorted out (especially I am going to travel back to southern Wisconsin for the summer (car and myself are presently in Utah))

From what I have experienced with this vintage of MBs is the rear suspension always seems to sag b/c of that vacuum autolevel business - the local place "Werners Mercedes" quoted $850 to convert to 300SD shocks, noting that would take care of the sag. Is there a more economical way to do this? I mean if its not a HUGE deal I wouldn't be totally loading it with stuff to get back to the midwest, but had figured it might be important to do something for this.

Then I didn't know what the brake pads would be, but that HAS to get taken care of.

Was figuring that tires would be in the 280-400 range...

Is there anything else I am really missing? Is 1984 a solid year for this model? I seem to remember a friend mentioning some type of switch on the engine head after 83 (e.g. swapped to aluminum vs. steel) Are there disadvantages to that?

The guy is asking in the 2K obo range for price... knowing I am going to have to drop another 1+k or so into it on the initial is it a complete faux paus to offer 12-15 hundred? Didn't want to slam any good karma out there...

Of course since I have found this car I'd found several other 81-87 sedans that seem to be in rocking shape, get better mpg's and are in a similar ballpark price range. I however seem to be thinking the wagon would fit my lifestyle better, haul more gear/ sleep in it whence needed... Are there any reg flags to the wagon that may be overlooked?

So that's the beginning of the saga, hopefully as the intro and additional chapters get written it will be more a complete story, but until then, any and all advice/ commentary is appreciated...

Thanks
-Brian

ashedd · #2 02-12-2011, 01:51 PM

A rust free wagon is worth getting. The other problems can be fixed. My TD has very good mechanics but has rust problems. I could potentially swap all the good stuff from my TD to a rust free body and have a perfect wagon.

Your not going to find a truly rust free car in WI. I would feel a little weird about going out of my way to get a rust free car only to bring it back to the midwest, IMHO.

Sounds like a $1000ish TD to me.

Goodluck

EDIT:

I just actually read your entire post

$1500 if you simply MUST have it.
$1200 if it's ok, questionable paint, good records.
$1000 I would feel ok with that.
$800 perfect price for me.

Carpenterman · #3 02-12-2011, 03:08 PM

These wagons are a real pleasure to own and drive. Rust is the most important determinant, IMO. So apparently you are good there.

The rear end sag is due to failed accumulators--$250 in parts and an afternoon's work. Maybe a $10 rebuild kit and another afternoon if the valve is leaking. I wouldn't go with a spring replacement kit, as the wagon just won't be the same.

You need two hatch pistons (struts) that can be found for around $25 each if you look carefully. A couple hours work to replace.

You didn't say if the AC works or whether you care one way or the other.

At that mileage the car is just entering middle age. If it has been well-maintained then it's really nothing to be concerned about. You will have to begin thinking about general oil leaks, oil cooler lines, timing chain stretch, driveline rubbers and rear axles. And maybe front suspension work. Does the car steer well?--that's one indication of the state of the front suspension.

I'd pay $1500 without AC and $1750 if the AC works. Take a look at ebay to see what the market is.

leathermang · #4 02-12-2011, 05:17 PM

I loved my 81 turbo... it just had too many things wrong for me to keep it.. but for $2000 I drove it two years and sold it for $750.... it got 27 mpg out on the road going 75mph...
They have the potential for being a great road car due to aerodynamics ...and they are the prettiest car design I know of... mine had 275,000 miles on the odometer and it was broken .... it sat for 18 months in back of the garage.. and when the guy that bought it came and put a battery in it.. ( nothing else, no new fuel, no nothing... ).... it started within 3 seconds.... it just had too much front end suspension, back suspension and AC needed for me to afford to fix it...

vstech · #5 02-12-2011, 05:23 PM

Most here will advise against the SD SPRING retrofit. if the SLS can be saved, SAVE IT! without the SLS it's just not a wagon.
does it sag when parked, all the time, is the fluid full? are the hoses shot?
TONS of repair info on the wagon, and it's really simple to rebuild.

MTUpower · #6 02-12-2011, 05:29 PM

If you are handy and mechanically inclined the car's a great deal. The hatch needs struts/shocks as explained. If you have the tools its a two hour job for both sides. The rear end sagging could be the accumulators- which can be bought used if they are still good. New ones are are $110 each- and the car may need one or both. It may need neither if the valve is leaking- just new valve o rings- or it may need a whole new suspension- uh oh. Most of the time it the accumulators. Check on the passenger side the bottle behind the headlight- that's the suspension fluid bottle- it has a rubber top that doubles as a dip stick. It may just be out of fluid.... if you add the right fluid (blue bottle FEBI brand- fluid is clear slightly yellow) it may just work fine. The rest of the car sounds great- especially the no rust part. Sounds like you need to investigate more and take pictures and get back with us.

Styler_Colfax · #7 02-12-2011, 07:00 PM

I loved the wagon I had minus the fact that the PO didn't take care of it and it sat for about 4 years. The interior was rough and the climate control system needed a couple redo.

BUT the look of a W123 wagon is sweet.

kerry · #8 02-12-2011, 07:30 PM

Sag could be as simple as a missing adjustment rod.

busman1965 · #9 02-12-2011, 08:55 PM

My wagons rear had a serious sag, when I bought it, it turned out to be a broken linkage to the control valve. I fixed it with a old autopilot linkage, from my junk box. Even if the accumulators are bad, the suspension should still pump up to proper height, if the pump, control valve, and linkage are working.

Having owned several Mercedes diesel sedans, and finally buying a TD Wagon, I highly recommend the wagon, it is really a fine vehicle, and is really a joy to drive. I think it drives and handles as well as the sedans, and it really gets alot of positive attention, plus it is ultra versatile.

You cant lose on a nice rustfree TD, they are always going to have value, as they are always in demand, and have aged well. I am already looking for another one, as my girlfriend wants one, after driving mine!

earnyerturn · #10 02-12-2011, 09:21 PM

To the previous replies:

THANK YOU, Muchas Gracias...

I just got back from another check out round, but the owner was not there so I didn't get as much as I wanted from the experience.

I do have some photos, exterior and some interior; but as no one was home I was a little sketched about certain aspects of inspection...

To the folks from the midwest: yeah I can hear you about it being silly to drive it back there - to the argument, I wouldn't be making a special trip out West, I am here for a few more months. I generally start getting my search on as spring rolls around in hopes that I might find that sweet beauty needing a new home. I know I will be going back to middle America to visit at this point. If I make this happen I'll pretty much be religious about prevention of oxidation...

You all have re-assured me about the rear saggage... I am not the most handy person at the ready, but can research stuff and figure it all out ( worked several seasons repairing sea kayaks and dealing with 15 pax vans/trailers to monkey wrench about) w/ available info/this forum/buddy who is all about the MB factor I feel all right about it.

There doesn't seem to be OIL leakage that I could definitively identify, but there was a wet spot on the driveway, that smelled like fuel... Not sure if the line is cracked or what, but that was the only saucey issue.

Interior is fine - dash cracked, but that's no biggie to me...

I appreciate the initial (rapid) response, I can try to figure out the photo thing and put up some shots...

Thanks and reckon I'll be bouncing around here in the near and longterm future...

Cheers
Brian

leathermang · #11 02-12-2011, 09:38 PM

The place to check for serious rust ... possibly all the way through.. is under the battery on the firewall.... easy to not see it upon normal inspection...

polarisrmk · #12 02-12-2011, 10:07 PM

90 percent chance the suspension will need the "bombs" (fluid and air filled reservoirs that are the heart of the suspension) these can be pricey if you don't put them in yourself there are two of them. expect to pay 100-150 each for new ones. also while you are doing this replace the fluid and filter for good measure.

ImBroke · #13 02-13-2011, 09:29 AM

A running driving rust free wagon for 2k sounds good considering the work it needs. Fix the rear suspension (not the spring way), rebuild the front suspension, and it'll be a nice riding car, for sure.

vstech · #14 02-13-2011, 10:04 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by leathermang

The place to check for serious rust ... possibly all the way through.. is under the battery on the firewall.... easy to not see it upon normal inspection...

and inside the rear fender cabinets on each side. look UP with a flashlight. under the rear side window channels notorious for rusting badly.