So my right front brake caliper is sticking pretty bad, and this leads me to several questions.

I popped the wheels off of the front and the brake pads seem to be evenly worn, but the R/F wheel won't turn (at least not without some force) and the L/F is fine.

My questions are as follows ,

I did notice a "lip" at the edge of the vented rotor...does this mean I can't reuse it?

If the caliper is stuck..should I get a new one or try to replace the seals...I'm leaning towards replacement.

If I did replace the R/F, would I have to replace the L/F as well, as they would still both be ATE brand?

I would be replacing my front brake lines as well. After doing this, do I have to bleed both front and back, or would back brakes (there fine and I wouldn't be touching them) be fine.

I also get the impression that most of you like ceramic pads vs metallic.

Thanks,
Duke1

The front and the Back Brakes have a separate circuit and the Brake Fluid reservoir is divided so you I do not think you need to bleed the rear.

If you are putting new Brake Pads on the Old Rotor should be resurfaced or replaced with a New Rotor. If you take the Old Rotor to be resurfaced ask them to measure the thickness of the Rotor and give a gestimate if they will be able to resurface it or not. Sometimes once they are cut they are too thin to reuse.

If you fix only ones side of the Brakes your Car will most likely pull towards the side you Fixed when you Brake. So it is a bad Idea just to do one Brake on one side.

When one Caliper is frozen/sticking it is often due to a bunch of rusty muck inside of the Caliper causing the Piston to stick. The other side most likely has the same muck in it but has not stuck yet.

You front Brakes do most of the stopping so that are not the part of the Car to try to save a little money on.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

I cannot comment on the Brake Pads as I use anything that has a lifetime warranty on mine; and hope I can find the receipt when the wear out so I can get a new set.
You might want to review how others have done the job you are facing.

DIY Repair Links
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diy-links-parts-category/

http://www.peachparts.com/Wikka/DoItYourSelf

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Yes, a lip is normal, you need to measure the thickness inside that.

I'll suggest replacing both front calipers, it won't matter which manufacturer, just be sure both fronts or rears are of the same brand.

The attachment (you have a 126.120) shows the wear limits allowed, as mentioned don't go below that. If it's going to be close, replace with new rotors. The fronts take time=labor=money to re-install, so keep that in mind also.

Pads are up to you, I use Textar or Pagid, these are OEM.

I'm not sure if you need to bleed the whole system, but the above advice sounds sound.

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83 SD

84 CD

2 brands of calipers were used ATE & you'll have to look up the other one. It doesn't matter what brand you use as long as they are a set. You have to weigh the price and quality of the rebuilt caliper against the price of rebuilding yourself. Installing new seals isn't difficult. Fast lane has the kit.

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85SD 240K & stopped counting painted, putting bac together. 84SD 180,000. sold to a neighbor and member here but I forget his handle. The 84 is much improved from when I had it. 85TD beginning to repair to DD status. Lots of stuff to do.

All the above sounds good. I think for ease of mind, I'll replace both calipers, and rotors as well as brake lines. Don't want to have to do it again for awhile.

Thanks very much for the replies.

Duke1

It all depends on what brand reman you change it with. I cringe every time I go with Cardone because their cheap price hooks me. Sometimes you get a lot of practice changing parts by using Cardone. That's why I ALWAYS buy Cardone locally and as a last resort when possible failure caused aggravation is severely offset by low price. Ask Roy about rebuild details & go with his suggestion. He probably has brake including rebuild links somewhere.

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85SD 240K & stopped counting painted, putting bac together. 84SD 180,000. sold to a neighbor and member here but I forget his handle. The 84 is much improved from when I had it. 85TD beginning to repair to DD status. Lots of stuff to do.

The other brand is Girling.
If you ever rebuild your own Calipers check out the instructions on the Girlings. I believe the Heat Shields are more difficult go get on Girlings than the ATE ones.
In the Service Manual the ATE Brake Calipers are sometimes called TEVIS, TEVAS, TVES (I cannot remember exactly but you will know to look for something that starts with T).

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Just curious, why do they have to be a set? I mean brakes are brakes right? I am referring to the calipers of course. I can imagine that pads could be different in terms of composition and thickness between manufacturers, but calipers should be built to specs right?

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1987 300TD
1984 300D
755,000 KM and going strong
BC Canada

The reman Cardone calipers on the front of the SD are Bendix.

I've had 'em on there for years, no problems.

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83 SD

84 CD

Oh, ok...but I meant more like on left side is Bendix and right side is ATE, which is the case on my rears.

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1987 300TD
1984 300D
755,000 KM and going strong
BC Canada

My fronts are ATE. It was explained to me (or at least I think this is what I heard) that you wouldn't want a "new" caliper on one side and an old one on the other, as they could have pressure differences. I figured with rotors being as "cheap" as they are, it made sense. I also went with new hoses for "insurance". I checked around for prices and got what I think is a pretty good deal on the whole shebang. I can report back with my thoughts after I get then installed.

If you're not having problems, don't worry about it.

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83 SD

84 CD

I just did this a couple months ago, and also decided to replace pads,rotors,calipers and hoses. Make shure you get all the hardware with the new caliper. I had one caliper that was missing one of the pins and had to wait three days to get another.

From what I have been told most big box stores won't turn slotted or drilled rotors.

I think the reason for not mixing calipers might have to do with piston size.

O'Reilly's lifetime warranty -have had good luck with these. I too thought about rebuilding but just not worth time and effort not to mention results. Rebuilt units are cheap, are cleaned up nicely and ready to go!