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#1
06-05-2011, 11:20 AM
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I used a length of vacuum tubing and re-shrouded the wires on mine. The insulation on the individual wires was okay, but the outer tube/shroud was dry and crumbly. You may have an electrical hobby-shop project on your hands. 
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#2
06-05-2011, 03:16 PM
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 OK, so I didn't have to start the car at all - I realized that the brake sensor is activated in the last accessory position of the ign switch. In the 240D, the yellow light comes on before ignition. In this car the Alt light used to come on prefire, then stay on after ignition until I hit the throttle the first time. Can't remember the last time I saw the yellow brake light. Now neither light comes on. So I tested the voltage across the sensor wire leads and with ign off, it is 0, with ign in last position it is ~12 (GP relay was active in that position too, so it droppped duing that). Then I tested current from the hot lead of the brake wire plug on the PS (melted one) to the neg. terminal of the battery. No continuity down to 200k range, and there it read ~163 ohm Moved to the DS for comparison: No continuity down to the 200 (smallest) scale, but there it pegged and the meter screamed at me. Back up, and it shows no continuity at larger scale??? Not sure how to interpret this.
__________________
 Current Mercedes 1979 maple yellow 240D 4-speed Gone and fondly remembered: 1980 orient red 240D 4-speed Gone and NOT fondly remembered: 1982 Chna Blue 300TD Other car in the stable: 2013 VW Jetta Sportwagen TDI / 6-speed MT
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#3
06-05-2011, 07:37 PM
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Can you tell what color wire you're measuring: brown or brown/red? If brown, then you should have very low ohms from that pin to ground. If brown/red it could give some funky readings since the meter may get confused by the added current from the car in addition to what it's providing. Does your parking brake light work? What about the low fuel light? These lights share a connection on the cluster wiring trace that goes back to the alternator. It's possible a short in the cluster or at the brakes may be contributing to killing the regulators in the alternators. Can you set your meter to Amps (current) and then connect from the brown/red wire on the "car" side of the sensor to ground and measure what happens with the ignition on? You should see a low current draw that equates to the light bulb in the dash and see the bulb glow. You're basically replicating the pad wear sensor closing. Assuming something like a 1.2 Watt bulb, the current ought to be 0.1 Amp (P= IV, 1.2 W = 0.1 A * 12 V)
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#4
06-05-2011, 08:28 PM
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"Burned Ends"
Zeke,
I don't believe (You) (or anyone else reading this) has understood the significance of your sentence: "The wires coming to the 3 port junction just behind the expansion coolant tank all look good - I had previously cut out the burned ends and spliced new terminals on." HOW DID THE ENDS GET BURNED? (Just cutting off the SCORCHED ends of the cable does not "FIX" the CAUSE) Did this chassis suffer a FIRE? [It MAY in the Near Future,with the symptoms you describe] Find the CAUSE of the Power Transmission Cables BURNING and then you can confidently fix the problem. Unsolicited Rant: If I've got Alternators "Going South" (I don't know what else to call it,'Cause you can't tell us How,or What FAILED in the Generation System.) AND I'm seeing Burned Power Transmission Cables... I'm not risking Myself or the Chassis by operating the Vehicle. UNTIL the Anomaly is COMPLETELY diagnosed and rectified!
__________________
'84 300SD sold 124.128
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