That's the timing device. Very bad news.

Arrrrgggggh!

Yeah,you're gonna have to pull the Hydraulic Tensioner to get enough slack
in the Chain to get the "Timer" (With the "Ramps") out.The Bolt that holds
the Timing Device is REVERSE Threaded (I.E. "Lefty Tighty, Righty loosy")
[I'd "Tye Wrap" the chain to the Camshaft Sprocket in 4 or 5 places.]
(Retains Timing)
(Heck if the Crank is "Locked",nothing wrong with removing the Camshaft
Sprocket to get EVEN MORE slack in the Chain.)
Actually I'd get ahold of a Flywheel/Crankshaft Lock and secure the Crank
BEFORE attempting to LOOSEN the Timer's Bolt...DO NOT RELY on the I.P.
Locking Device to Provide enough holding power to be able to R+R the
Timer's Bolt.You will be SAD!!!

GSXR has great pictures of this procedure!

OM603: Vacuum pump explosion, bearing intact! Injection Pump Timing device wrecked

Bad "Ramps" on the Timer will Eat Up a New V.P. in short order.

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'84 300SD sold
124.128

Are you saying that it's possible to remove the timing device without removing the front timing cover?

On the parts engine, we tried EVERYTHING to get it out. The cam had been removed previously, as had the tensioner, so there was all the slack in the world for the chain, and we STILL couldn't get the chain to move to the "right" as you face the engine enough to release the timing device sprocket from the timing chain. It seems there's a boss of some kind cast into the timing cover, and we tried every angle we could and it wouldn't clear enough room to let the timing mechanism slide forward and out.

Any ideas? I saw the picture in GSXR's thread where he had clearly removed it with the cover in place, but I couldn't see how he did it; all it showed was the end result.

__________________


~Michael S.~
Past cars:

1986 300SDL
1987 300SDL
1982 240D
1982 300SD


Current:

1987 300SDL

I know that it can be done with the injection pump off, then the sprocket (timing device) can be moved away from said pin and disengaged from the chain.

With the IP on the engine? I don't think that you can get the chain off, might have to separate the chain, ... easier to remove and re-time the IP IMO.

__________________

Gone to the dark side

- Jeff

Picture shows "Timer Gone,With I.P. Shaft still in place."

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'84 300SD sold
124.128

Good news: We found the pull-able dowel pin that was blocking us from removing the old timer. So, we think we'll be able to change the timer out easily enough now.

New question: how do you bench test a vac pump?

Thanks, all.

__________________


~Michael S.~
Past cars:

1986 300SDL
1987 300SDL
1982 240D
1982 300SD


Current:

1987 300SDL

Update: Chewed up timing device has been successfully removed. Timing chain and cam sprocket are suspended from garage ceiling by bungee cords to keep the timing from slipping. Re-timing or at least checking the timing of the injection pump is a given at this point.

Installation will proceed after we dig around and find the washer from the cam bolt that got dropped down the hole.

__________________


~Michael S.~
Past cars:

1986 300SDL
1987 300SDL
1982 240D
1982 300SD


Current:

1987 300SDL

Couple of bits of advice and a question.
1. Look at your bad pump and try to determine if you have all the pieces, that will tell you if there is anything still in the engine. If there is, you may want to drop the pan to look for the missing pieces. I had a similar situation and there were pieces in the pan and also damage to the area immediately under the crank sprocket for the timing chain. If a bit of debris is carried down to that area, there is close clearance between the chain and what I think is an oil deflector, part of the block itself. Of course, if you can verify that you have all the pieces you don't have to worry.
2. Use the forum tool rental program to get the electronic timing tool. You may be able to set it by eye, but it is really difficult, the tool is well worth the few dollars to rent it.

Question - was this a Pierberg pump? I am surprised that it failed.

I had a similar failure, repaired it and the car is running fine now.

John

Been there, done that, and satisfied that enough parts came out to account for everything "significant". Next step after we have it all buttoned back up is to change the oil, which will hopefully carry out any remaining debris. The thing was run about 100 miles from when the pump failed to when we took it apart, so I figure it all shook down to wherever it was going to within that driving time. We know for a fact that nothing else was dropped down the cavity once dismantling started, except for the washer we dropped and are still fishing around for. But no more pump shrapnel.

Dad's doing that part of it with me "assisting" = learning by watching... I'm finishing up my last semester at ASU so I don't really have the opportunity to work on it much 100 miles away from school. I'll tell him it's available and see what he wants to do. We've got a paper service book and I think he's still studying it out.

Not only a Pierburg, but an "updated style" Pierberg with the "protected" bearings.

Edit: Dropping the pan on a 603 (your signature doesn't say what engines you're familiar with, so maybe you're used to 617s? just wondering) is the avoid-if-possible solution. It involves removing a frame cross member, undoing the engine mounts, and hoisting or jacking (we had to use jacks and wood blocks last time) the engine high enough for the pan to clear. We did it four years ago when I cracked the oil pan on a speed hump and vowed never to do it again if we could help it.

__________________


~Michael S.~
Past cars:

1986 300SDL
1987 300SDL
1982 240D
1982 300SD


Current:

1987 300SDL

I'm LEANING towards:

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'84 300SD sold
124.128

I don't believe that the chain can "jump time" on the crank, there is a pin beneath it to prevent this from happening. I tried to get the chain to move one link with the engine upside-down on a stand, working with the oil pan off, and couldn't.

One zip-tie on the cam-sproket to hold the chain to it is sufficient.

The IP timing can't jump either with the IP in place, another pin next to the timing device.

This is in my '87 engine, I believe that all 602/603 engines are the same.

__________________

Gone to the dark side

- Jeff

What's the price on that pump?

__________________

Gone to the dark side

- Jeff

With the lobes worn off that bad you have a lot of metal shavings in the motor. Hopefully the filter got a lot of it.

If you can't drop the pan you may be able to use a STRONG magnet to drag along the bottom of the oil pan before you drain it. Pull it toward the drain plug. Hopefully when you open it much of the debris on the botton, will flow out.

While the plug is out I would drag the magnet again and then dump a couple more quarts in to let a little more flush out.

I'd then put in cheap oil and new filter run for just a few minutes and repeat.

My vacuum pump is the original, and one of the next things on the list to do. I don't need a gernade going off in my engine right now! I actually just found find an updated MB version (sealed bearing version) on a car at the junkyard down the road. Very Lucky find for $30 vs. over $300!!!

Good luck with the work and rebuild!

__________________

1987 300TD 147,000 miles- Palomino leather interior, 1995 facelift and body cladding, E350 wheels, Rebuilt suspension and sport springs, rebuilt turbo, New Monarch injection pump and injectors....and the list goes on and on...

http://www.google.com/search?aq=f&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8&q=MES-DEA+70%2F6E

Mog,

First one I saw(STUPID Exorbitant Retail)
[I'd NEVER pay that!]

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'84 300SD sold
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http://www.helixev.com/specs/components.html

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'84 300SD sold
124.128