Air Cleaner Bracket ...FIXED FOREVER!!! DIY - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

JerryBro · #1 08-31-2011, 08:24 PM

:rant on
IMHO the whole thing is a p*** poor design. Take a something the mass of an air cleaner, mount it with rubber to poorly braced diving board, then put it on top (end) of an assembly that shakes a lot. With all the things on these cars that are over-engineered, why this exists is a mystery to me. I understand there is a way to go to a separate assembly off engine if an oil separator from a 240 is used, but I've never looked into it.
:rant off

boneheaddoctor · #2 08-31-2011, 08:49 PM

If you check and replace the isolators if any break at each oil change....you will have few problems. Only takes a moment to check. They are there because that engine shakes like hell. Let your motor mounts collapse and let one of the engine shocks pull out and wedge and see the dust come from the cracks in your dash as your gauges vibrate so violently they blur. Yeah....I had that happen to me the year I got it.

cousindave76 · #3 08-31-2011, 11:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JerryBro

:rant on
IMHO the whole thing is a p*** poor design. Take a something the mass of an air cleaner, mount it with rubber to poorly braced diving board, then put it on top (end) of an assembly that shakes a lot. With all the things on these cars that are over-engineered, why this exists is a mystery to me. I understand there is a way to go to a separate assembly off engine if an oil separator from a 240 is used, but I've never looked into it.
:rant off

I feel you JerryBro. I spent much time cursing the design.

Off engine air cleaner would have to have some sort of ducting going to the turbo. And since the two would move independently of each other, your air cleaner will no longer need repairs, but the ducting would. As a conversion, you can do the K&N filter on the end of the turbo and eliminate the air cleaner entirely, and install an independent oil separator as you mentioned. You will hear the whiz of the turbo when accelerating which is kinda fun, but you also get an overall increase of sound from the intake that can be heard in the cabin while cruising down the road(not so fun).

In the end, it's kind of a pick-your-poison situation.

boneheaddoctor · #4 09-01-2011, 08:33 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cousindave76

I feel you JerryBro. I spent much time cursing the design.

Off engine air cleaner would have to have some sort of ducting going to the turbo. And since the two would move independently of each other, your air cleaner will no longer need repairs, but the ducting would. As a conversion, you can do the K&N filter on the end of the turbo and eliminate the air cleaner entirely, and install an independent oil separator as you mentioned. You will hear the whiz of the turbo when accelerating which is kinda fun, but you also get an overall increase of sound from the intake that can be heard in the cabin while cruising down the road(not so fun).

In the end, it's kind of a pick-your-poison situation.

THe problem with doing that (eliminating the whole K&N quality part of the argument) is that you would be sucking hot air from behind the radiator...vs cool air from the front of the car. Doing so raises intake air temps....reduces air density and that increases EGT's and reduces power.

I always preffer to draw air from outside the engine bay and the heat in it. But high enough above the road to eliminate the possibility of hydrolocking the engine if you hit standing water on a rainy day.

The stock air filter setup does exactly that.....

funola · #5 09-01-2011, 09:59 AM

I used to hear the air cleaner vibrate (metal to metal) when I start and shut the engine off. I replaced the 3 rubber mounts with new ones and it did the same thing! This post just made me realize that I do not have the air cleaner vibration anymore! The reason must be that my engine is running better than ever. It starts and shuts off instantly and is smooth without shakes. I still have the old damper bolt (not gold). I have slowly gotten the engine to run better and better with the following items done over a period of a year or so: Getting rid of air in the fuel system (no bubbles- even the smallest ones), adjusted internal IP base pressure to 25 pi with my adjustable fuel pressure relief valve, timely valve adjustments, and Italian tune ups.

boneheaddoctor · #6 09-01-2011, 10:13 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by funola

I used to hear the air cleaner vibrate (metal to metal) when I start and shut the engine off. I replaced the 3 rubber mounts with new ones and it did the same thing! This post just made me realize that I do not have the air cleaner vibration anymore! The reason must be that my engine is running better than ever. It starts and shuts off instantly and is smooth without shakes. I still have the old damper bolt (not gold). I have slowly gotten the engine to run better and better with the following items done over a period of a year or so: Getting rid of air in the fuel system (no bubbles- even the smallest ones), adjusted internal IP base pressure to 25 pi with my adjustable fuel pressure relief valve, timely valve adjustments, and Italian tune ups.

Something commonly overlooked...

Those little heat shields need to be on those buffers or they will fail quickly.

A lot of cars have them missing because a PO figured they weren't needed.

If you don't have any....you need to get some.

charmalu · #7 09-01-2011, 11:26 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by boneheaddoctor

THe problem with doing that (eliminating the whole K&N quality part of the argument) is that you would be sucking hot air from behind the radiator...vs cool air from the front of the car. Doing so raises intake air temps....reduces air density and that increases EGT's and reduces power.

I always preffer to draw air from outside the engine bay and the heat in it. But high enough above the road to eliminate the possibility of hydrolocking the engine if you hit standing water on a rainy day.

The stock air filter setup does exactly that.....

I don`t want to get in a war on what`s the best filter set up to use of the location thing.

seems like a year or so back, someone took some temp readings in the engine bay in different areas with the car moving. and while moving there is plenty of cold air. when the car is in slow moving traffic and or sitting still, the temp will increase some. so while moving there shouldn`t be a problem.

With the exposed air filter (K&N or what ever style used) it will pick up a little more dust/dirt etc with the air swirling around in the engine bay.

Now with that said (and I don`t need any bad nastys thrown back at me) I have a K&N filter, 9" long and 15" around the circumfernce. It sits behind the R/F head light. I made a cover from some Batting (the ladies that sew will know what this is, ask your wives) cut it to fit like a sleeve. spray on the special oil, this is a prefilter. what I notice with a filter in this location, is the amount of black oil substence that builds on the front, in the area between the headlight and radiator. there is plenty of gaps where the air will come through.

This is probably the soot, oil blow by etc.... from other cars????

The factory air filter on top of the engine, is sitting on top of the turbo, = heat. now I don`t know if that causes a source of heat inside of the filter housing or not, plus the filter is in the highest point in the engine bay. although the air source is the horn over the R/F headlight, giving you the cold "Ram Air". also the same sootty oily substence is being sucked in, but as it swirls around in the stock filter housing, it is distributed in a larger area and not as noticeable.

I would mount the Cali air filter housing back into the area behind the R/F headlight. but with changing the cali intake manifolds and installing the AL-129-X 115amp alternator, it changes some what how to mount things back up.

Charlie

boneheaddoctor · #8 09-01-2011, 12:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by charmalu

I don`t want to get in a war on what`s the best filter set up to use of the location thing.

seems like a year or so back, someone took some temp readings in the engine bay in different areas with the car moving. and while moving there is plenty of cold air. when the car is in slow moving traffic and or sitting still, the temp will increase some. so while moving there shouldn`t be a problem.

With the exposed air filter (K&N or what ever style used) it will pick up a little more dust/dirt etc with the air swirling around in the engine bay.

Now with that said (and I don`t need any bad nastys thrown back at me) I have a K&N filter, 9" long and 15" around the circumfernce. It sits behind the R/F head light. I made a cover from some Batting (the ladies that sew will know what this is, ask your wives) cut it to fit like a sleeve. spray on the special oil, this is a prefilter. what I notice with a filter in this location, is the amount of black oil substence that builds on the front, in the area between the headlight and radiator. there is plenty of gaps where the air will come through.

This is probably the soot, oil blow by etc.... from other cars????

The factory air filter on top of the engine, is sitting on top of the turbo, = heat. now I don`t know if that causes a source of heat inside of the filter housing or not, plus the filter is in the highest point in the engine bay. although the air source is the horn over the R/F headlight, giving you the cold "Ram Air". also the same sootty oily substence is being sucked in, but as it swirls around in the stock filter housing, it is distributed in a larger area and not as noticeable.

I would mount the Cali air filter housing back into the area behind the R/F headlight. but with changing the cali intake manifolds and installing the AL-129-X 115amp alternator, it changes some what how to mount things back up.

Charlie

I threw the Comment about "disregarding the K&N filter issues" for a reason.....because its been the topic of long drawn out arguments in the past....nothing new could be said on it.

Those Cali filters are pricey beasts, and fairly rare.....there are other older ones as well that could be pressed into service.....like the W108 280SE 2.8's . Still not cheap but an option, just NOT on a W116 for those with one. They have a battery there.

cousindave76 · #9 09-01-2011, 02:58 PM

I too did not mean to start a K&N pillow fight

. I only mentioned it as it's the only conversion I personal know of for deleting the air cleaner housing. I do not posses the analytical equipment necessary to study positive and negative affects of the conversion. I personal like running with the stock filter box as per design. I also like the idea of a little bit of that burped up black gold going back through the intake of the turbo which does not happen with the K&N filter kit. I have nothing to support which is better, it's just preference.

The Gears · #10 09-01-2011, 07:51 PM

I rebuilt my air cleaner mounts using steel springs.
I cut away the rubber and wire buffed smooth and clean the flat pieces with the thread.
Cut a 3/4" diameter by 3" long spring in three. The wire gauge is a little less than 1/8".
Grind the ends sort of flat and silver solder (braze) between two plates.
I did this on my 123 in 2008 and still in there wiggling back and forth.
I will do the same in the 126 when the rubber set let go.