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#1
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injection pump sluggish?
I know this is a horse that has been beat to death, so can anyone direct me to the thread discussing an injection pump only popping on some of the outlets. I read the post about cleaning with lacquer thinner and thinking of trying that. Car has been sitting for 12 years. Drained tank, replaced screen and both filters as instructed on this site. Bleed air from system. When I pulled of lines from pump to injector I cam see that 4 and 5 have a nice "spit" while 1, 2, and 3 only just make it to the top of the nozzle and run over. 85 300d so if I am not mistaken there should be no o-rings or crush washers to replace.
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#2
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You should make sure that there is fuel pressure in the base of the injection pump. Three elements would not go bad together usually. Low or no fuel pressure the first three elements may be starving for fuel.
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#3
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car ran fine when parked, bad tranny put its driving days to an end, I have bypassed tank and pulling fuel from a bottle at the first fuel filter so fuel starvation from the lines is ruled out. How would one check pressure in the pump.
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#4
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FYI
Diesel Injection:
Diesel Injection: |
#5
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The Fuel Starvation Issue
referred to is the subject of one of Two things:
1.Lift Pump (On the Driver's Side of the I.P.) [Valves or Seals] 2.Fuel Return Release Valve [Passenger Side of the I.P.] (It's a "Banjo Bolt" ,Simple Valve with a Spring operating a Ball Bearing) Check the "Pump Pressure" in Two places: Insert Pressure Gauge in the line between the "Lift Pump" and the Fuel Filter. ['Tells you if the Lift Pump is Weak or Bad] Insert Pressure Gauge In the line between the " Fuel Return Valve" and the Fuel Return Line. ['Tells you if the "Pressure Relief Valve" is "Tango Uniform"] BAD Lift Pump Starvation is self explanatory BAD Relief Valve ALLOWS IMPROPER [LOW] Pressurization of the I.P.
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'84 300SD sold 124.128 Last edited by compress ignite; 06-16-2011 at 08:28 PM. |
#6
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Welcome to the forum Choover !!
As you can see we try to be a friendly helpful group. I think CI has nailed it with regard to what you need to look at. Once you get the car going well enough to drive, it sounds like it needs a tank of biodiesel to clean out any residual rubbish. Diesel purge may help as well. Expect blocked filters if you run bio though. A good Italian tune would help as well. ~ a long up hill run with the throttle wide open.
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Grumpy Old Diesel Owners Club group I no longer question authority, I annoy authority. More effect, less effort.... 1967 230-6 auto parts car. rust bucket. 1980 300D now parts car 800k miles 1984 300D 500k miles 1987 250td 160k miles English import 2001 jeep turbo diesel 130k miles 1998 jeep tdi ~ followed me home. Needs a turbo. 1968 Ford F750 truck. 6-354 diesel conversion. Other toys ~J.D.,Cat & GM ~ mainly earth moving |
#7
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Thanks for all your help. I will let you know how it goes.
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#8
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Check all the above first. However in rare cases the element can get stuck usually all the way up so that the cam is not reaching it. Just fixed a thermo king unit with that problem.
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1977 240D turbo |
#9
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Stuck elements seem to have been the problem. Tried the straw trick of watching the elements rise and fall and indeed the first three were not moving. Pumped some diesel purge into it and let it set for a day. One started moving so I pumped in some lacquer thinner and let it set for half an hour. What cam out looked like a sinus infection gone wrong. Pump is spitting now. Hooked up all the lines and am going to try to start today. Don't worry, the tank came out for a good cleaning before I start running fuel through the system. I understand that these pumps are not diy, but why are there no pictures or diagrams of the inside to be found anywhere on the net.
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#10
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look over at superturbodiesel there is a few pictures of the end with the cover off labeling the adjustments. Other then that I do not of any other inside pictures. I answered another fellow and put the link in. Check in the performance section of this forum. Think the post started with educatioin please.
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1977 240D turbo |
#11
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Quote:
That means that anything below that area cannot be messed with with out disturbing the Fuel Setting. If the Fuel Setting is disturbed the whole Fuel Injection Pump is supposed to go on a Calibration Stand to have the setting/s restored. If you have the above described Fuel Injection Pump there is one Crush Washer (see the Drip Timing Instructions for more details as during Drip Timing the Crush Washer is supposed to be changed) in Each Element that seals the Delivery Valve Holder. Since a regular Mechanic is not supposed to mess inside no one provides pics of the inside of the Fuel Injection Pump. (As stated by the other Member you will find pics of some of the pumps on the superturbodiesel site.) In the below pic I drew a lines to the do-not-touch Nuts as were visable in the pic.
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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel |
#12
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Here is a pic of the innards of the same model MW Fuel Injection pump but in this case a 6cyl:
In the bottom left are the Elements (Plunger & Barrels) in the Muffin Tray. The Plunger end is facing the Viewer.
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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel |
#13
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I knew not to jump in and start taking things apart but just really wanted to know exactly what I was dealing with. My buddy is a manager at a national diesel repair service and told me if I did get it apart and mess it up he could get it fixed with little to no cost. I did not want to have to take him up on that offer. Ayway, long story short, the car started today and I pulled it out of its spot in the back woods. Looks like things were just gummed up. Going to run another diesel purge through it, then comes fun with the transmission.
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#14
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Quote:
If you Buddy's company does not do the repairs perhaps one of the Shops he knows about would let you see how they repair a Fuel Injection Pump.
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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel |
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