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#1
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Glove box latch problem
The other day, I closed the glove compartment door in our 300D, and I must have done something wrong. The latch now seems out of place, and to get it to stay closed, I have to manually push the "switch" handle on the outside of the door to get it to stay latched. It will now only move one way, when it seems that it would open by moving it either way before. Plus, when the door is closed, the switch is off center. It used to be sort of spring loaded motion, so that when I pushed the switch to open it, it would move back to it's original centered position on it's own. I can still lock it, but it feels like it's meeting resistance. The actual latch arm itself seems to be on the wrong side of the "hasp" that it locks onto on the inside of the door (toward the passenger side). I've tried forcing it lightly back to it's right position, but it doesn't want to give. I don't want to force it so much that I break it. Anybody had this problem? Anybody know anything about taking the actual latch slider switch\button apart to inspect it? Thanks for any help on this! Lee
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"Knowing is not enough, we must apply. Willing is not enough, we must do." Goethe *********************************** 1951 Chevy 3100 2003 Indian Chief Roadmaster 1983 GMC 1 ton Dually 1982 Chevy 1 ton Dually, service body (sold) '90 GMC Suburban 6.2 "SS Veg-Burban" (single tank WVO\diesel conversion) SOLD '81 300D ~ Mama's car...my job (now my car)(but still my job) SOLD '83 300sd ~ rescue car SOLD 2005 Ford Taurus (Mama's new car)(NOT my job!) |
#2
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My glovebox just started doing this too.
Misery and car problems like company!
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-Typos courtesy of my mobile phone. |
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"And so I don't feel so all alo-one...everybody must get (insert your favorite part here)"
Well, we can both figure out this thing together, friend. I'm thinking that maybe the spring in there came unsprung and has it jammed up, but I'd like to take it apart and see for real. But I haven't quite figured out how to get into it yet. The good news is, it still works. Bad news is, it ain't right!
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"Knowing is not enough, we must apply. Willing is not enough, we must do." Goethe *********************************** 1951 Chevy 3100 2003 Indian Chief Roadmaster 1983 GMC 1 ton Dually 1982 Chevy 1 ton Dually, service body (sold) '90 GMC Suburban 6.2 "SS Veg-Burban" (single tank WVO\diesel conversion) SOLD '81 300D ~ Mama's car...my job (now my car)(but still my job) SOLD '83 300sd ~ rescue car SOLD 2005 Ford Taurus (Mama's new car)(NOT my job!) |
#4
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google search above in the search link. something like "w123 glove box repair". *****************************************
many threads on repair of the 123 glove box here.
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Onus probandi incumbit ei qui dicit, non ei qui negat I recondition w123/w126/w124/w140/r107/r129/ steering boxes! 1984 300D "Elsa" odo reset 6/2011 147k 1983 300TD "Mitzi" ~268k OM603 powered 1995 E300 "Adelheid" 262k [Sold] Last edited by vstech; 03-04-2011 at 10:40 PM. Reason: advertising competing site. |
#5
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a few things can go wrong with the latch.
the way it works is the flat metal which provides the 'spring' action pivots on a plastic piece which is molded as part of the black inside plastic layer of the glovebox door. i've had a car that had that pin break, and the solution was to replace that whole inside plastic panel. if you're lucky and that piece hasn't broken, some part of the mechanism may have just slipped out of place. either way you are going to want to remove the glovebox door, remove the inner panel, and inspect the latch mechanism. hope that helps. take pictures when you are working on it, will make it easier to provide advice. |
#6
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There's a trick to disassembling the cover. The "screw" on the right side is really a keyed pin. Make the slot vertical and pop it out. The "key" is a 90-degree stub perpendicular to the slot, so you may need to rotate it 180 to release it. Remove the screws and wiggle the left side out. Then you can disassemble the cover.
The lock needs pressure on both sides to pop it free. I think I did it with three screwdrivers, but it's a PITA. If you have a junkyard or scrap parts car, I'd recommend practicing on one. I think there was some sort of spring or repairable component inside but can't say for sure. I remember it being a bit fiddly to reassemble and get the proper smooth left/right latch motion. |
#7
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Thanks for the help, everybody! I'm going to get out there this morning and take it all apart. Really appreciate the good information. A lot of things I never would have even begun to imagine. Especially the strange screw set up. I'll get back on when I get the door mechanism exposed.
__________________
"Knowing is not enough, we must apply. Willing is not enough, we must do." Goethe *********************************** 1951 Chevy 3100 2003 Indian Chief Roadmaster 1983 GMC 1 ton Dually 1982 Chevy 1 ton Dually, service body (sold) '90 GMC Suburban 6.2 "SS Veg-Burban" (single tank WVO\diesel conversion) SOLD '81 300D ~ Mama's car...my job (now my car)(but still my job) SOLD '83 300sd ~ rescue car SOLD 2005 Ford Taurus (Mama's new car)(NOT my job!) |
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