I installed new rotors and pads and also used a special lquid that is supposed to reduce squealing on disc brakes however they still squeal when I come to a stop. Im getting tired of people staring at me all the time. I removed the braes once and cleaned everything and applied the red material on the back of the pads and it did SQUAT! Any suggestions or will it go away after a 1000 mils of driving?

Slotted, cross-drilled rotors might help.

A Break-in period has to be expected especially with ceramic. Try some heavy, fast stopping with your trunk full of heavy stuff, or mother-in-law in the back seat. (or trunk)

Which brands did you use? Pad type?

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Perhaps the rotors were not cleaned sufficiently upon the first install, and got anti-corrosion material on the pads.

If that's the case, you can place a piece of sandpaper on a flat surface and sand off the top layer of abrasive material off of each pad to clean it off.

Start Reading (Not Limited to just this Article)

http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp_bedintheory.shtml

Errrrr:
If you've got Akebono Pads with the correct Rotors and Noise , You're not from
this Galaxy.

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'84 300SD sold
124.128

On a brake dynamometer, the bedding procedure is 200 stops, 40-0 mph, 10 ft/sec/sec deceleration, at 200 deg.F pad temp.
On an "official" vehicle stopping distance test, bedding is done same as above, except instead of 200F pad temp, the stops are done every 1 mile.
The above is not practical for normal life. Instead, do 30 stops, 30mph, "medium braking" every 30-40 secs. or so. The idea is to get a uniform friction film (from the pad material) onto the rotor.

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1982 300D Turbo 3.0L 275K- sold
1992 300D Turbo 2.5L 300K
1997 Miata 115K
2004 Audi A4 Quattro 120K

+1 for "did you bed-in your brakes". You can't just install 'em and then start driving around like normal.

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RIP:
2011 E350 BlueTEC, Schwartz 81k (totaled by uninsured drunk driver)
1964 Unimog 404.1 (wrongfully towed by the city)
1994 E320, Brilliantsilber 208k (transmission shuffled off after sudden catastrophic fluid loss)
1982 300D, Silberblau under a blue repaint 256k (sold for parts)
1995 E320 Polarweiss, 131k (sold for parts)
1995 E300D Polarweiss, 287k (totaled by drunk driver)

I have three W210 Diesels and one W124 Diesel .... and used to have squeeking problems all the time until I decided to quit messing around with non-OEM parts and use the good stuff. The most important ingrediant is the MBZ pad paste applied to the rear of the pads ... the aftermarket anti-squeal stuff just doesn't cut it. The MBZ stuff comes in a plastic jar and is a silvery-gray color. The stuff is rather expensive .... $40 or so, but it works like nothing else. One jar has lasted me more than 10 brake jobs so far (I even use it on my Jeeps) and there still is some left in the jar. I suggest using Textar or ATE pads, never resurface the rotors just get new ATE rotors when they are worn, and use the MBZ paste. The brake systems as designed by MBZ are superb .... so if you just use the OEM parts your car will stop great and you won't hear any squeals. Good Luck.

I do a series of 60-10-60 stops to bed mine. My vehicle's slow enough that the acceleration back to 60 gives plenty of time for the rotors to cool. I think last time I installed new rotors I did two sets of 10. There was a nice shiny film on the rotors at the end and my brakes were plenty grippy, with good modulation and no judder.

MBZ's recommendation is to brake gently for a couple hundred miles after installing new pads/rotors, but there's no way to guarantee that in road driving, and a hard stop on un-bedded brakes is a good way to get the uneven friction film deposition and pad-printing that is the real cause of almost all "warped rotors".

Bed your brakes.

__________________
RIP:
2011 E350 BlueTEC, Schwartz 81k (totaled by uninsured drunk driver)
1964 Unimog 404.1 (wrongfully towed by the city)
1994 E320, Brilliantsilber 208k (transmission shuffled off after sudden catastrophic fluid loss)
1982 300D, Silberblau under a blue repaint 256k (sold for parts)
1995 E320 Polarweiss, 131k (sold for parts)
1995 E300D Polarweiss, 287k (totaled by drunk driver)