83 300SD, bent frame, 155k, should I buy? - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

mumbles · #1 04-04-2011, 01:07 PM

Looked at this car today as a potential engine/parts donor but it's in much better shape than my current car. It's got a salvage title for a bent frame up front but engine looks untouched. 155k, engine looks dry, sounds nice, no blow by that I could tell, almost no rust, been sitting for at least 4 years but inspection is from 2002, trailing arms just have a little surface rust, torsion bar is rusty, a little surface rust on the frame from the accident, no oil cooler, no power steering belt but pump spins freely, axle boots still good, muffler (exists) looks and sounds good, AND the interior is a 9/10. Guy says he's got replacement fenders and parts somewhere.

The price is fair, but how do y'all feel about bent frames? I'm thinking it makes more sense to invest in fixing this frame than putting money into my current car. I won't know how it drives for a while but even if the tranny is shot I have my current one as a backup at least, and if the frame is shot it's still worth it for the engine, body, and parts. Thoughts anyone? Thanks!

~ Brian

PS ~ frame looks rusty but it's just a brown car.

tbomachines · #2 04-04-2011, 01:34 PM

I wouldn't pay more for that than a junkyard engine, maybe $200. Why not hold out for a good body?

barry123400 · #3 04-04-2011, 01:53 PM

Getting it really cheap is the issue as mentioned above. Then if it turns out too problamatic to straighten there is nothing lost. As it is with the age and cost of body shops it is only worth really scrap prices in my opinion. For example you may have to pull a lot apart to straighten or rep;lace the the frame rail first.

Walkenvol · #4 04-04-2011, 03:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tbomachines

I wouldn't pay more for that than a junkyard engine, maybe $200. Why not hold out for a good body?

I just got $350 for a body for salvage metal price with the motor and transmission removed . While I cant tell how badly the damaged is to the unibody (no frame here), you can't go wrong paying $400 - $500 if it has a good running motor with 150 K. Any body damage can be fixed with enough effort. Heck, cut the good front half off your existing car and weld it to the new car if its better. Good luck.

Junkman · #5 04-04-2011, 04:24 PM

Buy it as a parts car. Get him to throw in the extra fenders. Fix or strip as you decide later.

Is it anywhere near middle TN? I'll buy it.

mumbles · #6 04-04-2011, 05:22 PM

He'll take $700 for it down from $850, fenders, bumper and some other parts are included, plus he might throw in a tow/delivery, and between good trailing arms, window motors, seats, muffler/exhaust, interior bits and pieces, body panels, windshield, half axles, I think it's probably worth it for the parts. If the engine is good, I was planning on swapping it anyways, so it's not like that's any more work. I'm gonna see if I can get another pair of eyes on it.

It's hard finding a good body, and my current SD only has a little body rust, but the rest of the chassis is well worn and the engine is tired. I probably won't ever have the money to buy an outright nice and complete car so I'm forced to kinda cobble together my ride. I live in an area that's got high demand for these cars... greasecar was started, and still is, just down the road.

What do you guys pay for engines then? And how do you assess used engines if they aren't in the car?

Junkman, where you at? I'm in New England but I lived in M'boro for a year.

~ Brian

vstech · #7 04-04-2011, 05:47 PM

... I paid $350 for my 83 driver with 177K on it, I paid $0 for my 82SD, I can go on...
the thing is, you have to be patient, and you have to be constantly on the lookout for a good car. you also have to have the cash in your pocket when the deals show up.

Junkman · #8 04-04-2011, 06:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mumbles

Junkman, where you at? I'm in New England but I lived in M'boro for a year.~ Brian

I'm downtown Mboro.

That car is over priced. It is a parts car unless someone wants it. Don't be the one who over pays.

What do you want? If a driver, look in the south & have it shipped or drive it back. It will be worth the $1,000 or so shipping costs to start with a better rust free car. Alternatively, you could buy from a member & fly to pick it up.

Ask your local tow yards to keep an eye out. You have to keep checking back but they'll sell for ~ salvage value. The one near me just picked up a 300D that was in a storage lot. The owner didn't pay the storage bill so it was hauled off. It needs more work than I'm willing to put in or I'd buy it.

mumbles · #9 04-04-2011, 06:45 PM

Awesome, I miss my friends from TN a great deal.

I was only looking for an engine for my driver but I also need trailing arms a lot sooner than I hoped.

Vstech, quit bragging! I paid $750 for mine, had to completely redo brakes and lines, alternator, fuel sender, front bearings, tierods, idler arm, couple of tires, battery, etc, just to get it on the road. Now I'm refreshing the driveshaft and fixing exhaust leaks and prolly some body rust next to pass inspection.

I guess I'll pass, try to find the parts separately. I was hoping paying to fix this one would be cheaper and quicker and last longer than dumping money into mine. Anyone got a 1994 Dodge Caravan for sale? Or a 617.951 for that matter?

~ Brian

Junkman · #10 04-04-2011, 09:44 PM

Just point out the problems and offer him cash. Ben Franklins look nice on a MBZ. Either he takes your offer or not. If he takes offense...well, you don't have to see him again anyway. Nothing ventured....

Walkenvol · #11 04-05-2011, 09:16 AM

While I agree with junkman that the price is a little high, not too much though if you know its a good running no blowby 155K motor that you need. Vstech's deals are not the norm for my area and I'd grow old waiting to find such. Took me 6 months of steady looking to locate then negotiate down to $325 for one that had been sitting for 1 year with some rust. Only thing that worked well was the motor and it has some blowby. What would you pay for just a good running motor? Add $350 to that and you have a fair price to you. Anything below that is gravy. If you can sell a few parts before you scrap it to recoup some more $ then even better. Good luck.

vstech · #12 04-05-2011, 09:23 AM

dig away!
mercedes diesel benz OR 300 OR D site:craigslist.org google search...

FL SD $900

L.A. CA, 84SD no start $1K OBO

G WAGON DIESEL engine $700)!!!!!!

85SD light hail damage, everything works (38mpg???) $2400

Orv · #13 04-06-2011, 01:36 PM

Look into what it takes to insure, first. Some insurance companies won't touch a car with a salvage title.

Does it drive straight?

markn · #14 04-06-2011, 02:50 PM

do you have a oil cooler and lines? i have a 1984 dt 300 need parts for

Zacharias · #15 04-06-2011, 03:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mumbles

The price is fair, but how do y'all feel about bent frames? I'm thinking it makes more sense to invest in fixing this frame than putting money into my current car.

This depends on where you're at and how patient you are.

Are you REALLY up for all the work that is going to be involved? Either way you go, parting it or fixing it, you have a lot of work ahead. Start at the front of the car and start thinking, inch by inch, of what is needed and how much time each job will take. Be especially honest with yourself on the latter.

From lousy experience I dislike cars that have sat for more than a year, especially with the underhood area exposed to the elements. The '82 SD I bought that way, from Cali, was an immense pain in the butt from the word go.

If you are in a state that is at least so-so in terms of rust, then my advice is to hold out for something better. There is no reason to take on a project like this if you can wait and possibly scoop up a complete and viable runner for a few hundred more.

If you're in a rustbelt area, and determined to take it, then I think you should try to get him down another $100 or so. And then stock up on energy drinks