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#1
05-11-2011, 09:19 PM
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One thing we do on all reman calipers we install is to crack the bleeder screws BEFORE we put them on the car. For some reason, rebuilders use no packing materials in the oversize boxes and many times the bleeder screw is fractured.
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"I was a dirty bird, Carol's not grungey - she's *****in" John Milner....American Graffiti 
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#2
05-11-2011, 09:35 PM
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Quote:
most of mine come to me with the bleeders in a bag...
__________________
John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread "as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do! My drivers: 1987 190D 2.5Turbo 1987 560SL convertible 1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!!  1987 300TD 2005 Dodge Sprinter 2500 158"WB 1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere!
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#3
05-11-2011, 05:10 PM
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You guys are setting a great example of MB owners - please take the bickering to PM land and help the original poster understand what is fair.
$800 may be in line if the shop was quoting replacing the calipers, rotors, brake lines and pads & sensors. If NY has high labor rates. As with any shop when you take your car in they will tell you everything that should be replaced to bring the car up to like new. That doesn't mean you need to accept every recommendation. Ask the shop to explain what parts they are planning to replace and ask them why they are so expensive. Lots of shops get the parts from the local parts store & add 10% or 20% for transportation etc. That is OK. If it were my car - or my wife/daughters car I would make sure it was done right - but I wouldn't want them replacing a bunch of parts that were still servicable. Now - lets try to keep on topic in the future.
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#4
05-11-2011, 08:29 PM
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Quote:
As a customer, "fair" would be 2 hours labor and a 20% mark-up on parts. As a shop owner, "fair" appears to be 4 hours labor and a 100% mark-up on parts. Quote:
I guess it all depends on how you define "fair" and from who's prospective. As a "shade tree mechanic", using decent quality parts, I could do that job for $400 parts(retail) and 3-4 hrs labor.
__________________
Question Authority before it Questions you.
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#5
05-11-2011, 07:41 PM
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For the OP (Sadie):
Two miles on unsafe calipers is two too many, if the brakes don't work. 600 miles on a system that may need some maintenance but is otherwise safe might be okay as long as you're aware of the issues. If the mechanic didn't say "these are unsafe and I recommend you leave the car here" then you may be okay going to SC. Are there symptoms, or just a "your calipers are bad" recommendation from a new mechanic? Do you have to pump the brakes to stop? Does the pedal sink? Do the brakes feel mushy? Do they squeal? Is there brake fluid on the ground or on the calipers? Are the pads wet with fluid? Did you rear-end someone and discover they didn't work? (kidding) Diagnosing a need for new calipers without knowing the symptoms is tough. Normal reasons would be obvious leaks, excessive uneven pad wear that indicates a stuck caliper (compare inside/outside), stuff like that. Other symptoms like mushy pedal might mean old fluid with moisture or air in the lines; things like hard to brake or dragging and overheating brakes might be a master cylinder.
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#6
05-11-2011, 08:17 PM
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Quote:
this is not the forum for argumentative responses!
__________________
John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread "as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do! My drivers: 1987 190D 2.5Turbo 1987 560SL convertible 1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!! 1987 300TD 2005 Dodge Sprinter 2500 158"WB 1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere!
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