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  #1  
Old 06-19-2010, 06:40 AM
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1987 TDT keeps breaking sway bar brackets

I will try again, Hi, I have a 1987 300TDT W124.193 that is about driving me nuts.
I cannot seem to keep sway bar brackets on the thing.
I have had the brackets break....well let me see, five times by now.
I have replaced them with "new" updated brackets, still break.
I have tried installing jacked up with wheels off the ground and sitting on the ground with weight on the car.
They are not to tight as the bar will spin inside the rubber bushings which are also new.
I have even put new coils in the car and still today the bracket breaks again.
I cannot figure it out, their is no reason for this I can see.
Anyone ever hear of this before?

Last edited by whunter; 07-12-2010 at 01:40 AM. Reason: completed car data
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  #2  
Old 06-19-2010, 08:15 AM
DeliveryValve's Avatar
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Can you post a picture of the broken bracket(s)?




.
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  #3  
Old 06-19-2010, 08:25 AM
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I suppose, but they break where the c clamp bolts to the bracket over the sway bar. It is almost like they are being torn apart from downward pressure
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  #4  
Old 06-19-2010, 10:31 AM
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Is this a continuation of this problem?

Sway Bar Troubles

Charlie
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there were three HP ratings on the OM616...

1) Not much power
2) Even less power
3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto

Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast.

80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff

We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works
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  #5  
Old 06-20-2010, 07:35 AM
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Yes it is, That was before I installed new "updated" brackets. So now I am even more puzzled as I thought that was it.
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  #6  
Old 06-20-2010, 08:56 AM
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One of The brackets on my TD pulled off at one of the bolt holes. Being a cheapskate I just used the mig to repair it by welding a washer on to the C clamp. It has been bounced over some very rough tracks since then & not broken again.
Is it the side that is on the road edge side (right hand for you)?
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1967 230-6 auto parts car. rust bucket.
1980 300D now parts car 800k miles
1984 300D 500k miles
1987 250td 160k miles English import
2001 jeep turbo diesel 130k miles
1998 jeep tdi ~ followed me home. Needs a turbo.
1968 Ford F750 truck. 6-354 diesel conversion.
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  #7  
Old 06-20-2010, 01:34 PM
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My passenger side bracket broke about six months ago. We had an extremely short steep driveway at the time. I used to get going fast enough to coast up it, so I just assumed that was why it broke. There was a downhill slope before the driveway so when the car first started up, it twisted the front end. I guess I'll take a look at the new one and see how it is holding up. We have a nice flat driveway now so I suspect they are both fine.

The last time I was in Nova Scotia it was flat. Do you have an unusually steep driveway or live on a dirt road with huge pot holes?

Have you replaced the rubber bushings on the sway bar?
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  #8  
Old 06-22-2010, 07:21 AM
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I live in the Valley, nice and flat. Good driveway. I have replaced the bushings and that is actually when it all started. I have had both sides break at different times. This time it was the passenger. Most times it is the passenger side but I believe the drivers has broke once out of the four or five times. Before I replaced the brackets I did weld them up and re-enforced them with a piece of steel and it still broke.
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  #9  
Old 06-22-2010, 11:13 AM
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Is there anyway the you could double bracket them? IE put one on top and bolt them together? or well they not sit together nice and tight?

Just a thought.

Charlie
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there were three HP ratings on the OM616...

1) Not much power
2) Even less power
3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto

Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast.

80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff

We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works
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  #10  
Old 06-22-2010, 08:26 PM
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Probably not work as they are not meant to fit together. But there must be a reason they break.
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  #11  
Old 06-22-2010, 08:58 PM
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Can you take some pictures of your front end from underneath? I'm wondering if something is different with your car. I still have my belly pans off from a recent transmission fluid change. I'll take a look under mine when I put the pans back on.
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1987 300TD 309, xxx 2.8.2014 10,000 mile OCI


Be careful of the toes you step on today, as they may be connected to the ass you have to kiss tomorrow. anonymous

“Be who you are and say what you feel, because those who mind don’t matter, and those who matter won’t mind.” Dr. Seuss
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  #12  
Old 06-22-2010, 11:59 PM
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Have you tried putting a bit of grease on the bar before installing the bush ? the rubber may be grabbing on the bar.
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Grumpy Old Diesel Owners Club group

I no longer question authority, I annoy authority. More effect, less effort....

1967 230-6 auto parts car. rust bucket.
1980 300D now parts car 800k miles
1984 300D 500k miles
1987 250td 160k miles English import
2001 jeep turbo diesel 130k miles
1998 jeep tdi ~ followed me home. Needs a turbo.
1968 Ford F750 truck. 6-354 diesel conversion.
Other toys ~J.D.,Cat & GM ~ mainly earth moving
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  #13  
Old 06-23-2010, 12:49 AM
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could the orientation of the sway bar be an issue? like left-to-right mounting? i have not really looked at my sway bar but i figure if the swaybar isn't "flat" it may be an issue. like having excess pressure/tension on the brackets... is the front "stance" normal?
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  #14  
Old 06-23-2010, 01:29 AM
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i stumbled upon your thread regarding the same issue... i'm pretty sure mounting the sway bar wheels up and whatever is a non issue... as long as both wheels are level... people saying otherwise do not understand what the bar actually does. every time both wheels are level there is absolutely no torsion/ tension on the bar and anywhere else. once the wheels aren't level with each other that's the only time the sway bar experiences any tension/torsion. the brackets are just there to "guide" the swaybar... so it doesn't fall off or veer away when torsion is applied.
if there is a difference when the bar is upside-down or right side-up i'm betting my money that the sway bar is mounted upside down. causing unnecessary downward tension on the brackets with every bounce.
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85 190E 2.3(SOLD)
86 230E (-->300D) sold
87 300D (-->300TD) sold
68 250S w/ a 615 and manual tranny (RIP)
87 300TD (SOLD)
95 S280 "The KRAKEN" (Turbo 2.9 602 transplant) traded
86 190E 2.3... current project
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  #15  
Old 06-23-2010, 01:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by locry View Post
i stumbled upon your thread regarding the same issue... i'm pretty sure mounting the sway bar wheels up and whatever is a non issue... as long as both wheels are level... people saying otherwise do not understand what the bar actually does. every time both wheels are level there is absolutely no torsion/ tension on the bar and anywhere else. once the wheels aren't level with each other that's the only time the sway bar experiences any tension/torsion. the brackets are just there to "guide" the swaybar... so it doesn't fall off or veer away when torsion is applied.
if there is a difference when the bar is upside-down or right side-up i'm betting my money that the sway bar is mounted upside down. causing unnecessary downward tension on the brackets with every bounce.
That sounds like a reasonable theory, since it started right after he replaced the bushings.
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Be careful of the toes you step on today, as they may be connected to the ass you have to kiss tomorrow. anonymous

“Be who you are and say what you feel, because those who mind don’t matter, and those who matter won’t mind.” Dr. Seuss
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