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#1
03-17-2011, 01:34 PM
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not a merc. but need advice
Hi all hope all is well with all of you.
I have a muffler to change on my bro-in-laws car and need some advice. The assembly is connected by a flange with 2 bolts/nuts that are beyond rusted, pretty much fused together. What's the best action plan to remove them? I was thinking to grind the nut ends flat to to flange, apply a propane torch and using a punch drive the rest out. Any other advice??? Thanks 
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#2
03-17-2011, 02:19 PM
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Gosh, if that is the usual muffler clamp... you are not going to put the same one back on..
so just grind it in two at a place which will allow the whole thing to come off.
__________________
1980 240d , chain elongation, cam marks reference: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/10414-help-i-need-check-stretch.html http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/305365-9-degrees-chain-stretch.html evap fin cleaning: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/156207-photo-step-step-post-showing-w123-evaporator-removal-1983-240d-1982-300td.html?highlight=evaporator A/C thread http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/297462-c-recommendations-mb-vehicles.html
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#4
03-17-2011, 02:46 PM
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If it's a bolted flange instead of a muffler clamp, a Sawzall w/ bimetal blade between nut and flange worked on the cat flange of my accord. Get about 1/2 way thru, and stuff should just begin to twist of or you can break the bolt, then drive it out. Saved the Cat that way.
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CC: NSA All things are burning, know this and be released. 82 Benz 240 D, Kuan Yin 12 Ford Escape 4wd You're four times It's hard to more likely to concentrate on have an accident two things when you're on at the same time. a cell phone. www.kiva.org It's not like there's anything wrong with feeling good, is there?
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#5
03-17-2011, 04:56 PM
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Usually the bolts just twist off and break when they're that rusted. If you're reusing the flange, you'll need to drill & tap new holes or use bolts. That said, I hate doing muffler work on the ground on my back & usually let the local muffler shop install. Simple things he does for not much $$ and I always pay him cash.
__________________
85SD 240K & stopped counting painted, putting bac together. 84SD 180,000. sold to a neighbor and member here but I forget his handle. The 84 is much improved from when I had it. 85TD beginning to repair to DD status. Lots of stuff to do.
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#6
03-17-2011, 06:21 PM
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Knowing what vehicle it's on could be helpful. The flange on my old ford truck was a nut\bolt combo So I just put a ratchet on each side and broke them all off...
Last edited by dude99; 03-18-2011 at 11:15 AM.
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#8
03-17-2011, 10:53 PM
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Was it a U Bolt ...one piece bent 180 degrees with threads on both ends ?
That fitting through a sheet metal flange in two places ?
__________________
1980 240d , chain elongation, cam marks reference: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?threadid=10414 http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/305365-9-degrees-chain-stretch.html evap fin cleaning: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/156207-photo-step-step-post-showing-w123-evaporator-removal-1983-240d-1982-300td.html?highlight=evaporator A/C thread http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/297462-c-recommendations-mb-vehicles.html
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#9
03-18-2011, 02:06 AM
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A $100 would make most muffler shops happy.
__________________
1985 300D 198K sold 1982 300D 202K 1989 300E 125K 1992 940T "If you dont have time to do it safely, you dont have time to do it" "The democracy will cease to exist when you take away from those who are willing to work and give to those who would not."
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#10
03-18-2011, 11:12 AM
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Quote:
__________________
85SD 240K & stopped counting painted, putting bac together. 84SD 180,000. sold to a neighbor and member here but I forget his handle. The 84 is much improved from when I had it. 85TD beginning to repair to DD status. Lots of stuff to do.
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