In preparation for the guide rod mount job that I'll be doing next week, I surveyed the the control arm and spring assembly and noticed a 2 stub spring pad at the top of the front spring. It got me to thinking of putting a 1 stub pad on the front springs and a 3 stub pad on the back springs to even the ride height out a little. When I go online to look for spring pads or shims, they are only listed as rears. Does anyone have experience with this? Thanks

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'81 300SD

If the O.D. of the springs are same, then the shoe fits. That's a lot of spring compressing to move those things around.

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Cheers!
Scott McPhee

1987 300D

Front springs and rear springs are of different diameters - the rubber shims are therefore different diameters and are not interchangeable from front to rear or from rear to front... if that is what you mean.

You can of course remove a front shim and put in a different shim that is designed to fit in the front.

If you are removing the front springs make sure you have a suitable spring compressor that is fitted inside the spring. Do not attempt to remove the front spring with a standard external auto spring compressors they are not long enough...

You might be able to get away with using longer truck external ones but there isn't really enough room around the spring to do this safely in my opinion - even though others have reported that it is possible.

If you can't get hold of the klann internal spring compressor you will probably have to enlarge the hole at the top of the spring in the chassis to get the cheaper internal spring compressors in and out.

Another thing that may interest you is that if you change the ride height you will change the steering geometry (slightly) you might want to consider having an alignment done after you've finished your work.

Officially - meaning to be in accordance with the FSM - the reason for changing the rubber shims is to set the ride height correctly. If you are interested in reading some more about this I've written some information here:-

How I adjusted the toe in / out, camber and caster on my W123 300D

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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!

Thanks Army, that's the info I needed. I have the correct spring compressor, and considering what you said about the front end geometry, I might just replace the rear pads. The car actually has a pretty even height from front to back, but I haul my drums in the trunk and am probably wearing out the rear end. I figured while I have this compressor I'd just get a jump on some inevitable adjustments.

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'81 300SD

Here in Holland where loads of people convert their petrol engine vehicles to run on LPG they sell springs that are designed to attach to the suspension in addition to the original system to help with the extra weight of the LPG tank. See for example

http://link.marktplaats.nl/477252700

Search term "hulpveren"

You might also want to look out for "taxiveren" extra heavy duty springs for taxis

http://link.marktplaats.nl/452214934

EDIT:-

I forgot to say the rear suspension ride height is also influenced by the condition of the subframe and trailing arm rubbers and the differential mount.

Problem now is we are quickly adding jobs to your list...

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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!

How about an SLS conversion? Locate a TD head with SLS pump and a 500/560SEL for the hydraulics. Grab the reclining rear bench and seat heaters while you're at it

Sixto
87 300D

Isn't there a trick to use a W124 (<= ?????) SLS pump or something like that and run it off a V belt if you don't have the right head?

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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!

I did the math at one point, and the maximum change in geometry by changing pads (assuming you started with the highest pads in front, lowest in back and went to the lowest in front, highest in back) was four tenths of a degree if I remember right. That was on a 126, so with the shorter wheelbase, it might bump up to half a degree, maybe... Not a big change, and since theses aren't exactly sporty quick steering vehicles, its in a direction you have room to move. I'd do an alignment anyway though, whether you change the pads out or not.

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'82 300SD - Somewhere over 220k - Becoming reliable...

LOL, I wish I was half as ambitious as you Sixto. Only on this forum could a spring pad inquiry turn up a cylinder head swap suggestion.

Thanks for all of the input from everyone. I think that the simplest, most economical place to start will be with Bilstein HD's and a new diff mount. I've checked the subframe mounts and they are soft, with out cracks. The PO did such a nice job of maintaining the car, that I wouldn't be surprised if those had been replaced.

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'81 300SD