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  #1  
Old 06-22-2011, 08:43 PM
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No key, steering locked, what now?

I've found an '81 300SD for parts but the owner can't find the key and the ignition was changed at some point. So, I can't get a new key made. How can I unlock the steering column so that I can load it onto a trailer for the ride home?

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  #2  
Old 06-22-2011, 08:46 PM
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Disconnect the steering linkage so you can turn the tires the way you want to get it on the trailer.
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  #3  
Old 06-22-2011, 08:47 PM
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disconnect the steering coupling at the box. Not gonna be fun turning the wheels manually.

Can you start the motor? Power steering would make turning the wheels easier.
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  #4  
Old 06-22-2011, 09:16 PM
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For $50.00 at our dealer you can get a new key if you have title or registration in hand that matches the name and face on your drivers license. That takes to or three days, and might not solve the problem if the switch has ever been changed. You can even start the engine if it will start without glow plugs by jumping that little junction box down at the bottom of the passenger side front fender. Open that little box, there are three screw terminals in it, jump two of them with a paper clip and it will crank if it has a hot battery. If it is really good, it will start and rum.
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  #5  
Old 06-22-2011, 10:02 PM
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There are instructions on here about how to drill out the pin which holds the whole ignition switch assembly in the column. Pull the kick panel, pull out the instrument cluster, remove two bolts to drop the steering column a few inches, drill out the pin--it's soft metal, unbolt the u-bolt holding the assembly in and then pull the whole ignition switch assembly out. Probably take about an hour to do it the first time.
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  #6  
Old 06-23-2011, 01:12 AM
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Pretty easy to disconnect the steering at the steering-wheel side of the steering box. Jack the front of the car up in the middle - front crossmember - turn the wheels the way you want them, drop the car down, push, repeat until lined up. Or just set the wheels "straight" and drag the front end where you want it with the floor jack. Make sure the jack doesn't slip off the crossmember and go bang into something important. Like your oil pan.

Jay.
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  #7  
Old 06-23-2011, 11:18 AM
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Mercedes dealers will order your key for 20.00, cut to the VIN of the car. You have to show them the title.
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  #8  
Old 06-23-2011, 11:23 AM
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http://www.dieselgiant.com/repairignitionlock.htm
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  #9  
Old 06-23-2011, 01:18 PM
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http://benzbeat.blogspot.com/2011/06/w126-ignition-tumbler-not-something-to.html

If you can't get a key this is probably what you'll have to do (scroll to step 5). The dieselgiant writeup is great but somehow they were able to still get the tumbler out with the typical method, whereas I (and I would guess most people in that predicament) were not.
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  #10  
Old 06-23-2011, 01:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tbomachines View Post
http://benzbeat.blogspot.com/2011/06/w126-ignition-tumbler-not-something-to.html

If you can't get a key this is probably what you'll have to do (scroll to step 5). The dieselgiant writeup is great but somehow they were able to still get the tumbler out with the typical method, whereas I (and I would guess most people in that predicament) were not.
That write up describes destroying the pin with a dremel tool, which is quite difficult. It is very simple to drill the pin out with a 1/4" bit and a standard drill. The drill bit slides easily into the small space whereas getting a dremel in there would be a nightmare. The pin is not hardened, it is soft metal and will be gone in 30 seconds with a drill.
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1977 300d 70k--sold 08
1985 300TD 185k+
1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03
1985 409d 65k--sold 06
1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car
1979 300SD 122k--sold 2/11
1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper
1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4
1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13
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  #11  
Old 06-23-2011, 02:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kerry View Post
That write up describes destroying the pin with a dremel tool, which is quite difficult. It is very simple to drill the pin out with a 1/4" bit and a standard drill. The drill bit slides easily into the small space whereas getting a dremel in there would be a nightmare. The pin is not hardened, it is soft metal and will be gone in 30 seconds with a drill.
I don't see how a dremel is any harder than a drill. The tungsten carbide bit I used took only a careful minute or two and is the same shape and size as a drill bit - like the one pictured here, except the tip was rounded. I would think its more forgiving than a drill since it allows for lateral grinding as well--furthermore a dremel is usually smaller than a drill, and you can go wedge it in there since only the bit rotates, where a drill you have the chucking collar rotating as well. It is just a preference really, the important part is getting the pin down enough to rotate the assembly within the housing. I did not find it difficult, the hard part was getting a clear line of sight to the pin and flexing the dash/collar plastic without damage. I had to wedge in a socket to keep a small open space.

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  #12  
Old 06-23-2011, 02:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kerry View Post
There are instructions on here about how to drill out the pin which holds the whole ignition switch assembly in the column. Pull the kick panel, pull out the instrument cluster, remove two bolts to drop the steering column a few inches, drill out the pin--it's soft metal, unbolt the u-bolt holding the assembly in and then pull the whole ignition switch assembly out. Probably take about an hour to do it the first time.

45 minutes the first time, since I had the right tools and a drill which is very compact
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  #13  
Old 06-23-2011, 02:17 PM
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The blog says that it's easier said than done since there is no room to work. A drill bit is longer so it's easy to slide the bit into the narrow space with the drill motor farther away from the dash.
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1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car
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1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4
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  #14  
Old 06-23-2011, 02:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kerry View Post
The blog says that it's easier said than done since there is no room to work. A drill bit is longer so it's easy to slide the bit into the narrow space with the drill motor farther away from the dash.
This is true - but I'd be concerned about the drill bit catching on the surrounding material since its so tight. I guess if you're careful its not a problem either way. I'm too clumsy to trust myself with that , the dremel allowed me to "rest" the tool on the dash while I worked it. Come to think of it, the snake adapter (I don't know what its called, sort of like a flexible drive thing made from a long chain of U joints) would be perfect since its as compact as a drill bit but you can maneuver it without the outer housing spinning.

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  #15  
Old 06-24-2011, 11:50 AM
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Thanks, guys. I've been driving a Ford diesel F-250 for a decade but am still new to Mercedes.

By the way, I run my entire company on renewable energy. Two Ford diesel trucks, a 300SD, assorted diesel generators and an air compressor... all on cooking oil. I also use a little solar.

I'm a believer in maintaining and driving cars forever and the 300SD. This forum has been a great learning tool as I get up to speed on all things Mercedes.

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