That part from MB.

Item Number MSRP Core Price Price
2016800065 $17.50 $0.00 $15.75
Instrument panel - Instrument panel - Bezel
Bezel 1984 - 1993

Cypress, according to your article on wiring the trim ring, you where looking for a time-delayed circuit, so as to tye the trim ring into the interior dimmer system. Did you ever find such a circuit or did you have to build one?

Dome lights with delays from other models will fit. Don't know why they want more for my W201, while W126, 124, etc...cost next to nothing. So I got one from another model.

So yes, my ignition trim ring is connected to the dome light delay circuit.

Cool. Apparently from the way your talking, the timer delay circuitry is built into the dome light assembly and not something seperate under the dash. Is this correct ?
I can get one from Potomac German Auto. They have a whole line of w126 chassis setting in their yard! I have to go out that way next week, so I'll stop by.
Greg

Cypress, in customizing your dash cluster external wiring for the led's you used in the CCU and console, did you have to drill holes in the circuit board to snake the wires through and also what gauge wire did you use?
I'm currently modifying the real dash at this moment. I need to see the gauges at night! Until I get all the parts to make a project like you did, I'm using the factory wiring with two T-5 wedge leds. They emit allot of light, especially if your use reflective tape, like that found on trailers in the bulb compartment and along the top of the line tunnel.
Your assumption about the puff of smoke when initially turning on the leds was correct. I smoked a wiring trace. Instead of fixing the trace, I soldered a wiring between the connector lug for the dash light power and the rheostat. Works great! Now I understand a comment you made about re-soldering all connections on a CCU for the ground connector for the entire cluster fell off in my hand. The cold solder joint broke loose and had to be re-done. I'll get pic's up in a few days of the finished-interm project.

No drilling required.

Yeah, when you short something & no fuse on circuit, thinnest trace will burn.

The current will be very low, I just used any wire I could find...I think I used 18gauge & 22gauge for the octopus led cable.

You might want to check this out, here is another option:
http://cgi.ebay.com/Mercedes-W124-W126-W201-190-Plasma-tacho-glow-gauge-/120711747674?pt=Autoteile_Zubeh%C3%B6r&hash=item1c1afb185a

Thanks Cypress, but those display's only work for 124, 126 and 190's so I'm out lof luck.........
BTW, I beleive from reading your disortation, that you're using the factory rheostate along with the IR controller to control led dimming on your dash. Is this correct or did I get side-tracked somewhere.

I cannot not get the facory rheostate to dim the led's. I talked to a EE who all confirmed it would not work without modification. How did you get around this hurdle?

Yeah I know, just to tease you.

Your EE friends are correct. The rheostat will NOT dim leds like incandescent. I think the rheostat (13ohms) drops about 3V, so it dims just a little bit. The leds would get about 10V, instead of 13.5V.

My led strip gets it's power from the rheostat (so dims it a bit), BUT the dimming is mostly by the controller.

Thanks Cypress. Yes research indicates that Led's are current driven (2 ma) and not voltage driven as incandescent (resistive) bulbs are.
Got the cluster back in the car and somewhat happy with the lighting at the moment. It may not have the RGB function yet, but it sure beats the dimm 3 watt bulbs factory bulbs. Plus now the console and temp control panel lights are working also.
Now on to other problems, now the clock doesn't work nor the front and rear dome lights work either. Here's a thought, maybe in shorting out the wiring trace, I also blew a fuse. It would make sence that these devices are on the same circuit. I'll check it with a meter tonight.

All the complaints about 240d and 300d dash lights are easily solved with 10 WATT Xenon bulbs from Bulbs.com or 1000bulbs.com - put them in a friend's 240d and the cluster is lit up like a modern one - the factory used a ridiculous 3 watt bulb and the most you can get in a parts store is 4.6 watts in a 168 bulb
Bulbrite 715510 - 10 Watt - T3.25 base

I would be very concerned about the heat generated by a 10 watt halogen bulb. You would likely melt the instrument cluster plastic, etc.

I would stay with the stock bulbs or go LED.

Sincerely,

PE

Plasma gauge dials + illuminated lexan needles....

Cluster Upgrade: Plasma Gauge dial + Illuminated Lexan Needles

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86' 190E 2.3L