John is correct, my conversion is incorrect. I was basing my initial size guesses off a non-measuring external caliper and I initially thought 25mm and 1" The 1" is too loose. Maybe a 15/16" will fit on it but I'm guessing that will be too tight.
I checked the HF angle wrenches. They will just slide on to the nut in the existing space but in OE condition, depending on where the flats of your nuts land, I don't think it will work to hold the fitting. Grinding the wrench a little thinner may allow it to work. The HF angled standard metric box end wrenches are long enough that the top of the wrench hits the 'ear' that is on the oil filter cover. Maybe with the cover removed it would stand straight enough to slide fully on to the nut.
So the 24mm skinny stubby is the best fit, but whether a person can hold that fitting with a stubby wrench while loosening the compression nut is another issue altogether. I'll keep you posted.

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1977 300d 70k--sold 08
1985 300TD 185k+
1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03
1985 409d 65k--sold 06
1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car
1979 300SD 122k--sold 2/11
1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper
1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4
1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13

Got the outer hose on the oil filter housing figured out. Standard 1 1/16" open end on the compression nut and 24mm HF short stubby wrench from their kit of short open end service wrenches #93668. Put the 24mm on the fitting 'nut' and put a 2x4 between that wrench and the oil filter housing. Then use the 1 1/16" open end to loosen the compression nut. Won't be able to work on the inner hose nuts until the outer hose is removed. New hoses haven't arrived yet.

http://www.harborfreight.com/15-piece-metric-service-wrench-set-93668.html

__________________
1977 300d 70k--sold 08
1985 300TD 185k+
1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03
1985 409d 65k--sold 06
1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car
1979 300SD 122k--sold 2/11
1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper
1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4
1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13

Did the job today. 6 hrs including time for breakfast and lunch and chats with the neighbor. Also a lot of breaks for shade and iced tea. Not too bad. Looked long and hard at the lines once I had them disconnected and decided unbolting the one bottom bolt on the motor mount, removing the engine shock and jacking up the engine was the best course of action. Took about half an hour or so to do that. Once that was done, the lines came out/in pretty easily. Slid the rubber ends under the PS pump and on top of the AC compressor then dropped the metal portion down inside the PS hoses. (had to disconnect the fuel line to get one out) and then slid them under the arm of the motor mount and above the rubber mount. Loosened the inner hose nut at the filter with the short stubby wrench. It came loose easily. I was working in the street and my tools are in the basement so lots of walking back and forth. With the tools handy in a garage I would think it would be easy to do it in 3 hrs. It is a messy job. Oil everywhere. I'll keep the old lines and have new rubbers put on them at a hydraulic hose shop and keep them to use when the ones on my TD wear out.

Used anti-seize on the cooler nuts.

__________________
1977 300d 70k--sold 08
1985 300TD 185k+
1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03
1985 409d 65k--sold 06
1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car
1979 300SD 122k--sold 2/11
1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper
1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4
1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13

Doing it without loosening the motor mount will drive you to suicide.

I had to grind down the head...Bike spanner == brilliant if it holds. Just dont overtighten the lines like everyone does

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http://superturbodiesel.com/images/sig.04.10.jpg
1995 E420 Schwarz
1995 E300 Weiss
#1987 300D Sturmmachine
#1991 300D Nearly Perfect
#1994 E320 Cabriolet
#1995 E320 Touring
#1985 300D Sedan
OBK #42