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#1
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1985 300d brake caliper replacement
I have a 1985 diesel (300d) with 220k on it. I recently took it to a new mechanic that works on classic cars here in Brooklyn, New York where I live. He quoted me $950 to replace both front calipers-does that sound like a reasonable quote for parts and labor on this job? I saw the calipers online for about 150/each-does that sound right?
Thanks! Sadie |
#2
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You should be able to get rebuilt front calipers for $75 each. You can also get new Mintex or Pagid pads from $30-$42. I don't even want to tell you what I think about his labor charge.
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#3
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Sounds high.
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Jim |
#4
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I'd get a parts and labor quote. I won't pay someone $75 to $85 an hour labor. That's just me.
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#5
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brakes
Sadie, that job is easy enough if you sit down and study it, you can do it yourself and save about $700- $800. I did mine. take your time ask a ton of questions here and save your money! It is worth the effort spent to learn how your car works. And is even better saving a TON of money!
Also you can click on the parts tabs above and look up parts for your car. You will need MAYBE calipers (sounds like 2) and 2 sets of brake pads and also the 2 sets of brake sensors. If it were me, I would replace all the brake hoses too (4) about $10 each. By looking up the parts here you can get an idea of how much labor he is charging you. You can also call the local parts store in your town and get prices for pads, hoses and calipers and sensors. Then you can decide if you want to go to this mechanic. I would think a shop should charge about 2-3 hours labor, not sure but that is a guess on labor.
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#6
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Quote:
While your car is 25 years old, there's nothing magic about the brakes that requires special expertise. You get re-manufactured calipers for $100-150 (look at the buy parts link) depending on the core charge, the type of caliper (don't mix Bendix and ATE parts, get 2 of the same), maybe shipping. Brakes are straightforward as a DIY if you have the space and the confidence. I'll guess in Brooklyn space might be an issue, and I'll stereotype that maybe you're not considering a DIY. If in doubt, ask the mechanic for a written estimate and itemize here. You'll probably get some good advice and maybe some crazy advice. Like, yeah, at least two new hoses for the front; maybe 4 if the rear is bad or old; new fluid (a few pints, for a good bleed), probably new pads on the front, inspect the hard lines for rust since you're in NY... |
#7
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way high and a good job to do to learn, pretty straight forward, that said any capable mechanic should be able to do without issue so you can avoid the 'specialist"
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Ron 2015 Porsche Cayman - Elizabeth 2011 Porsche Cayman - Bond,James Bond Sadly MERCEDESLESS - ALways LOOKING ! 99 E320 THE Queen Mary - SOLD 62 220b - Dolly - Finally my Finny! Sadly SOLD 72 450SL, Pearl-SOLD ![]() 16 F350 6.7 Diesel -THOR 19 BMW X5 - Heaven on Wheels 14 38HP John Deere 3038E Tractor -Mean Green 84 300SD, Benjamin -SOLD 71 220 - W115-Libby ( my first love) -SOLD 73 280 - W114 "Organspende" Rest in Peace 81 380 SL - Rest in Peace |
#8
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It shouldn't cost any more than $300 - take the car to midas. The calipers are available - it may take a day or two tops to get them in but all the parts for this car are available from the local parts store which is where most shops get the parts.
It sounds like the guy is trying to get the parts from the dealer or direct mail order from Germany or something. Figure on average the labor cost will equal the parts cost. $150 in parts + $150 in labor. |
#9
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Parts prices are somewhat controllable, labor on the other hand is different everywhere. Here in northern California hourly rates are approx $110.00.
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81 300CD (sold) 1972 280 SEL 4.5 (sold) 1966 250 S 4 spd (sold) 1974 450 SL (sold) 86 BMW 325ES (sold), 1973 280C (sold) 1988 300 SE. |
#10
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Hi, thanks to everyone for the helpful advice. If I had the space I would try a DIY, but I don't here in NY. I'm actually planning to drive the car to SC to see family, where I would have space, but I'm not sure it would be safe to drive that far (about 600 miles) before replacing the calipers--any final thoughts on that?
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#11
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What is it doing that is not working correctly?
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Jim |
#12
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Inside the caliper is a piston, a round cylinder that pushes on the brake pad when the brake is applied. Usually the pads do not move very much at all when the brake is pushed. IF the pistons are frozen, (rusted) then they CAN be rebuilt if someone wants to take the time to do it.
Most here replace the calipers if they are locked up (rusted). You can test to see if they are locked up by jacking up ONE side of the car and trying to spin the wheel. If the wheel does not spin freely, then more than likely the caliper COULD be rusted, or you COULD also have bad hoses. My opinion is....get rebuilt calipers and new pads and hoses and sensors, have them flush out ALL the old brake fluid, and be done with it! Also have them check the rotors, if they are too thin, they should be replaced. Check the local mechanic shops and get the mechanic to show you what is wrong and explain it to you. Get your idea about how much each part is, then you can decide what to do. I would not chance it if I was going to take a long trip..but your mechanic can take the wheels off and get a better idea and SHOW you what is going on. I took my $400 car to a shop to get an idea what was wrong w/ it, and they were going to try to charge me $3000 to FIX EVERYTHING. I did not ask to have everything fixed, just what was the problem? Ended up costing about $300 to fix what was broken PARTS AND LABOR. After that repair, I fixed my own brakes! Cost: brake pads, hoses, and new brake fluid So I feel you..I was in the same boat...dont let them buffalo you. Take your dad or boyfriend with you to the next shop. I bet the bill will be significanly lower
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#13
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Quote:
Did anyone ever hear what the brakes are actually doing (or not doing) that makes him think you need new calipers? I'm setting up a shop to service imports in the Soperton, Ga (one mile off of exit 71 and I-16) area and am going to be real selective (and limited) who I set up as a customer base.
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Jim |
#14
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Quote:
We always save the old parts for "show and tell", and every car gets one or two test drives depending on what it was here for. As for the op, the price sounds a little high. I suspect that flex hoses,rotors and pads are being done at the same time and some regions have pretty high labor rates as well. The last youngtimer we worked on('81 240D) needed all 20 of the rotor to hub bolts because someone had buggered them all up with an impact. It takes longer, but we use thee lug nuts and clamp the hub to a vise and use a torque wrench. The same car had egg shaped outer wheel bearings because they had been dropped on the floor at some point. That's why we simply don't just throw calipers on and bleed the brakes like one poster suggested should take .5 hours per side. The liability is too great, and we don't do hack repairs by replacing calipers only. We inspect the entire brake system and make up an estimate based on what it takes to bring the entire brake system up to par. Don't get me started on the phenolic caliper pistons used on domestics, I won't replace pads without doing calipers on those.
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"I was a dirty bird, Carol's not grungey - she's *****in" John Milner....American Graffiti |
#15
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Quote:
he might have 4 seized pistons, and blown flex lines, and gouged rotors, and etc etc.
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John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread "as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do! My drivers: 1987 190D 2.5Turbo 1987 560SL convertible 1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!! ![]() 1987 300TD 2005 Dodge Sprinter 2500 158"WB 1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere! |
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