So I thought I had this figured out, but now i'm not sure what to start with. I have an 83 300TD that i got a couple months ago. Since I got it it's been very bouncy which from this board I narrowed down to bad accumulators(thanks to Biodiesel300TD). At first I thought it might sag a bit, but figured out it rode at the right height and didn't sag overnight. I checked the pump too and it would lift manually so the pump seemed to be fine. The fluid was only a bit low when i got it, just really dark. And I didn't find any leaks from the shocks.

The PO said the car had sat for a while. I haven't got around to doing the accumulators, but yesterday I found out what the wagon looks like with a saggy rear end. I noticed yesterday that the rear sagged down and even after driving doesn't come up. But the weird thing is that now it drives like it has a normal suspension. No longer do I bounce down the country roads.

So I guess my question is where to look now? Do you think I have a bad pump and accumulators? Is it bad to drive it in this condition...will i possibly cause more damage to the suspension? Any advice would be much appreciate as I'm still trying to figure out the in's and out's of the SLS.

I'm guessing the initial bouncing was being caused by the valve not working and therefore not energizing the shocks and accumulators. The valve just started working but is now also not sealing correctly. If I were you I would flush the system of the old fluid and install a new filter and fluid and see what happens.

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1977 300d 70k--sold 08
1985 300TD 185k+
1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03
1985 409d 65k--sold 06
1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car
1979 300SD 122k--sold 2/11
1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper
1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4
1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13

First I'd make sure you have fluid.
Black fluid could mean a few things.
1. Wrong fluid - the real stuff when new is clear.
2. Old fluid. - the fluid blackens with age.
3. Motor oil has gotten into you fuild via the pump.

If the res is low/empty add some mineral oil/baby oil until it's full. Then see what happens.
If the res is full. I'd try as kerry suggested and flush the system.

Also make sure the connecting rod on the lever arm hasn't broken or come off. This would cause the rear to all kinds of weird things.

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Alright, I'll try that this weekend. I'm guessing the fluid is pretty old since the PO had it in her barn for a number of years.

As long as there is fluid in the res, is there any harm driving it until i get it checked out?

I was under the impression the bouncy he is talking about, the one i also have, the one that we suspect is bad accumulators, happens when shocks are overly pressurized with fluid because the air membrane in the accumulators has ruptured. I think it is the air in the accumulators which allows the shocks to dampen rather than just bounce.

My car used to not be bouncy but it rode low a littlle and wagged in back. I got a new dog bone that attached lever to the torsion bar and adjusted ride height and actuated my shocks for first time in who knows how long. Since then, for last 6 months, car ride height is nice its just bouncy as heck over any little bump. I"ve bumped my head on the ceiling before. My friends make fun of me.

I can load 1000 lbs of concrete in back and it rides nice and level and less bouncy Man i love that wagon. I'm can't wait to get the bounce fixed. Am i right in thinking the accumulators are what provide the cushion?

bigleu, perhaps your dog bone broke or the came disconnected from the torsion bar and now your SLS actuator is not at the neutral position anymore.

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What Would Rudolph Do?
1975 300D, 1975 240D, 1985 300SD, 1997 300D, 2005 E320 , 2006 Toyota Prius

Yes.

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1977 300d 70k--sold 08
1985 300TD 185k+
1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03
1985 409d 65k--sold 06
1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car
1979 300SD 122k--sold 2/11
1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper
1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4
1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13

hmm...so at the beginning of the week I had about a 2 hour drive. After making a couple stops I noticed the rear end was back at the right height. Now it seems like it's not quite as bouncy as before, but still more than it was when it was sagging. Hope to get the fluid and filter changed next week and i'll see what it does.

Let us know how it goes.

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If it levels, the pump and valves are okay.

If it doesn't leak, the dampers are okay. The damper is basically a shock absorber with an external fluid supply and accumulator.

The dampers do the damping, accumulators allow the fluid somewhere to go during jounce/compression. If an accumulator (sphere) or accumulators are ruptured, the gas from the accumulator will escape into the fluid, and the dampers will not damp (control motion) because they are designed for fluid, not a compressible fluid/gas. Once all of the gas has escaped and been bumped & pumped back to the tank, the dampers will become hydrolocked. This will make it ride like a Corvette (aka: ride like a lumber-wagon). The rear will have the effect of being bolted solid, and cause a jarring ride over bumps.

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Gone to the dark side

- Jeff

change the accumulators they are the absorbers of the travel of the hydraulic pistons, bouncing = bad accumulators. They are easy to change and not too much $$