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  #1  
Old 08-27-2011, 09:07 AM
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Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Austin, TX
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Zeke,

I've got a a PS fender in great shape. The piece under the headlight is attached. If you want to drive up to Austin to get it, I'll sell it to you. PM for details.

-Andrew
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  #2  
Old 08-27-2011, 10:14 AM
zeke's Avatar
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Location: The Alamo City, TEXAS
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I am still confused about where to apply the heat.....along the top of the fender, just outside where the closed hood is, along the seam just inside the engine bay, or underneath inside the wheel well? If under neath, it seems like I am going to make a mess of that undercoating and silicone wont be a very attractive or effective replacement.

Are there any pictures of this unglueing process on the web that anyone knows of?
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Current Mercedes
1979 maple yellow 240D 4-speed


Gone and fondly remembered:
1980 orient red 240D 4-speed

Gone and NOT fondly remembered:
1982 Chna Blue 300TD

Other car in the stable:
2013 VW Jetta Sportwagen TDI / 6-speed MT
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  #3  
Old 08-28-2011, 02:45 AM
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In post#8 I mentioned to use Acitone to soften the sealer or what ever it is.

I suppose heat will work with the heat gun set on high. then use something to slice through the stuff enough so the fender will release. might have to use a razor blade knife also.

the sealer is not on the top side where the hood lines up with the fender. see the row of bolts that holds the fender on when the hood is up? OK, now get on your hands and knees, and look up along that area, but above the R/F wheel, along the back side where the line of bolt are. there is where it is sealed.

The sealer is to keep out water/mud/ salt etc.... from getting between the fender and the body. the early W123 only had a short plastic splash shield towards the rear of the fender to keep crap out of the lower part of the fender where it and the door meet.

The later W123, 82 - 85 have a full plastic splash shield, front to rear, so MB didn`t use the sealer between the fender and the body.

From the picture you posted, it looks like the damage to the fender is slight, and could be repaired w/o removing the fender. maybe it is tweeked more than the picture shows, I don`t know.

You will have to remove the bumper anyway, when you do, post a picture of what the total damage it.

If you are dead set on removing the fender, then you can do a DIY on how it is done and post some pictures for the archives.


Charlie
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there were three HP ratings on the OM616...

1) Not much power
2) Even less power
3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto

Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast.

80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff

We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works
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  #4  
Old 08-29-2011, 11:36 AM
zeke's Avatar
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Just got an estimate from a local shop that does lots of MB collision repair.

To fix it in place, with body filler and a respray of the fender, the estimate is $780. I would be responsible for the trim and light fixtures.

If I bring them a fender to strip and spray, the estimate is $383, and I would do all of the work - ungluing my fender installing the replacement.

Seems like fixing it in place is the way to go, they assure me they can get it resculpted.

Also, they pointed out that the cracks were due to body filler that had been used to repair the fender previously. It had been repainted well, but had been repaired before.
__________________

Current Mercedes
1979 maple yellow 240D 4-speed


Gone and fondly remembered:
1980 orient red 240D 4-speed

Gone and NOT fondly remembered:
1982 Chna Blue 300TD

Other car in the stable:
2013 VW Jetta Sportwagen TDI / 6-speed MT
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  #5  
Old 08-29-2011, 01:36 PM
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Location: Out in the Boonies of Hot, Dry, Dusty, Windy Nevada
Posts: 9,680
The majority of the cost is labor. what is the going rate? $75 to $100 a hr?

Charlie
__________________
there were three HP ratings on the OM616...

1) Not much power
2) Even less power
3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto

Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast.

80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff

We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works
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  #6  
Old 08-29-2011, 08:50 PM
Yak Yak is offline
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Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: San Antonio, TX
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zeke View Post
Just got an estimate from a local shop that does lots of MB collision repair.

To fix it in place, with body filler and a respray of the fender, the estimate is $780. I would be responsible for the trim and light fixtures.

If I bring them a fender to strip and spray, the estimate is $383, and I would do all of the work - ungluing my fender installing the replacement.

Seems like fixing it in place is the way to go, they assure me they can get it resculpted.

Also, they pointed out that the cracks were due to body filler that had been used to repair the fender previously. It had been repainted well, but had been repaired before.
Call me skeptical, but a repair on top of an old repair? I'd at least see about sourcing an intact fender from PNP. It'd be cheaper and probably give better results.

DG has pics of the post-82 removal.

Heck, just leave it in the sun tomorrow and the ambient heat will melt the sealant.

I can e-mail you the FSM section on fender removal. It looks like the key tools would be a torch and a linoleum knife. I guess the glue is on the top seam, so it should be accessible.
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