Thats my gauge, the in line snubber was broken at that point, but it still delivered accurate fuel pressure, but would pulse with the lift pump.

It was an expensive isspro fuel gauge, I replaced the fluid filled snubber and it worked properly. Ironically, it was more accurate when broken, as it would show actual fuel pulses, not just an evened out flow.

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This post brought to you by Carl's Jr.

IMO cost is critical in the current economy.

I get electric fuel pumps at the salvage yard for $14.00 each.
This allows me to buy several each time = spares to keep in the trunk and on the shelf.

Changing one of these = five minutes work.

Then stop making a habit of suggesting junk parts for a system you don't understand.

And that is the problem here. You know next to nothing about fuel systems (even to the point of suggesting a lawn mower has a fuel regulator) yet you're making suggestions on how to modify them.

Sorry, no, you've got the situation reversed in your head.

Seriously? Until an hour ago you didn't even know there was a pressure regulator in the fuel system! You have no ground to evaluate the application of anything here.

Hello? You don't even know what the specs need to be! On top of that, whunter already pointed out the cheap availability of the pumps in scrapyards. Why would anyone here consider buying one new?
A used high output pump is far better than a new piece of junk that barely meets the minimum needs of the fuel system.

ISSPRO ≠ Expensive. They are good gauges for casual automotive use, but they are not accurate instruments.
Got that dyno sheet I asked for?

So technically you were wrong in your previous post then? Just saying... you said that is how all regulators work...

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'98 E300 Turbo "Juliette"
'85 Federal 300TD

No. Lawn mowers do not have a regulator, they work by gravity, and the N14 has a throttling orifice, not a regulator.
Take some time off from replying to this post and read up on the topic.

If it's such a pile of garbage why did you choose to use an air filter from a 6.5 on your mercedes ?

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'98 E300 Turbo "Juliette"
'85 Federal 300TD

I didn't. The 6.5L uses a flat panel filter.
The filter I use was applied to the 8.1L big block gas engine.

Orly?

Hmm... I guess Summit is wrong... and several other sites.. maybe you should call them and let them know?

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/FRM-CA8038/Application/?query=Liter|6.5|Make|CHEVROLET

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'98 E300 Turbo "Juliette"
'85 Federal 300TD

I've used a "clacker type" Advance Auto generic pump on both a 616 and a 617, completely reliable if you get the higher pressure one (aka not the 4 psi one).

Try using a reputable parts source instead of a faux-performance site.

Ahem....

https://napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx?A=PSW26440_0242491591&An=599001+101998+50014+2014027

http://oreillyauto.com/site/c/search/Air+Filter/02512/C0023.oap?make=Chevrolet&model=C2500&year=1998&vi=1303423

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/parts/1998-Chevrolet-C2500-3-4ton-P-U-2WD/Air-Filter/_/N-ja7qxZ8gcsh?filterByKeyWord=air+filter&fromString=search


I suppose these are faux-auto parts stores and not what you would consider reputable.

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'98 E300 Turbo "Juliette"
'85 Federal 300TD

Never seen a carbureted engine? Pumps are dead headed all the time.

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1982 300D Turbo ... The Tank
1972 GMC Sprint (El Camino)
SBC Vortech Supercharged.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G73Q8cSpEbs
2009 Buell 1125CR ... 146 American made horse power on two wheels
1988 Jeep XJ

Guys, a quick question as I am still learning a bit about my 83 300D with the OM 617. I always thought the injection pump was the only fuel pump on the car. Is it? Or am I wrong and their is another fuel pump on the car called the "lift pump"

Am I basically right in assuming the OP had his injection pump go bad and wants to replace it with an electric pump?

If the OM 617 has an additional pump besides the injection pump, please let me know so I can search for info on it. I'm thinking I might want to install an electric pump for peace of mind.

Glenn

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2012 Mercedes ML350 Bluetec 91K (hers)
2005 Corvette 55K (fun car)
2002 VW Jetta TDI 231K (mine)
1998 Volvo S70 T5 Turbo 196K (kids)
1994 Ford F150 4WD 249K (firewood hauler)
1983 Mercedes 300D 376K (diesel commuter)

Those are very low pressure and the pumps are designed to be dead headed. There are no automotive electric fuel pumps designed to be deadheaded, they would quickly overheat and cause vapor lock in gasoline systems (same as running a fuel tank near empty).

The fuel pump is mounted to the side of the injection pump.

No. The fuel pump is extremely simple and reliable. An electric pump does the same function while adding complication and several more potential points of failure.

On the Right side sort of in the middle of your Fuel Injection Pump you have a Fuel Supply/Lift Pump Bolted on to it.
On your Year and Model there is also a Hand Primer Pump screwed into the Fuel Supply/Lift Pump.

So there is a Fuel Injection Pump (supplies high pressure Fuel to the Injectors), a Fuel Supply/Lift Pump (supplies the Fuel Injection Pump with a large volume of Fuel at a lower pressure compared to the amount that is Injected into the Injectors. Most of which runs through the Fuel Injection Pump and out the Pressure Relief/Overflow Valve to cool the Fuel Injection Pump)and a Hand Primer Pump (used for priming the Fuel Injection pump and hopefully getting all of the air out of it).

Blue Arrow = Fuel Supply/Lift Pump
Yellow Arrow = an old style Aluminum bodied Hand Primer. The newer style Hand Primers go in the same spot but are covered with Black Rubber and looks Different.

You need to learn how to Bleed the Air out of your Fuel System. It is a common occurance for a new owner to change the Spin-on Secondary Fuel Filter and not be able to start the Engine even after they have used the Hand Primer. I would do some reading of the below links.

DIY Repair Links
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/forumdisplay.php?f=82
http://www.peachparts.com/Wikka/DoItYourSelf

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel