LOL!!!!!

Nope, it wil still performa a 'double-downshift' below 50 mph and no matter where I have adjusted it, the issue persists.

Still scratching my head on that one!!!!!

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Did you just pass my 740 at 200 kmh in a 300SD?????

1978 300SD 'Phil' - 1,315,853 Miles And Counting - 1, 317,885 as of 12/27/2012 - 1,333,000 as of 05/10/2013, 1,337,850 as of July 15, 2013, 1,339,000 as of August 13, 2013



100,000 miles since June 2005 Overhaul - Sold January 25th, 2014 After 1,344,246 Miles & 20 Years of Ownership

ckamila,

I have the same shutdown issue with my 80 SD and I believe the same cause. My question to you is, what's your plan for removing the vacuum pod for repair? As you noted, it's tight fit in there

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Joe

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
1980 300SD - 495k miles - 'The Ambassador'
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Former Family Members
95 C280
73 280SEL
90 300D
87 300SDL (X2)
86 560SEL
84 300D
80 300SD

im having problems on my 80sd getting temp wheel to go from heat to cool,at cool it gives heat only,sometimes at start up it will remain at cool and even give ac if compressor set on on.ive replaced foam hose,have heard servo park itself at shut down.no vac problems.whats nest calibrate temop wheel-how is this done,amplifier?

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95 e320,87 sdl,79 300sd

Refer back to the first few posts and start troubleshooting the system. Keep in mind that even if the foam hose is intact, you must verify air is flowing past the in-car temperature sensor...Robert

__________________
Did you just pass my 740 at 200 kmh in a 300SD?????

1978 300SD 'Phil' - 1,315,853 Miles And Counting - 1, 317,885 as of 12/27/2012 - 1,333,000 as of 05/10/2013, 1,337,850 as of July 15, 2013, 1,339,000 as of August 13, 2013



100,000 miles since June 2005 Overhaul - Sold January 25th, 2014 After 1,344,246 Miles & 20 Years of Ownership

ill see if it draws smoke from dash sensor ,if not not sure where to go from there.

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95 e320,87 sdl,79 300sd

Ether - Have you diagnosed which vacuum circuit is failing? Is this for a 123 or a 116?

My Defrost pod has 2 vacuum ports with a "T" connection to the center pod (see picture on post #2 at link below). I will attempt to use a device called a "pod popper" from George Murphy to split pod in 2 without removal. Another member (jbrasile) at W116.org has fixed his center pod before and recommends this method. Popper is only $10, diaphragm $6, so what do i have to loose? My neighbor (car guy) suggested maybe removing the center dash bolt and possibly the 2 end dash bolts for more wiggle room?

If i need to pull the dash to fix...I will leave it as is for now, I have the purple line capped off (both sides) just above the "T" feeding the DEF pod. Defrost works in default mode - no vacuum needed, engine shuts down fine and i don't need A/C here in Seattle - just wipers.

Have a look at this link...

1980 300SD - shutdown problem with CCU Set to Off/Lo/High

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1985 300D, 250k
1980 300SD, 180K

Chris,

I'm working on the same model you are an 80 SD. After reviewing the thread you linked I'm questioning some of my troubleshooting technique but I'm pretty sure one of the 2 pods in the center is the culprit. I will use that thread as a guide and go over it again.

Is removing the center vent as simple as just pulling it out? I've never done that on the 116 and I'm concerned it will break if I'm not careful.

I have a pod popper kit I bought several years ago but stuck it away and forgot I had it until recently stumbling across it.

__________________
Joe

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
1980 300SD - 495k miles - 'The Ambassador'
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Former Family Members
95 C280
73 280SEL
90 300D
87 300SDL (X2)
86 560SEL
84 300D
80 300SD

Ether - I just received my pod popper today, turning the hoop (wire) 90 degrees in hopes of accessing the little buggers.

I followed the steps laid out by Joe in the linked thread, though he worked on the center vent pod (pink one in picture) which is much easier. Center vent louvers pop out the front. Bezel and the rest come out through the hole left by removing the glove box and lower right-hand side kick panel. Not sure if anything is gained by removing the cluster as the left-hand defrost vent is in the way. I'll take pictures and probably post in new thread - we have sorta hijacked Doktor Bert's original posting.

Main thing to be careful of is the rubber boot that attaches vent (see page 2, 1st post, 2nd picture) from under dash to center vent bezel.

Problem with popper as i see it you need to hold pod while splitting open- easy if its out of the car, not so easy working blind with little to no room.

My second option is to remove the pods by slipping off the small metal retaining rings - see 2nd picture.

I plan to practice replacing the diaphragm on the fresh air recirculation pod before starting the task at hand. George Murphy sells the diaphragms for $6 each so i plan on replacing all while i am in there. Fastlane sells the whole pod (center pod) for around $24 each, while the "Footwell" pod goes for $42.

Anyone else out there walked this road before...suggestions, hints

Attached Thumbnails

   

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1985 300D, 250k
1980 300SD, 180K

following up on my heat only issue 80 sd,i ended up changing foam tube,still no change ,then put in a rebuilt amplifier from george murphy,it did the trick,now my system responds correctly to dial changes.one question i have is it bad to leave ac switch on all the time.i have ac working.

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95 e320,87 sdl,79 300sd

Ether - I went for the complete airbox rebuild...just finished rebuilding both airbox (evap and heater cores) and blower motor rehab with new diaphragms, 3 and 4-way connectors along with the soft rubber connector hose bits. Now i need to reinstall everthing then off to the a/c shop to gas her up.

ACC overhaul - Heater box / evaporator removal

chris

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1985 300D, 250k
1980 300SD, 180K

Well, I committed a classic mistake in troubleshooting and jumped to cause when I discovered an issue with the defrost vacuum pod. While that pod was indeed bad, it was not the cause of my overall vacuum troubles. It turned out that I had a bad vacuum pump. Vacuum was just fine right at the pump but would begin to tumble as I added circuits. I eventually located a good used pump (from a forum member) and once that was installed my vacuum woes disappeared. I surmise the original pump had a weak check valve that was fine under no load but would give up the ghost when enough vac circuits were added.

__________________
Joe

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
1980 300SD - 495k miles - 'The Ambassador'
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Former Family Members
95 C280
73 280SEL
90 300D
87 300SDL (X2)
86 560SEL
84 300D
80 300SD

Recycled for new members

Hello, I think that these instructions written in German can be useful to all those who have or have had problems with the dreaded Servo. They can be easily translated with GOOGLE TRANSLATE, and in my opinion they are very detailed and precise about the problems that arise with the Servo. The author made these instructions about 20 years ago and they are posted on his personal web page in the download area:

http://becker-maschinenbau.com/download/klimaautomatik.pdf

In my opinion it is an admirable work and deserves to be known, for that reason I have allowed myself to share this information in this forum.

Many thanks to Heiner Becker

Thanks for posting, though doesn't apply to my 1984 & 85 300D. I understand the 1980 auto-climate system came from an earlier Chrysler system, perhaps late 1950's since my 1965 Chrysler doesn't have it though maybe high-end models did have ATC. Mine is just a manual system, using a pneum-electric push-button switch. In my 300D's, I gave up on the servo-valve. In one, I installed an electric vac switch which controls a vac-water valve, as in later M-B. In the other, I installed the servo-valve from a W124 since good used ones seem more available. Also got rid of the silly aux water pump.

In general, ATC systems are silly. My 2002 Chrysler has a digital one, with dual front and separate rear controls. It works fine, but auto-control is not needed or very useful. Most people just set the temperature setpoint higher (or colder) than they want to get "fast heat" or "fast cold", then change the setpoint later. So, all a car really needs is a hotter-colder knob, like the simple analog manual system in 1996 Plymouth. Don't need a temperature setpoint with a feedback loop.

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1984 & 1985 CA 300D's
1964 & 65 Mopar's - Valiant, Dart, Newport
1996 & 2002 Chrysler minivans