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  #31  
Old 08-30-2011, 02:20 PM
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Well, I am not sure what the threshold is for the coolant pressure, but it sounds like we found your problem!

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  #32  
Old 08-30-2011, 02:30 PM
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Since you're going to change coolant, remove the radiator for better access to cleaning the core and the AC condenser. At least run thumb-over-garden-hose pressure in the reverse direction of airflow.

The reservoir leak is a mixed bag. The system should be tight to ~20 psi which means it's underperforming at 15 psi. On the other hand, it might be masking combustion pressure leaking into the cooling system.

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  #33  
Old 08-30-2011, 02:32 PM
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Winner. But keep going at it. Your 603 wants to run cool.
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  #34  
Old 09-07-2011, 05:23 AM
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Well, after a citric acid flush and new expansion tank, I am still getting high temps. The gauge does sit right above 80 C on downhills, where it hasn't before. But the car still cannot maintain it's temp under load.

What's next? New radiator?
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  #35  
Old 09-07-2011, 08:42 AM
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A new radiator certainly cant hurt. Its a bit pricey however. Stupid question, is your overboost valve bypassed by any chance?
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  #36  
Old 09-07-2011, 10:18 AM
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Yes, it was bypassed recently. It was running hot before that though.
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  #37  
Old 09-07-2011, 10:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jason SVO View Post
Yes, it was bypassed recently. It was running hot before that though.
Why was it bypassed? Have you checked boost pressure?
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  #38  
Old 09-07-2011, 11:37 AM
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Boost Pressure (low) = Higher Temps Under Load?

Hey Winmut....are you thinking that low boost may actually result in higher temps under load? I've pondered that for a long time...and there are several turbo to "joints seals" where boost could be lost not to mention a crudded up waste gate.

Your thoughts please!!!
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  #39  
Old 09-07-2011, 11:51 AM
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No I was thinking overboost. Low boost would only incur high temps if the turbo was not spinning freely.
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  #40  
Old 09-07-2011, 05:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jason SVO View Post
Well, after a citric acid flush and new expansion tank, I am still getting high temps. The gauge does sit right above 80 C on downhills, where it hasn't before. But the car still cannot maintain it's temp under load.

What's next? New radiator?


You mentioned that at 15psi your expansion tank/coolant reservoir cap is letting coolant out right? You also mentioned you replaced the coolant reservoir but not it's cap. I though the cap was responsible for pressure regulation?!! As a side note, I don't think that's your main problem however. Best of luck on this issue!


Josh




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  #41  
Old 09-08-2011, 12:18 AM
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I have a new cap. It really seems like the car cannot maintain temperature or cool itself down when needed. I changed the thermostat and saw no improvement, so I'm ruling that out. Did a flush, and water seemed to flow through the radiator ok. I'm thinking water pump or radiator. Folks have told me the water pump either works or doesn't.
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  #42  
Old 09-08-2011, 04:17 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jason SVO View Post
Folks have told me the water pump either works or doesn't.
Thats the gist of it.

Does turning on the heat bring the temps down?
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  #43  
Old 09-08-2011, 03:35 PM
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Turning the heat on will bring down temps 5-10 *C. Radiator temps range from 88* at the top and 68* near the bottom
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  #44  
Old 09-08-2011, 03:39 PM
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Does the upper hose feel like coolant is open when the gauge indicates the thermostat should be open?

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  #45  
Old 09-09-2011, 02:12 PM
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What would that feel like? I feel a vibration but that is likely from the engine.
Is it easy to pull off and inspect the water pump?

Jason

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